aquaman_68
New member
For those of you curious about chloramines.....I have extensive knowledge in this department & for quite sometime as they started chloramiones in my area over 6 years ago. I will offer you a recent explanation rather than a link of old lit. This BTW is my findings from extremely extensive reserch.
Previous tests done at least a couple years ago in the club found that di removed a portion of it. (what they could detect in ppm range that is) But chloramines are 1
1) chlorine
2) free ammonia
Removal in the PPM range isn't enough though.
Chlorine is easily removed. The free ammonia is tenacious to remove completely. (in the PPB range & also hard to test in this range as well) It is also noted that di cart though work...are exausted quite quickly from this & could possibly leach some back once they are full. (but they don't remove into the PPB range) In order to remove to the ppb range you need certain types of di resins in combination to remove the free ammonia in the ppb range. Once again...they will exaust much quicker than they usually rmeoving normal chlorinated water alone. This is where the catalyzed carbon comes in pre di canisters. It removes a higher amount at a higher rate & allows your ro membrane to take less of the brunt prior to di.
If your curious as to why on the resins... There's another whole story to that. I'll try to shorten it to keep from many just ignoring this post due to the size!!
Free ammonia can't be fully removed for a very special reason. It is very unstable at a high ph & very difficult to remove in that area. (what ours taps are putting out in the 8's that is) in order to remove most traces into the ppb range you must lower the ph below 7. When you get the ph down in this area you will remove 99.9999 percent which will drop you in the very very low ppb range. So to recap without all the tech stuff. Cat carbon pre membrane & double di cation & anion resin in combination to remove the last lower traces of the free ammonia!!
HTH most & does not confuse too many!!!
Previous tests done at least a couple years ago in the club found that di removed a portion of it. (what they could detect in ppm range that is) But chloramines are 1
1) chlorine
2) free ammonia
Removal in the PPM range isn't enough though.
Chlorine is easily removed. The free ammonia is tenacious to remove completely. (in the PPB range & also hard to test in this range as well) It is also noted that di cart though work...are exausted quite quickly from this & could possibly leach some back once they are full. (but they don't remove into the PPB range) In order to remove to the ppb range you need certain types of di resins in combination to remove the free ammonia in the ppb range. Once again...they will exaust much quicker than they usually rmeoving normal chlorinated water alone. This is where the catalyzed carbon comes in pre di canisters. It removes a higher amount at a higher rate & allows your ro membrane to take less of the brunt prior to di.
If your curious as to why on the resins... There's another whole story to that. I'll try to shorten it to keep from many just ignoring this post due to the size!!
Free ammonia can't be fully removed for a very special reason. It is very unstable at a high ph & very difficult to remove in that area. (what ours taps are putting out in the 8's that is) in order to remove most traces into the ppb range you must lower the ph below 7. When you get the ph down in this area you will remove 99.9999 percent which will drop you in the very very low ppb range. So to recap without all the tech stuff. Cat carbon pre membrane & double di cation & anion resin in combination to remove the last lower traces of the free ammonia!!HTH most & does not confuse too many!!!
