Coral dying or Sloughing ?
- Thread starter Omarcrown
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Definitely dying. The other head looks a little retracted to me as well. It's been decades since I've kept LPS but back then, brown jelly disease was a problem. Did you notice any brown jelly looking stuff on it?
Here's an old thread about treating brown jelly disease.
Here's a more recent article about brown jelly disease.
Here's an old thread about treating brown jelly disease.
Here's a more recent article about brown jelly disease.
Do the rest of my coral look healthy or are they infected. I just removed the diseased one so the torch retracted a bit. I tested the water twice using the master test kit and all the levels were where'd you want them. Removed chlorine using water conditioner. Salinity at 1.026. I bought the corals 2 days ago.
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Can you post your specific water test results? Specifically Alkalinity, Calcium, Magnesium, pH, Nitrite, Nitrate & Phosphate?
Zoanthids, 1st pic look fine.
Bubble Coral, 2nd pic looks in rough shape.
I’m not sure what pics 3&4 are but it appears a bit closed up.
Same with the coral in pics 5&6.
This makes me think there’s something they’re not happy with. How long has your tank been setup and running?
Summary: please post your water test results for the parameters mentioned above and answer how long the tank has been running, what lighting you have and what your filtration is.
Calling in more help @kharmaguru @Reefing102 @wvned @ironwill723 @T Diddy @JCOLE
Zoanthids, 1st pic look fine.
Bubble Coral, 2nd pic looks in rough shape.
I’m not sure what pics 3&4 are but it appears a bit closed up.
Same with the coral in pics 5&6.
This makes me think there’s something they’re not happy with. How long has your tank been setup and running?
Summary: please post your water test results for the parameters mentioned above and answer how long the tank has been running, what lighting you have and what your filtration is.
Calling in more help @kharmaguru @Reefing102 @wvned @ironwill723 @T Diddy @JCOLE
Salinity 1.026
Temp 79
Ph was 8.2
Phosphate was near 0 if not 0
Nitrate Near 0
Calcium was between 440-460 mg/L (ppm)
KH was about 160
Wasn't sure if my water had chlorine so I treated for it anyway
14 gallon Biocube tank which included carbon filter, temp control, LED lights white and blue, and water jet.
Ran the tank empty coral wise as recommended by the store for 21 days to let everything settle, tested before and after putting all the corals in nothing changed.
Always washed my hands before handling the coral or putting my hand in the tank. I do have an extra filter that I could add if needed.
Around 7 days in of the empty tank I added a measured amount of All-For-Reef for nutrients.
They would be around 48-60 hours in the tank at this point in time.
How is the Torch looking?
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As mentioned, the one head on the hammer is definitely not doing well. I’d personally frag it off. The other head looks a bit retracted but otherwise fine.
The zoas look fine.
The bubble coral, if it’s been lights out for a bit, looks okay, but if that’s when lights are on, doesn’t look happy but not dying.
What appears to be a platygyra frag, looks to be okay. A bit deflated but not terrible.
What appears to be cyphastrea appears to be dying (the white is not good), but could potentially be saved with good husbandry.
The torch, looks fine (perhaps a bit closed up (was it moved recently?) and appears to have a good flesh band.
Is the lighting the stock LED lighting? If so, and if I recall correctly, on average you’re pushing about 180-200 par on top, about 130-150 in the middle, and about 75 at the sandbed.
If it was me, I’d move everything down to the sand bed and let the corals acclimate to the light (I’m not sure what par they came from and I don’t believe the Biocube LED is controllable).
Beyond that, in my opinion your tank is very young for corals and it appears your nutrients haven’t stabilized. You would want detectable phosphate (around .03-.1) and detectable nitrate (around 5-20). If the “master” test kit your using is API, it may not be 100% accurate. I’d look into getting Salifert test kits as they are generally held to be pretty accurate. Your salinity, ph, calcium and alk (KH) are in normal ranges.
Are you using tap water or RODI water? If tapwater, I’d switch to RODI. Besides chlorine, tap can have additional nutrients and metals (especially if you’re in an old house with metal pipes) that can contribute to issues with a tank.
A follow up, are you using soap to wash your hands? If so, just be sure to be rinsing thoroughly as soap residue can also cause issues.
Is there any fish in the tank?
The zoas look fine.
The bubble coral, if it’s been lights out for a bit, looks okay, but if that’s when lights are on, doesn’t look happy but not dying.
What appears to be a platygyra frag, looks to be okay. A bit deflated but not terrible.
What appears to be cyphastrea appears to be dying (the white is not good), but could potentially be saved with good husbandry.
The torch, looks fine (perhaps a bit closed up (was it moved recently?) and appears to have a good flesh band.
Is the lighting the stock LED lighting? If so, and if I recall correctly, on average you’re pushing about 180-200 par on top, about 130-150 in the middle, and about 75 at the sandbed.
If it was me, I’d move everything down to the sand bed and let the corals acclimate to the light (I’m not sure what par they came from and I don’t believe the Biocube LED is controllable).
