Checkvalve or other options!

[Kinetic]

For a return that comes from the bottom of a tank, I know that a checkvalve would be needed in order to keep the tank from draining in the event of the sump return turning off. I've also heard that checkvalves are prone to failure! Has the technology improved since I last heard? What other options are out there?

 

[Elite]

Install 2 :lol: .. J/K man

Ain't you getting out??

 

[Kinetic]

I'm getting out of the large tank basement setup, but I still have my little 32g setup. I'm thinking of finding a replacement tank for it, or maybe to just sell some corals and donate others to the steinhart. It's easier (relatively) to move a small nano tank than a basement setup

plus I'm going to spend 4 years researching on my next tank

 

[Sparkss]

I am afraid that they are still far from foolproof, although I admittedly have no person long term experience with them, only some short term "successful" experiences. All things wear out, but I guess that the hard part is knowning when these need to be replaced (not to mention that they are usually in a place that makes them harder to do the replacement).

There are the much more expensive electronic valves that are often used for this purpose and for the "bubbless" surge devices. But they are far from cost effective.

 

[Kinetic]

Mermaid has a checkvalve under their edgeless tank (at least that's what I thought it was), if those pro's are using it, maybe they have a secret. Perhaps replacing it every 3 months or so would be pretty safe.

I saw a few true union check valves, so replacing them would be pretty simple, or I could just get two single union ball valves and replace the union pieces as well with the check every 3 months.

Maybe even running the return as a spray bar halfway up the tank will keep it from completely overflowing as a safeguard.

I was thinking about those center overflows in the middle of a 4 side viewing tank, but I never liked the look of that. Maybe a spray bar type of return going halfway up the tank, partially hidden by rockwork. It'd at least keep the coral (below halfway) and fish alive if the check valve really failed. Sucks for the houses floor though!

 

[sfsuphysics]

no need for a checkvalve just drill a few holes on your return pipe right under the water level, once the water drops below.. *slurp* siphon broken. Now if you have some elaborate not-so-closed loop system where you have bulkheads in back of the tank, then you're screwed... you need to put a pipe that goes over the back of the tank

But I've used check valves before, and they seem to work fine, I'm sure they'll get clogged eventually but hey so will siphon holes on the return pipe (but those are much easier to clean). But a couple unions above and below it that you can undo and clean it out bi-annually should work fine.

Lowes used to have a nice all plastic one next to the ABS pipe section, although it seems to have been replaced by one with a metal screw inside of it.

 

[GreshamH]

Changing them out every few months would definitly help, as would monthly cleaning.

 

[Kinetic]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7760055#post7760055 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sfsuphysics
no need for a checkvalve just drill a few holes on your return pipe right under the water level, once the water drops below.. *slurp* siphon broken. Now if you have some elaborate not-so-closed loop system where you have bulkheads in back of the tank, then you're screwed... you need to put a pipe that goes over the back of the tank

But I've used check valves before, and they seem to work fine, I'm sure they'll get clogged eventually but hey so will siphon holes on the return pipe (but those are much easier to clean). But a couple unions above and below it that you can undo and clean it out bi-annually should work fine.

Lowes used to have a nice all plastic one next to the ABS pipe section, although it seems to have been replaced by one with a metal screw inside of it.

ah sorry I should be more specific. This is for a return that comes out of the bottom of a tank (drilled through the bottom with a few nozzles, not reaching anywhere close to the top of the water level).

cleaning out bi-annually sounds pretty darn easy =)

 

[Kinetic]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7760070#post7760070 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GreshamH
Changing them out every few months would definitly help, as would monthly cleaning.

soak in white vinegar and give it a good scrub would do it?

 

[Unarce]

The Wye check valve is supposed to be the most reliable, but it has to be mounted vertically. Still, there's always the possiblity something will get caught in there.

I have the Wye check valve, but also have syphon breaks on all 4 returns. Can never be too careful.

 

[GreshamH]

The ultimate drawback to them, is the fact those feather dusters with the hard shell like to grow in them, making them useless. I've used them in various tanks for a very long time. One tank has gone thru 10 of them over the years Surge tanks w/o skimmers REALLY breed those feather dusters like no ones business :lol:

 

[Kinetic]

drawback to check valves in general, or wye valves? Anyone know of a website / reference that explains the differences?

 

[Patio]

delete

 

[Patio]

I run a mag 3 through the bottom of my 12'' cube with a check valve.

I don’t know the name of the valve, but I will try to explain it.

the mag drives the water through a plastic flap (with a rubber washer) when the mag fails or the power goes out the water pressure seals the flap (with rubber washer) holding the water up. More pressure more seal. But I am sure there is a pressure rating.

The first check valve I bought was from the plumbing section at HD, it sucked. I tested it because I thought it would not work, I was right.

 

[Kinetic]

where did you get the current valve you're using?

 

[Patio]

aquatic gallery.

The HD would drain the main tank (7.5g) in three-four hours.
The AG did not leak for the 24 hour period I tested it.

By no means am I saying these are 100%