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CarlitosReef

CarlitosReef

New member
So I been reading around for 4 months in different forums. So I am new to this hobby. I bought a 55g months back thinking it would be a good tank to start a reef. Well I know is not impossible but it can be a PITA from what I have been told, and would also limit me to a lot of things. I also realized I will end up wanting to go bigger soon.

So instead I chose to let this hobby make me the money to at least get my first DT to do my first reef that I would be satisfied for a while. I have already bought other equipment use for a good deal after I got my 55g and before I got a new idea.

So my new idea is to turn my 55g in to a frag tank, to swap around and sell to at least start building my coral collection and make some money for a bigger DT.

I know I am not trying to make a business out of this when technically it is, but I want to learn and enjoy it during the process. I am not in a rush to getting a bigger DT. But I am planning in having some mid expensive corals and be able to get some rare ones as the process and funds would allow me.

I am planning in going to NY for Dec, so I would really like to have my set up running before so I can bring back some corals I can't find where I live.

So first I need some help building this COMPLETE set up using what I already have and what I am thinking in buying or what I should buy. I am open to ANY ADVICE!

I have
55g 48 1/4 L x 12 3/4 W x 21H Center Plastic Brace + Stand
30g Sump
Mag 12 for return pump
Hang on or in sump skimmer
3 Maxi Jet 1,200gph
2 Light fixture came with my 55g 24" fluorescent light bulb I am not sure if these fixtures can be used with a different bulb for salt water set up.

I have in mind one of these two light fixture for less than $300 which is my budget on the lights.

1st option no MH

Aquarium Light 6x 54 T5 HO Reef Moon Lights +Timer

48'' long X 12'' wide and 2'' tall
T5 HO Aquarium Light w/ Lunar Moonlights
6X 54 Watt T5 HO (324 watts)
Powered by 5 year warranty ballast
Digital Timer included- built right into light- so you can have lights come on exactly when wanted
4- bulbs are on 1 timer
2- bulbs are on the other timer
6 - 1 watt led moonlights on the other timer
4-12k (sunlight bulb) INCLUDED
2- actinic bulbs included "“( Blue bulb) INCLUDED

Unit come with splash guard to protect light from condensation/ splash and corrosion Bulbs included are straight pin bi prong


2nd Option

T5 + MH + Moon LED

Metal Halide ADV Plus 716W
Dimensions - 47.50" x 13.75" x 3.00"
Dimensions w/brackets - 48.00" x 17.25" x 6.00"
Supports 2x 250W Metal Halide DE FC2 lamps
Supports 4x 54W T5 High Output (HO) lamps
Supports 6x dual Bluemoon LED
6x Power Switch (2xMH, 2x T5, 1x LED, 1x Fan)
5x Power Cord (2x MH, 1x T5, 1x LED, 1x Fan)
External HQI controllers
Internal T5 HO fluorescent ballasts
Non-corrosive powder coated aluminum housing
Heavy duty cooling fan
Glass splash guard
Mounting legs
Standard T5 sockets
Double Ended FC2 HQI sockets
Highly polished reflector
CE Certified


I am planning in buying 2x Koralia 1400gph power heads.

My idea is to come up with a sump and overflow design without having to drill either tank. I would like to use them for my reef set up later on.

I would like to have a couple of live rocks in it to spread out some corals.

Do I need a sand bed? Do I need any type of species in it ?

Can I have or should I have a fuge in my sump?

How many stages my sump needs to be?

Do I need to mix my RODI water with salt, so when I do water changes?

What other equipment am I missing please give me an idea how I should set up my 55g as a frag tank. I am trying to have it as simple as possible

:mixed::mixed::mixed:
 
Carlito, I admire your enthusiasm. you have posed a lot of questions, my opinion on lighting would be as follows, SPS corals = MH or LED lighting, so I would go option #2. The HOB overflow to a sump is not a problem, Live Rock is almost a necessity in a reef tank, but not really in a frag tank, so you hve to decide what it's going to be mainly. Without Live rock as your main biological filtration method, you would need a wet/dry filter or several canister or HOB filter types with some type of bacteria colonizing material. Sand bed is optional, keep in mind it also provides a place for good bacteria, but normaly something you don't need in a "frag tank". A refugium is something that can never be considered a negative addition, so I say yes, it is something you should consider. The sump should be able to handle your heaters, skimmer & refugium, so I would say at least 3 stages. I mix my salt & RO/DI water & let it sit for a couple of hours before using. I do 10-20% water change a week, that is my preference. Since I saw no mention of a protein skimmer, that would be my advice on any missing equiptment for you. Hopefully someone else will chime in & expand on my suggestions. Enjoy.
 