Beyond that, in my opinion your tank is very young for corals and it appears your nutrients haven’t stabilized. You would want detectable phosphate (around .03-.1) and detectable nitrate (around 5-20). If the “master” test kit your using is API, it may not be 100% accurate. I’d look into getting Salifert test kits as they are generally held to be pretty accurate. Your salinity, ph, calcium and alk (KH) are in normal ranges.
Are you using tap water or RODI water? If tapwater, I’d switch to RODI. Besides chlorine, tap can have additional nutrients and metals (especially if you’re in an old house with metal pipes) that can contribute to issues with a tank.
A follow up, are you using soap to wash your hands? If so, just be sure to be rinsing thoroughly as soap residue can also cause issues.
Is there any fish in the tank?
Any recommendation on the bubble Coral, the lights have been on for the day but it kind of "bubbles" up nicely randomly then goes back to around that level
Tips to help the cyphasta?
The torch was slightly affected when I removed the infected hammer it's looking back in good spirits.
The LED isn't adjustable it's either white or blue maximum brightness so I'll try to scoot everything down as suggested. Should I also lower the amount of light hours their getting ?
My mistake I should have been more specific, the master test kit is color based so it was between the top two levels see attached picture, It doesn't have an exact number just a range.
I did indeed use tap water but brand new apartments buildings but is there a way to test for metals and what not ?
Yes always soap and I wash am extra minute to make sure all the residue is off.
Zero fish
Tips to help the cyphasta?
The torch was slightly affected when I removed the infected hammer it's looking back in good spirits.
The LED isn't adjustable it's either white or blue maximum brightness so I'll try to scoot everything down as suggested. Should I also lower the amount of light hours their getting ?
My mistake I should have been more specific, the master test kit is color based so it was between the top two levels see attached picture, It doesn't have an exact number just a range.
I did indeed use tap water but brand new apartments buildings but is there a way to test for metals and what not ?
Yes always soap and I wash am extra minute to make sure all the residue is off.
Zero fish
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ironwill723
Well-known member
Looks like brown jelly disease to me in the first post. You also definitely need some nitrates and phosphates level to be detectable. Zero reading is no good.
Here’s the generally reccomended levels:
Based on that color chart, it’s the API brand, which can be a bit inaccurate.
To test for metals you would need an ICP analysis.
Being a new building, it is most likely PVC but it just depends on the quality of the tap water (some municipalities add things to “sanitize” the water for human consumption). Depending on your municipality, their water test results are likely posted online somewhere.
I would move the remaining corals down (except the zoas, they seem fine where they’re at) and then slowly work them up where your want them.
I’m not sure if there’s much that can be done besides adding proper nutrients and hoping for the best.
I would add a fish or two as they will “aid” in providing food to the coral through their waste.
Also just for some general care guidelines:
Hammers and torches are generally considered medium light and medium indirect flow
Bubble corals medium light and low/medium indirect flow
Cyphastrea low/medium light and low/medium flow
Platygyra medium light and medium flow.
All will benefit from supplemental feedings (such as reef roids or similar) though extra feeding is not necessary (light should be sufficient)
Hope this helps!
Based on that color chart, it’s the API brand, which can be a bit inaccurate.
To test for metals you would need an ICP analysis.
Being a new building, it is most likely PVC but it just depends on the quality of the tap water (some municipalities add things to “sanitize” the water for human consumption). Depending on your municipality, their water test results are likely posted online somewhere.
I would move the remaining corals down (except the zoas, they seem fine where they’re at) and then slowly work them up where your want them.
I’m not sure if there’s much that can be done besides adding proper nutrients and hoping for the best.
I would add a fish or two as they will “aid” in providing food to the coral through their waste.
Also just for some general care guidelines:
Hammers and torches are generally considered medium light and medium indirect flow
Bubble corals medium light and low/medium indirect flow
Cyphastrea low/medium light and low/medium flow
Platygyra medium light and medium flow.
All will benefit from supplemental feedings (such as reef roids or similar) though extra feeding is not necessary (light should be sufficient)
Hope this helps!
I might have missed it, but how old is this system? The rocks look brand new. Also, I see you used tap water. Chlorine isn't the only issue with Tap water. If you had a filter system on the water with carbon, etc., then you could possibly be ok, but RODI is the best at removing impurities. An established system can help with dirtier water, but virgin systems really need good, clean water at the start, IMO. Your nutrients are also low. The API kits are not good for nutrients. The ranges are too wide, in my opinion. I would recommend Hanna Checkers for nutrients for testing lower values. LPS can do better with dirtier water, so API should be okay for LPS. I would shoot for something other than 0 on those tests.
What are your Ammonia and Nitrite levels? Your tank may not be fully cycled yet as well. If cycled, then I would suggest feeding more until your No3 and Po4 increase.
Also, I agree on the brown jelly disease. The torch looks to have a bacterial infection. You could try removing it and giving it an iodine-based dip, but it could be too late for that piece, unfortunately.
What are your Ammonia and Nitrite levels? Your tank may not be fully cycled yet as well. If cycled, then I would suggest feeding more until your No3 and Po4 increase.
Also, I agree on the brown jelly disease. The torch looks to have a bacterial infection. You could try removing it and giving it an iodine-based dip, but it could be too late for that piece, unfortunately.
