Best way to patch a rubbermaid stock tank

jksites

New member
What is the best way to patch a rubbermaid stock tank?

I would like to patch the 1/2" hole I drilled for a top off float valve and move it up higher so my sump will hold an greater volume of water.

I have some marine epoxy that I bought from Home Depot that says its good for plumbing repairs, etc... Water I do needs to be highly reliable so I don't flood the basement or dump a large amount of fresh water if it leaks and the float valve drops...

Maybe a leaving the 1/2" bulkhead in and placing a John Guess quick fit ball valve would be the best... Now that i thought about the possibility of flooding fresh water...

Anyway, I'm sure someone else has plugged a hole in one of these tanks before.

Thanks!
 
Not much sticks to those things. You could try a large diameter nylon bolt and nut with a washer on each side. Make a nice ball of epoxy putty and put it between the washers when tightening the nut to squish it into the opening very well. Or goop up the opening with silicone and then sandwich it with nylon washers and tighten the nut/bolt.

You could also try drilling the hole larger for a small uniseal and then insert a piece of capped off pvc into the uniseal. I have bought them as small as 1/4" tubing sized.

Just a couple ideas that popped into my head. Hope that helps.
-- Kevin
 
I did the opposite, and moved my float valve down to give me more sump capacity when the pumps went off. What I did was just leave the old float valve in the hole and added a new one in the new position. Sump has filled up several times when I shut stuff off, and it has never leaked. Not sure if that would work for you?

If you leave the bulkhead in, just cap it off with a 1/2" plug from Lowes, or HD.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14151697#post14151697 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ken Good
I would just leave the bulk head and insert a short piece of capped pvc.

Ken

I have had some luck patching one with acrylic and a plastic weld solvent. However, using the bulk head and a capped piece of PVC or a plug is probably the best idea, especially if its below the water line.
 
use a rubber plug from a local hardware store. it's like a rubber stopper with a screw in it. as you tighten the screw it seals the whole. might be $2
 
"use a rubber plug from a local hardware store. it's like a rubber stopper with a screw in it. as you tighten the screw it seals the whole. might be $2"

Absolutely brilliant idea! Those plugs are made for boats... so they definitely will hold what little pressure is in a stock tank. I had been thinking of doing the same thing, and wasn't sure how to best seal it. I think that's the way to go.
 
The Rubber plug may have one drawback.
When you tighten the screw it causes the rubber to expand applying outward pressure on the surface it is in contact with.

Over time the stock tank material may expand and or crack due to this stress.

Personally I would use the Bulkhead and cap.

On a side note, I use a long thin piece of acrylic and mount my Float Valve to it.
I attach a Wood Block to the rim of the Stock Tank that extends out about 4 inches.
Then I attach the top of the acrylic to the block in such a way that the float valve is free to move. Make sure you have enough clearance. Mounting parallel to the stock tank wall works well.

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Where: >--- = Float Valve, [] = Wood Block, | = Acrylic

This has a distinct advantage. If I ever want to raise or lower the level in my sump, I can remove the screws holding the acrylic, drill new holes in the acrylic, screw it back into the block at the new height.

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I know some float valves have adjustments, but they are usually limited to a few inches or less.

The main benefit to this method is the lack of a hole in the side of the stock tank.
 
I use my plastic welder and weld them shut and also fix broken ones but the rods for my gun arent cheap anymore to do many.
Stainless bolt and rubber washers would do it.
 
I'd use a new sump if you don't do the capped pipe. Either one would work, although one is much cheaper than the other.
 
I would just cap it off drill the new hole and put in a new bulkhead or uniseal in and forget about it. if you use a threaded plug or cap you could always go back to the old hole if need. I this hobby we never do that:)
 
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