Canister kept in the dark?

99Trev

New member
Got an off the wall question. I have a canister filter, and the canister is made of "clear" plastic. The canister sits inside of the cabinet, and is in the dark all the time. I am wondering if I should put some type of lighting to it? Possibly have it on the same timer as my "moon" lights?

I have read some posts that people have their lightings on their fuge/sump on opposite timers.

I have noticed that about an hour after my "day" lights turn off, that most of my corals close up (even the ones that are in the "moon" light). My frogspawn, and most of my polyps would stay open all the time (day and night).

Any comments???
 
I think you would want to keep it in the dark so that algae wont grow within it. Im not experienced with canister filters but I think you want more bacterial growth in it rather than algae. The idea with putting the sump lights on an opposite timer is to keep ph up during the night when the lights go out in your display tank, while providing light to the fuge inhabitants.

-if im wrong, someone please let me know. that would help two of us lol
 
I think you would want to keep it in the dark so that algae wont grow within it. Im not experienced with canister filters but I think you want more bacterial growth in it rather than algae. The idea with putting the sump lights on an opposite timer is to keep ph up during the night when the lights go out in your display tank, while providing light to the fuge inhabitants.

-if im wrong, someone please let me know. that would help two of us lol

Sounds about right to me :thumbsup:

I personally would slowly get away from the canister and move more toward the following for filtration and water movement :

Skimmer
Power heads
Sump/fuge
 
Sounds about right to me :thumbsup:

I personally would slowly get away from the canister and move more toward the following for filtration and water movement :

Skimmer
Power heads
Sump/fuge

Thanks for the feedback. I have a HOB skimmer, 3 power heads (two #3's and one #1). Also added in a 10 gallon fuge. The fuge sits above my DT, and overflows back into my DT. It is "supplied" by the return from the canister. The big reason I added in the fuge, is I would like to get a Mandarin, and wanted a place to "grow" pods etc.

I will work towards a sump, but due shape / size of my stand the biggest size sump I could fit in would be 20 gallon (DT is 120). I would like to have a 50-60gal sump/fuge setup. I am trying to convince my wife to "give up" some closet space. I have her somewhat convinced but it has not happened yet. If that does happen, I would have room for a 100g tank (or 60 gal sump, and 40g "extra" for water change, mixing.... etc).
 
If you run reverse lighting schedule do it on your fuge. People have lights on their sump when it is being used as both a sump/fuge and they're growing some kinda macro algae in it. Ph tends to drop at night and having the reverse light schedule helps the drop not be so drastic. Lighting a canister filter will almost certainly grow unwanted algae. My fuge is right next to my skimmer and my skimmer will grow some on occasion. Its my curse for not having enough space.
 
If you run reverse lighting schedule do it on your fuge. People have lights on their sump when it is being used as both a sump/fuge and they're growing some kinda macro algae in it. Ph tends to drop at night and having the reverse light schedule helps the drop not be so drastic. Lighting a canister filter will almost certainly grow unwanted algae. My fuge is right next to my skimmer and my skimmer will grow some on occasion. Its my curse for not having enough space.

+1 but I run my fuge light 24/7
 
keep the canister in the dark.

PH goes down at night bc nothing is photosynthesising in the tank bc the lights are off. At night, fish and corals are respiring. Putting a light on just the canister will only light your canister up so you can see it. :) unless you put chateo or something in it, but the flow would be too fast for the chateo or algae.
 
keep the canister in the dark.

PH goes down at night bc nothing is photosynthesising in the tank bc the lights are off. At night, fish and corals are respiring. Putting a light on just the canister will only light your canister up so you can see it. :) unless you put chateo or something in it, but the flow would be too fast for the chateo or algae.
 
Thanks for the feedback!

My canister has the following in it (from the bottom up, and each basket has 2 layers in it)
basket 1
20ppi filter
30ppi filter

basket 2
5 bio balls
5 bio balls

basket 3
micro filtration
5 bio balls

basket 4
carbon
super micro filter

I do not remember the PPI for the micro or super micro filters. But if anyone has suggestions as to different things or different order, I am open to suggestions.

I have also wondered about adding more bio balls (or stars, or tubes, or???).
 
I have read about canister filters on various forums, and they are either loved or hated. Some say they are just a place to grow bacteria and do more harm than good. Others say that they are good, and help support the tank as long as maintenance is done.

