Considering Large System - ?'s

[ponokareefer]

I am considering having a system built for my office, but was wanting people's advise prior to going ahead. I have a 125 gallon in the place where it will end up, but wanting bigger and better looking. I am looking at a 9 foot long tank and wanting the stand, tank and canopy to go from floor to ceiling, which is just short of 9 feet high. I am wanting to have the canopy connect directly to the ceiling and be about 2.5 feet tall, and the stand to be 3 feet tall, leaving the tank itself being 3 feet high. I am wanting the system to be 1.5 feet wide(skinny) for easier access to everything under the system as well as in the tank. My current system is 25 inches wide and due to the location, getting to everything can be a challenge. Is 18 inches to thin on this large of a system?

Unfortunately, I do not have access to water directly at the site, nor will I be able to have a "fish room" directly behind it, so sump, top off tank, refugium and all equipment are going to have to sit underneath the main tank.

As for lighting, I do not want to go with MH for various reasons, so am considering T5 vs. LED. Will LED penetrate deep enough on a 3 foot deep tank, sitting 2 feet above the water line?

Any other advise is greatly appreciated.

 

[dave.m]

A common guideline to follow, especially for reef tanks, is to make the width the same as the height, then make it as long as you like. You definitely want access from both sides, though, if possible. As you have mentioned, you need to be able to reach everything, and 36" tall by 36" wide would be a challenge even for an orangutan. However, in a crunch, there are long tongs that can be used if needed.

Skinny tanks are difficult to decorate well. It's hard to build much more than a brick wall up one side. Also, their narrowness really cuts down on surface area at the top for gas exchange.

I have been able to successfully keep LPS in a 36" tall with Orphek PR-156s, so LED lighting should not be a problem.

Dave.M

 

[ponokareefer]

A common guideline to follow, especially for reef tanks, is to make the width the same as the height, then make it as long as you like. You definitely want access from both sides, though, if possible. As you have mentioned, you need to be able to reach everything, and 36" tall by 36" wide would be a challenge even for an orangutan. However, in a crunch, there are long tongs that can be used if needed.

Skinny tanks are difficult to decorate well. It's hard to build much more than a brick wall up one side. Also, their narrowness really cuts down on surface area at the top for gas exchange.

I have been able to successfully keep LPS in a 36" tall with Orphek PR-156s, so LED lighting should not be a problem.

Dave.M

Thank you for the advise Dave. Aquascaping was my biggest concern, but was looking into a rock wall, as well as pvc piping going through rocks to build a structure.

I had figured LED was probably what I was going to have to use, but was wondering if T5's were an option or not. I'm not looking at keeping SPS or clams, but was considering some higher light loving anemones, so needed some good intensity possibly at lower levels.

 

[anbosu]

T5s might be ok if you have high quality individual reflectors. I would go with Kessil cannons or something similar if it was my tank, especially since you will likely have less evaporation with the LEDs.

A 9' tank that is only 18" front to back isn't going to be much of a reef, those are more FOWLR dimensions IMO. The deeper you make the tank front to back the more room you'll have under the stand for the ATO, etc. which is a nice bonus I think.

I recently had a tank built with an 8'x3' base. It's only 2' tall though, which is my only regret at this point. The depth front to back is amazing.

 

[ponokareefer]

Which is better, closed loop or powerheads? Or probably, what are the advantages/disadvantages of each system?

 

[ponokareefer]

Nevermind about closed loop vs. powerheads, definitely going closed loop.

 

[h.cordero]

I think that from money wise an 8x4 or 8x3 its really great size because you could go with one led fixture front to back, use just one styrofoam sheet, its a common measurement ect..... For the close loop aspect your looking at $1100 vs $625 for a powered head.
my tank its 10x2.5x2.5 the only thing i regret is doing my stand not high enough.

 

[ponokareefer]

I think that from money wise an 8x4 or 8x3 its really great size because you could go with one led fixture front to back, use just one styrofoam sheet, its a common measurement ect..... For the close loop aspect your looking at $1100 vs $625 for a powered head.
my tank its 10x2.5x2.5 the only thing i regret is doing my stand not high enough.

How high is your current stand? I was looking at around 36 inches for mine.

As for closed loop, I am questioning whether or not I want to go that route now as I will have no access to the back of the tank, so if one of the closed loop lines formed a leak, I have no way to fix it.

 

[benjc]

First off, go with LEDs to minimize heat transfer to the water and the ensuing evaporation (unless your canopy will be ventilated to a space outside your office, in which case humidity won't be an issue). Have you sorted out how you're going to be doing your water changes? Water is heavy and if you don't have an adjacent fish room or the ability to generate RODI water/salt water adjacent to the tank, it will be a lot of work. If the water changes are going to be a real hassle (carting buckets of water to/fro) and you'd like to minimize them, I'd suggest going fish-only (or at most a softy-dominated tank). With a fish-only tank, a simple closed loop should be sufficient for water flow.

 

[ponokareefer]

First off, go with LEDs to minimize heat transfer to the water and the ensuing evaporation (unless your canopy will be ventilated to a space outside your office, in which case humidity won't be an issue). Have you sorted out how you're going to be doing your water changes? Water is heavy and if you don't have an adjacent fish room or the ability to generate RODI water/salt water adjacent to the tank, it will be a lot of work. If the water changes are going to be a real hassle (carting buckets of water to/fro) and you'd like to minimize them, I'd suggest going fish-only (or at most a softy-dominated tank). With a fish-only tank, a simple closed loop should be sufficient for water flow.

Water changes has me considering downsizing to an extend. Just too many trips back and forth carrying 5 gallon buckets. I will be doing more of a softy-dominated tank, so don't need perfect water conditions.

As for the closed loop, I am considering doing the plumbing off of the left side of the tank instead of the back in order to get access to it, and closing the left side of the tank off as kind of a closet. Since I am going off the side of the tank, I'm wondering if a manifold that would run along the top of the tank in the back would work.

 

[h.cordero]

ITS 31.5 inches, I recommend sizing your tank around the skimmer

 

[dave.m]

Water changes has me considering downsizing to an extend. Just too many trips back and forth carrying 5 gallon buckets. I will be doing more of a softy-dominated tank, so don't need perfect water conditions.

You will need to make up your replacement water at least 24 hours in advance. Buckets are not happening.

Check the other build threads here on RC. You will see they have large 50 gallon and up reservoir tanks, one for collecting sufficient RO/DI water and a second one for mixing the salt and letting it circulate for at least 24 hours to ensure the salt is thoroughly mixed before performing the water change.

You would pump the old water out to a drain and then pump the replacement water from the saltwater reservoir to the tank.

For the Closed Loop, yes you can very well consider coming in over the top along both sides to get water movement changing in opposite directions instead of drilling holes on the tank. Your canopy will hide the pipes. Only the outlets (equipped with eductors for increased flow) will show at the waterline.

I would keep your tank size to the most you can fit/afford. There's no use stinting where size is concerned.

Dave.M