Beananimal tank plumbing?

Reefahholic

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Emergency Standpipe
Full Siphon Standpipe
Open Channel Standpipe

I'm guessing this does not include the return. Is that the only thing that's missing? I noticed that reefsavvy builds bean's overflows, but he give you an option to pick GPH boxes. My question is, how do you know how big the box has to be to get a GPH flow through your system? I noticed his has the overflow extending from one end of the tank to the other. How come Felix is not doing it that way?

cc4e8460.jpg
 
Reefsavvy will design any overflow you want. I was talking to Felix today about the BeanAnimal system. I believe that you don't necessarily have to have the full long overflow.

Reefsavvy doesn't force you to use the glass-holes overflows, you can use any one you want, and get it drilled any way you like. Just saying.
 
Ohh yeah, he's real good guy. He tells you up front that specifications on build are up to you. I've just saw some tanks he did and was wondering why they didn't do it exactly like beans if that is the best way for his overflow? Or thought maybe they weren't picky and told Felix, "just make it a bean overflow", and he did it half way across- (middle of tank only.)
 
A coast to coast overflow without teeth will give you the best surface skimming. Some don't like to go coast to coast, so they opt for an overflow that works best for them.
 
Looking at the pic above, what is missing from being a fully functional system?

I mean, is that just the over flow alone? You need a return right.
 
Yes that is just the overflow. You will still need to run a return. Either drill a hole for the return, or run a pipe over the side.
 
Yes that is just the overflow. You will still need to run a return. Either drill a hole for the return, or run a pipe over the side.


ok thanks....do any of you guys know how to measure GPH on a 120-125/G tank...I know you want so much water cycling through your system every hour. What's average for most people and how do you figure it out?
 
Most try for 3-5x total volume hourly thru the sump. Some go higher flow, but most don't go under 3x. With the bean setup, your only limited by your pump choice and length of your siphon drain. Longer drain=more gph. Going coast to coast will also offer a higher flow with less noise. If you run high flow and you don't have a long overflow box, the water will rush over and you will have noise.
 
can you ID the pipes from left to right?

Sure glad to help.

The three that go over the tank are the returns. There are 5 in the return manifold, the other two aren't being used at this time. One will be for a reactor if/when I need it. The other is for a 4th return line to tank or maybe to feed a frag tank.

Starting with the left pipe on the overflows

1st pipe is the emergency( if the 2nd and 3rd pipe plug), it has an upturned 90* elbow that is just below the edge of the tank.

2nd pipe is the main return, it has a 90* elbow turned down. The valve is used to adjust the flow to its maxium while still being quiet.

3rd pipe is the backup for the middle, it has an air tube that goes to the overflow box, about an inch below the rim. IF the 2nd pipe becomes plugged the water will raise up and cover the air tube causing that drain to go into full shiphon.

Hope this helps, I can take better pics of inside the overflow tomorrow if ya want.
 
Sure glad to help.

The three that go over the tank are the returns. There are 5 in the return manifold, the other two aren't being used at this time. One will be for a reactor if/when I need it. The other is for a 4th return line to tank or maybe to feed a frag tank.

Starting with the left pipe on the overflows

1st pipe is the emergency( if the 2nd and 3rd pipe plug), it has an upturned 90* elbow that is just below the edge of the tank.

2nd pipe is the main return, it has a 90* elbow turned down. The valve is used to adjust the flow to its maxium while still being quiet.

3rd pipe is the backup for the middle, it has an air tube that goes to the overflow box, about an inch below the rim. IF the 2nd pipe becomes plugged the water will raise up and cover the air tube causing that drain to go into full shiphon.

Hope this helps, I can take better pics of inside the overflow tomorrow if ya want.

thanks man, that really helped. still trying to get this all figured out. I do a ton of reasearch every day I can and still a little confusing because everybody has their own style or personal preference. im guessing you have a lot of returns to reduce the volume of water going to each pipe to cut down on noise? Is it better to spread out your returns around the tank for flow or is that just how most people do it?
 
I have the returns spread out help with flows in different areas of the tank. It helps me not to have a bunch of power heads and eliminate dead spots. Since the pipes are below the water line they are quiet. Also all returns have two 1/4 holes 1" below the waterline for anti-siphon.
 
ok...got cha..

does the "anti-siphon" holes really work well...

do a lot of people do it that way...haven't heard about that yet?

tried to look at your post on the 150/g but the photobucket pictures were removed. i guess it was because you deleted them off photobucket. are you enjoying the 150/g or do you want bigger now..-smiles-
 
very cool...you did a lot of work, but the tank looks great!

i like how you used your old tank for your sump....it's huge...lots of room!

corals are looking awesome!


yeah, I did not know that about the returns....seems like most put their returns on the top of the water line. I guess they are trying to avoid the whole siphon downfall. however, the plus is that you are providing more flow around the tank. I plan on going with LED'S to avoid having to buy a lot of fans...is it nessessary to have more than one if you have a good GPH overflow that generates a lot of flow through your returns, and you have a strong return pump? are the fans mostly used to eliminate dead areas or just to blow "flow" on your corals? Im still a little confused about that part..
 
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