CNN Breaking News: War on nuisance algae

[MarcoPolo]

Years of intense diplomatic relations fell apart when MarcoPolo was forced to declare war on nuisance algae in his 125g mixed reef. Preliminary reports from our correspondent on the battle field show that following actions were undertaken this far:

1- a high quality RO/DI unit with TDS reader was purchased yesterday replacing prior system. We are not sure what levels of TDS, if any, are currently in the DT, but an intensive 25% WC expected to take place over next 4 weeks

2- two media reactors purchased to run RowaPhos and BioPellets. This is an upgrade vs. prior filter socks to improve effectiveness

3- Rowa carbon is now run for 2 days every month

4- 5 different species of macroalgae purchased over past weeks for sump, with photoperiod increased last night from 18 to 24/24

5- MH photoperiod reduced over past 2 weeks from 9 down to 7 hours. The 4 T5 are running 2x 12 and 2x10 hours respectively

6- the 3 Tunze 6105 pumps moved to pulse on tank glasses to maximize random flow,which is now deemed good

7- kalk concentration increased in ATO to ensure saturated solution, also some vinegar added

8- 15ml vinegar added morning and evening in DT

9- bubble king skimmer now cleaned daily or every two days to increase efficiency, and fine tuned to produce "good quality" waste

10- alk, calcium and magnesium now steadily in the respective ranges: 8-9, 410-440, 1400+

11- tool purchased to suck detritus from bare bottom daily

12- during water changes, algae carpet build up removed by means on syphon

MarcoPolo asking his RC Allies to join the war on nuisance algae asking these initial questions:

A) what else can I do?

B) some of my PSP coral are immune to algae buildup, while others are covered with only tips surviving, why?

C) I fragged the corals covered in algae and glued the good parts on new rocks, but after a few weeks algae take over again

D) are steps above going to eventually fade away the nuisance algae on the base of my SPS or do need to take more drastic action to save the corals infested by the algae?

PLEASE JOIN MARCOPOLO IN HIS WAR TO NUISANCE ALGAE AND SEND REINFORCEMENTS ON THE BATTLE FIELD! :fun4:

 

[HighlandReefer]

How much time has elapsed since you implemented all of the above procedures?

 

[MarcoPolo]

The first macroalgae 3 weeks ago, then one new one every week. The daily skimming cleaning 10 days. Reducing the MH photoperiod 2 weeks. Daily sucking up of dirt couple of weeks. The new RO/DI since ...now. Increasing kalc in the ATO about a week. So all in all, on average 10-15 days. Why?

 

[HighlandReefer]

It takes some time for all your control measures to kick in.

Sounds like you are on the right track.

 

[HighlandReefer]

2- two media reactors purchased to run RowaPhos and BioPellets. This is an upgrade vs. prior filter socks to improve effectiveness

3- Rowa carbon is now run for 2 days every month

What is your phosphate level at now?

Perhaps running GAC 24/7 may be better, at least until you get control of your algal problems?

 

[HighlandReefer]

"B) some of my PSP coral are immune to algae buildup, while others are covered with only tips surviving, why?"

Many coral produce toxins (poisons) which prevent algae from growing on or close to them. Mushroom coral are known for their toxic poisons (Chemical Warfare).

FWIW, I have used mushrooms to clear entire pieces of rock of nuisance algae by moving them around & letting them mulitply.

 

[MarcoPolo]

I bought a Hanna phosphates checker about 6-8 months ago, My tank reading has always been 0ppm. I was surprised and thought it was a defective instrument. But with some tests appears accurate. So no measurable phosphate in tank, but I have to assume the algae are up taking the phosphate which is why the water column is "clean".

With regards to Rowa carbon, the instructions state that that for sea water use for only 1-2 days, but does not say why.

 

[Genetics]

What type of algae is it because you really need to understand the enemy before a formal declaration of war. The last thing you would want to do is rush into battle find yourself overwhelmed, digging a trench, and end up being there for the long haul. Next thing you know you'll declare mission accomplished but still haven't fixed the problem.

 

[HighlandReefer]

Zero readings simply mean that the instrument can no longer detect phosphate. FWIW, natural reefs run around 0.005 ppm phosphate which is well below detectable readings with the equipment we use in the hobby. By constantly removing the pest algae, you are exporting phosphate. Some algae are very adapt at extremely low phosphate levels, perhaps below what many of our coral can survive with. Scrubbing and removing the algae, over time, will allow other bacteria or coralline to take over the surfaces that algae are residing on. This is why scrubbing and siphoning and good water filtration are so important. Running a phosphate removing agent will help remove some phosphate before algae get it. There is some documented evidence that some species of algae can use organic forms of P (used instead of phosphate like bacteria).

The foods added for fish....etc, are very high in phosphate, so you are adding a constant supply of phosphate when you feed your fish.

 

[HighlandReefer]

What type of algae is it because you really need to understand the enemy before a formal declaration of war. The last thing you would want to do is rush into battle find yourself overwhelmed, digging a trench, and end up being there for the long haul. Next thing you know you'll declare mission accomplished but still haven't fixed the problem.

Good question & point Nate.

Perhaps good quality close-up pics will help if you have that capability.

 

[MarcoPolo]

Indeed, a pic is worth a thousand words. Problems is that I am not well equipped for taking pics, but will try. Is there a web site i can look to ID my nuisance algae and report back to you?

 

[HighlandReefer]

Basically, The best you can hope for without a microscope, is to put your algae in a group so to speak.

Bryopsis (very tough to control) is one you can search pictures for. Red algae are another group that are tough. Hair algae in general is another group. Derbesia look very similar to hair algae and one may put them there, but the Derbesia are tough algae to control.