I have thought about moving to a sump, but because of space limitations it may be a long way off. I have not figured out any way to get a sump under my tank. The stand has 4 doors on it, and each of them is only 11 1/2 inches wide. I have measured a lot of tanks, and the biggest tank I could get in would be 25 gallon. From what I have researched about sumps a 25 gallon sump on a 120gallon display would not be enough (minimum sump size should be 40% of the DT, and bigger is better). Some even suggest the sump be equal to or larger than the display. So I guess more research is needed.
 
We temporarily removed a brace to insert our 30 g sump. We used some kind of support, maybe a jack but I don't remember, to hold it up during the process. It's a pain in the neck to work on it, but I'm glad we did it.
 
I have read about canister filters on various forums, and they are either loved or hated. Some say they are just a place to grow bacteria and do more harm than good. Others say that they are good, and help support the tank as long as maintenance is done.

If it is working for you do not change it :)


I have thought about moving to a sump, but because of space limitations it may be a long way off. I have not figured out any way to get a sump under my tank. The stand has 4 doors on it, and each of them is only 11 1/2 inches wide. I have measured a lot of tanks, and the biggest tank I could get in would be 25 gallon. From what I have researched about sumps a 25 gallon sump on a 120gallon display would not be enough (minimum sump size should be 40% of the DT, and bigger is better). Some even suggest the sump be equal to or larger than the display. So I guess more research is needed.

I run a 40 gallon on my 180 becuase of space limits, I agree bigger is better but something is also better than nothing :rollface:
 
We temporarily removed a brace to insert our 30 g sump. We used some kind of support, maybe a jack but I don't remember, to hold it up during the process. It's a pain in the neck to work on it, but I'm glad we did it.

Removing the brace is what I had to do when I put the 55 gallon sump under my 125 and it worked well. I did this during the set-up as it would be extremely scary to do when the tank is full, props to you Sillygoose :hmm4:
 
We temporarily removed a brace to insert our 30 g sump. We used some kind of support, maybe a jack but I don't remember, to hold it up during the process. It's a pain in the neck to work on it, but I'm glad we did it.

I have seen some pictures and postings about removing part of the cabinets, but I am not quite that brave!!! Also I am not sure how about how to "cut" into the cabinet without the end result looking really bad.

On the opposite side of the wall that the tank is against is our master bedroom closet. I have talked with my wife about taking over part of it for a sump. It would involve putting a couple of holes through the wall (but I am thinking they would be somewhat small). She is coming around to the idea, other than it is "HER SIDE" of the closet and "my side" is smaller. So we will have to wait and see how that goes.

I have also thought about putting three 25 gallon tanks in, and drilling the sides of them to "chain" them all together. First tank would be the "inlet" and have the bubble trap, skimmer, filters, etc.. second would be fuge, and 3rd return. The drilling could be done at various "levels" to reduce bubbles from section to section, and baffles could be put in to direct the flow. Each tank could sit in a different height platform to assist flow if needed?? I have not seen anyone doing this. I have searched, and the closest I have found is a "stacked" system. http://www.reef-eden.net/2006_reef.htm
 
I have a 30 gallon sump on my 125. It works well but in a perfect world I would like to see atleast a 40 gallon on a 125. Of course it always depends on how big the skimmer going in it is. If I had an external skimmer my 30 gallon would be plenty.
 
You know.....I could be lying. We may have done our stand remodel during set-up. I really can't remember but the more I think of it, the less likely it was completely full.

Doing the trough the wall might be an easier option.
 
I have a 30 gallon sump on my 125. It works well but in a perfect world I would like to see atleast a 40 gallon on a 125. Of course it always depends on how big the skimmer going in it is. If I had an external skimmer my 30 gallon would be plenty.

I currently have a hang on the back skimmer, that is sized for my tank, so it will get left on the display tank. The skimmer is 21" tall (the part that hangs down from the lip of the tank). Over all it is about 29" tall. So it would not fit under my tank (that is 27" tall).

Yeah 20/20 hindsight.
 
How much live rock do you have, and what livestock (fish and coral)? Canisters can be good if you keep them clean, but that can be a pain. If you have a light bio-load I would remove the canister altogether and just rely on the skimmer, live rock, and water changes.
 
Back
Top