joejoe1055
New member
what is the best way to set QT tank?
i mean best setup and equipment?
i mean best setup and equipment?
best QT setup?
- Thread starter joejoe1055
- Start date
NicoleC
New member
10g tank
small titanium heater with thermostat
HOB filter, with sponges you fit over the intake for dealing with weak or very small fish
basic low wattage light (for fish), more light as appropriate for corals
a few plastic plants and some pieces of PVC tubes, elbows, etc. (hiding places for fish, PVC pieces can be used to rest corals upright)
Plus have on hand:
Amquel+ Plus
basic water test kit
SeaChem Ammonia Alert badge
good quality activated carbon
air pump
airline
backwash valve
air stones
Furan-2 (broad spectrum antibiotic) OR Maracyn (gram + bacteria) and Maracyn 2 (gram - bacteria)
Praziquantel (internal parasites)
iodine (for corals only)
BBS eggs and mesh strainer
small titanium heater with thermostat
HOB filter, with sponges you fit over the intake for dealing with weak or very small fish
basic low wattage light (for fish), more light as appropriate for corals
a few plastic plants and some pieces of PVC tubes, elbows, etc. (hiding places for fish, PVC pieces can be used to rest corals upright)
Plus have on hand:
Amquel+ Plus
basic water test kit
SeaChem Ammonia Alert badge
good quality activated carbon
air pump
airline
backwash valve
air stones
Furan-2 (broad spectrum antibiotic) OR Maracyn (gram + bacteria) and Maracyn 2 (gram - bacteria)
Praziquantel (internal parasites)
iodine (for corals only)
BBS eggs and mesh strainer
Tomoko Schum
New member
If you have a good source of macroalgae (like in a refugium on the main tank), I'd go ahead and use some live macroalgae. If algae get affected by a medication that you use to treat fish, you can always replace them with a fresh stock. I think macroalgae like chaetomorpha can help keep the water quality in a good shape consuming ammonia along with nitrate (they prefer ammonia over nitrate up to a certain point.)
Tomoko
Tomoko
NicoleC
New member
My only concern with using live alga from a display tank is that they can be harboring parasites and diseases on their surface and in water clinging to it.
Granted, the animals will have to deal with those new parasites or diseases when they go in the display, but I prefer to get a fish healthy before stressing it with something new to fight off. They have already been bombarded with new diseases and parasites in the transport and wholesale process.
But I agree that there are water quality and, for some species, psychological benefits to having live algae in the environment. (Especially for herbivores.) So while I personally would probably not do it, it goes to show there is more than one way to skin a fish.
However - don't ever return the algae from QT to a display tank, or you might introduce diseases to the display and negate one of the most important reasons to QT. You could QT the algae as well before putting it in the display, but it doesn't seem worth it,
Granted, the animals will have to deal with those new parasites or diseases when they go in the display, but I prefer to get a fish healthy before stressing it with something new to fight off. They have already been bombarded with new diseases and parasites in the transport and wholesale process.
But I agree that there are water quality and, for some species, psychological benefits to having live algae in the environment. (Especially for herbivores.) So while I personally would probably not do it, it goes to show there is more than one way to skin a fish.
However - don't ever return the algae from QT to a display tank, or you might introduce diseases to the display and negate one of the most important reasons to QT. You could QT the algae as well before putting it in the display, but it doesn't seem worth it,
