I need to pick up some door handles and magnets, and rework the doors slightly. The left two and the right two swing open. The two center boards are not move able. This gives me about 16" on each side of the sump to work. Not the BEST amount of space but not sure else how to make the doors work unless I rip the boards in half and form them on a curved piece of wood and make the entire front panel removable??
There was another thread on a different forum building a stand for this wave tank. There he got away with not having the center bar by reinforcing the stand with 2x4s and making curved doors out of multiple boards.
I also have a 95g wave tank with the original factory stand, which looks much like what you've built. But after 7 years, the particle board (sic) the original stand was made of (including doors) is showing all sorts of water damage and the doors no longer close properly. I'm following your thread as I will soon be rebuilding mine and I already see having same issues (curved doors, center front bar, etc). It is really a major pain accessing the sump with the center 20'' panel in front of it.
I made the center brace only 16" to allow some more room. I do agree it will be tight - I have an oceanic sump in it that is long enough that I can get into it okay - but if I had to pull it out would be an issue - Also - on a side note - this is not part of my reef system -My reef is plumbed into the basement sump system and if I ever wanted to convert this to Salt - I would just need the drain line and return line from the basement - Check out the rest of my build on my SW tank - I built my sump room with expansion in mind. For now this will be to replace a 54 corner I have with Africans. So for the sump I dont need skimmer etc - I have some fish that have just out grown the corner tank that I have had 10 + years they need some room to swim!
I will have a filter sock on left side - bio balls in the left with a heater and then on the other side of the bubble trap a return pump. I am however hard plumbing it with a Wye and ball valve as I will run a carbon reactor and a UV light below the tank.
One thing I also built in was a small 20" light so I have some light to work when in the sump area.
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