It seems for the most part hair algae are easiest to control. Hair algae include many, many species of algae.

FWIW, some of the cyanobacteria can easily be confused for algae by hobbyists.

 

[Genetics]

Can you describe it? Green, string-like?

 

[spieszak]

What type of algae is it because you really need to understand the enemy before a formal declaration of war. The last thing you would want to do is rush into battle find yourself overwhelmed, digging a trench, and end up being there for the long haul. Next thing you know you'll declare mission accomplished but still haven't fixed the problem.

If this sounds snarky, honestly I don't mean it that way. I've read the list above, and as most of us, a boat load of threads on algae. What I'm wondering is what type of algae the step above and time won't cure? Sounds like the OP has it covered, and could experiment once the algae is under control to see what to "remove" if anything...

 

[MarcoPolo]

Sorry guys....I might have been misleading :debi::headwalls:

Rather than nuisance algae, this is likely Cyanobacteria. I did a search on bryopsis, hair algae, red algae etc. and none match my problem. Then I searched for photo of Cyanobacteria on corals...and it's seems to match what I have. I have a turf like build up of this ugly stuff on the base of some corals, quickly building up towards the tips.

Sorry, I should have been more precise to start with :fun4:

 

[HighlandReefer]

Cyanobacteria are in essence half bacteria and half algae so to speak which makes them even harder to control than algae.

Nate's questions on IDing your pests have now set you in a bit different direction for control measures.

This is a quote from Boomer which is helpful in gaining control of cyanobacteria:


""Some added thoughts from over the years from many

The only known fish to eat Cyano is Amblygobius stethophthalmus and it needs to be the real one not its close relative that is often Mis-ID with it.

A 2- 3 month scheme

1. Water changes. 25% weekly.

2. Bare bottom refugium only for cheato nutrient export and not for critters.

3. Siphon, sump, refugium, etc. every week during water change and clean all filter you have.

4. Blow off all the Cyano and settled stuff you can so it can be siphoned off.

5. Clean out skimmer and cup every week.

6. Carbon, 1 cup per 50 gallons / 2 wks. Try to use ROX

7. GFO -HC , change every month.

8. Purigen, every month

9. Soak frozen food in RO/DI and discard water before use. This is especially true for brine shrimp. Matter of fact I use to pour off the water, and then fill it back up, to repeat it until there was only whole brine shrimp in the container.

10. Read what is in the food and look for things low in phosphates.

11. Keep the pH in the very low 8's or very high 7's, as Cyano will out compete other algae's in higher pH water.

12. The # 1 limiting nutrient for Cyano is N, not P based on studies in various microbiology texts.

13. During these water changes and blowing stuff off and siphoning it up run a Diatom filter with a second cake of PAC (Powdered activated carbon).

14. Increase water flow where Cyano are growing, as they do not like high currents.

15. Shutting of all lights, almost total darkness for 48 hr. every few days.

Last resort is Chemi-Clean by Boyd."

 

[Genetics]

If this sounds snarky, honestly I don't mean it that way. I've read the list above, and as most of us, a boat load of threads on algae. What I'm wondering is what type of algae the step above and time won't cure? Sounds like the OP has it covered, and could experiment once the algae is under control to see what to "remove" if anything...

Yes, all of his steps would be a good move to eradicate algae. However, sometimes people mistake algae for cyanobacteria. Also, some nuisance forms of algae can be controlled but never eliminated.

 

[MarcoPolo]

Every time I purchased astrea snails for my tank they don't live long, in a few days they are all gone. I bought 5 a couple of weeks back, and I can only see 2 alive. The rest of my bioload is in good health - for example my blue tang is 18 months with me, growing, good colors, and very active. How come every time I buy astrea snail they die? What wrong water parameters would cause that, and can cyano be an issue?

 

[HighlandReefer]

Many marine cyanobacteria produce a toxin called microcystin-LR. The toxic effect of microcystin-LR on snails has been described in many research articles as well as harmful effects on other organisms we keep.

Evidence for a Novel Marine Harmful Algal Bloom:
Cyanotoxin (Microcystin) Transfer from Land to Sea
Otters
http://www.nserc.und.edu/learning/Milleretal2010.pdf

A good reason to run GAC 24/7.

From the above article:


Microcystins are fast becoming a global health
concern and recurrent blooms with toxin elaboration have been
reported throughout Europe [7,8], Asia [9,10], Africa [11,12],
Australia [13,14] and North and South America [15"“17]. Factors
that contribute to bloom formation and toxin production include
warm water [18,19], nutrient enrichment [19,20] and seasonal
increases in light intensity [2,21]. Rising global temperatures and
eutrophication may contribute to more frequent events and
cyanobacterial "˜"˜super-blooms'', with enhanced risks to human
health [23].
Until recently, microcystin intoxication was considered a public
health issue mainly of freshwater habitat, reflected by the vast
body of published literature on potential human health risks due to
microcystin exposure in rivers, lakes, reservoirs and freshwater
aquaculture [4,13,16,24,25,26]. In contrast, monitoring of marine
water and seafood for similar risks has been limited, despite
confirmation of outflows of microcystin-contaminated freshwater
to the ocean [14,17,27,28], detection of impacts by microcystins
on copepods, corals and fish [29"“31] and identification of proteins
with protein phosphatase inhibitory activity in seawater, suggesting
the existence of an additional class of marine "˜"˜Harmful Algal
Blooms'' (HAB); hepatotoxic shellfish poisoning (HSP) [15].