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:bounce3: First of all I would like to THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!! For taking the time to get my confident even stronger with your advice.

I am glad I never gave up on this forum, I know it gets crazy noggin busy! lol

Option 2 will be taken for sure now. Any good pre made HOB overflow you guys can recommend as I will be looking around and come back and post what I find.
I also seen it can be a DIY HOB overflow but whatever is less expensive I would do. The only reason I ask about the rock is because I read some corals tend to spread out better on rocks. The wet/dry filter can be part of the sump once after the HOB overflow?

Actualy you miss the skimmer part :p, I mentioned I have a skimmer that can be hang on or place inside the sump.


Come on guys anyone else willing to chime in!! :idea:
 
Yes, you are right, I missed the skimmer & yes again on the sump as a wet dry filter, but you will need a bio-media to provide a place for your colony of bacteria. I wouldn't worry about corals spreading on Live Rock if you plan on selling it, It would be easier to place it on egg crate & frag it to a plug or disc for sale.
 
sporto0 said:
yes again on the sump as a wet dry filter, but you will need a bio-media to provide a place for your colony of bacteria. I wouldn't worry about corals spreading on Live Rock if you plan on selling it, It would be easier to place it on egg crate & frag it to a plug or disc for sale.
Click to expand...

Basically a place where my bacteria will be collected? Like media pads or bio bags.

Also if I don't add rock or sand in my frag tank instead of keeping it in my fuge it would be less bacteria to be around in my frag tank right?
 
CarlitosReef said:
Basically a place where my bacteria will be collected? Like media pads or bio bags.

Also if I don't add rock or sand in my frag tank instead of keeping it in my fuge it would be less bacteria to be around in my frag tank right?
Click to expand...

Good questions, yes, like media pads or bio bags & a frag tank is optimally run with little to no bio-load put upon it, 1 algae eating fish maybe,(tang depending on tank size) without rock or substrate, it is easy to keep clean & nutrients low. Lighting & coral feeding are the main concerns.
 
Ok cool, looks like I'm settle on my overflow. I decided to go with a pvc overflow set up much cheaper.

Is going to be pvc halfway down to my sump and then flex pvc or hoses will be used to reach my sump.

Are bio balls good to add to a wet/dry sump design? I here a lot of confusing negative things on bio balls.


I'm still brainstorming for my wet/dry sump with a fuge design.

My skimmer I'm not sure if to hang it on my DT or incorporated to my sump design.
 
Bio Balls tend to become nitrate traps, which is why many people to not advocate their use. If you're running a Refugium you can always put live rock in there if you don't want it in your DT. If you're planning on a larger tank later on, you can always transplant the live rock
 
I'm reading an article on bio balls and seems like the reason is lack of maintenance on the bio balls.

I am planning in adding a couple of pieces of live rock to my refuge.
 
There isn't really a great deal of concern with bioballs that are properly maintained and submerged. Wet/Dry set ups aren't necessarily nitrate traps, they just promote the growth of the aerobic bacteria responsible for the nitrate production. Feeding habits and additional biological/chemical filtration will determine the level of nitrates in any given system. I'm just sayin...:wave:
 
T Diddy said:
There isn't really a great deal of concern with bioballs that are properly maintained and submerged. Wet/Dry set ups aren't necessarily nitrate traps, they just promote the growth of the aerobic bacteria responsible for the nitrate production. Feeding habits and additional biological/chemical filtration will determine the level of nitrates in any given system. I'm just sayin...:wave:
Click to expand...

+1 You are just 'sayin' the truth.
 
That what I meant to say, those who seems to have a problem with bio balls is because they don't properly maintain them. So much junk builds up inside that causes problems later on.

Can you guys recommend test kits I should have in handy for this frag set up and what brand I should go with?

what type of gloves can be use to handle corals or frags?

Since I am set on going with MH + T5 + Moon LED can you guys recommend bulbs and brand for the MH and T5?

My plan was to do 250W 20K MH DE do not know yet which brand to go with, and 2 T5 Neutral white and 2 purple is this good?
 
Pardon me if I'm sticking a wrench in your plans, but wouldn't it be a good idea to try to establish a reef tank before you begin to talk about selling frags? My advice would be to start up your 55 as a reef system and see how it goes. My 60 gallon system is just a tall 55 and I have a very successful tank. Growing corals is not as easy as it sounds and I think you have some learning to do first. Sometimes the only way to learn this hobby is by trial and error. I don't think you can turn the hobby into a money making proposition before you have some experience under your belt.
 
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