corals dying

Hello, I have been in this hobby about 1 1/2 years. I have had a problem that has occurred 3-4 times, and I don't know why. I have several corals, mushrooms, fish, some xenia, clams in my 75 gallon saltwater tank. I also have a 45 all fish sw tank. I do water changes every 2 weeks. I have a tap water filter, that I make up my freshwater with. I then add salt, amquel, buffer, get the water to the right temperature, then change my water. It take me about 1 hr / 1 1/2 hours to complete. But several times now, when I am done, several of the corals are dead in my tank, and my mushrooms look like I killed them too. My xenia is dead, my trachophyia is dead, the other looks bad, my duncans are hiding, my plate coral looks very rough, my acans look bad if not dead. All my fish are fine. When I do my 45 all fish, I don't have any problem. Any ideas as to what happens everytime I do water change. Everything is fine up until then. Thanks.
 
Any reason you don't use RO or RO/DI? I would never even consider a coral tank without having atleast RO or an equivalent...and no...adding chemical neutralizers and "tap water filters" are not an equivalent.

It could be your water has levels of copper in it...or something else not good for them.
 
Another problem with tap water is your water co. won't tell you when impurities are in your water supply due to weather conditions, or contamination from other sources. The total dissolved solids that I measure in my tap water vary from 200 ppm to 467 ppm so you never can tell.
Lee
 
What type of filter are you using. Some drinking water filters will actually add chemicals back into the water (usually just salts) for taste. I don't know which ones or how common that practice is, but that could be a potential problem. I agree with Fizz71 that RO or better yet, RO/DI water would be a much better choice. Tap water alone usually doesn't kill corals (assuming it's been properly dechlorinated), but I think the filter might actually have something to do with it.

What type of buffer are you using, and have you checked your alkalinity. First of all, some buffers (like one of the Seachem brands) are not well suited for reef tanks. Second, these buffers raise your PH, but they do it by raising alkalinity. If your water becomes to alkaline, it can have detrimental effects on your corals. I'd advise you to stop using the buffer immediately. If you're having PH issues, there are much better ways to solve those that I'd be more than happy to tell you about.

So, in summary, my initial impression is that your problems may have something to do with either the filter you're using or your alkalinity level from adding buffer. If you could post your water parameters (PH, calcium, alkalinity, magnesium, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate), that would be extremely helpful.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12959272#post12959272 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shag26272
how long are you letting the salt water mix for?

+1. It appears from your post that you are mixing up the saltwater and immediately adding it to your tank, rather than mixing your water days in advance and allowing it to age.

You could be suffocating your animals if you're adding saltwater that's just been mixed, especially if you're using RO water as the source.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12959498#post12959498 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by abulgin
+1. It appears from your post that you are mixing up the saltwater and immediately adding it to your tank, rather than mixing your water days in advance and allowing it to age.

You could be suffocating your animals if you're adding saltwater that's just been mixed, especially if you're using RO water as the source.

What does this actually do, I've never heard of ageing saltwater.
 
you dont have to age it, maybe like 6-8 hours would be fine. Its mostly for the PH to stabilize. Also Ive been in the habit of shaking the buckets of salt so its mixed well. I got down to the end of a bucket a few weeks ago and it must have had some settling. RTNed a couple of SPS.
 
it makes sure the salt is fullly disolved before adding it to your display tank. What are you using to measure the salinity? never add newly mixed saltwater unless it is an emergency situation
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12959914#post12959914 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shag26272
you dont have to age it, maybe like 6-8 hours would be fine. Its mostly for the PH to stabilize. Also Ive been in the habit of shaking the buckets of salt so its mixed well. I got down to the end of a bucket a few weeks ago and it must have had some settling. RTNed a couple of SPS.

Well, allowing it to age for 24 hours+ using a power head allows the water to become oxygenated. This is expecially important if you are using RO water. Allowing RO water to aerate drives off carbon dioxide and promotes maximum dissolved oxygen. You may also need to buffer your RO mixed water, depending on whether your salt mix is formulated for use with RO water. Aging the water for 24 hours+ allows you to test the water for pH, alkalinity, and calcium levels.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12960017#post12960017 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by abulgin
Well, allowing it to age for 24 hours+ using a power head allows the water to become oxygenated. This is expecially important if you are using RO water. Allowing RO water to aerate drives off carbon dioxide and promotes maximum dissolved oxygen. You may also need to buffer your RO mixed water, depending on whether your salt mix is formulated for use with RO water. Aging the water for 24 hours+ allows you to test the water for pH, alkalinity, and calcium levels.
+1 good advice
 
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Organic Chemical Contaminants, including synthetic and volatile organic
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septic systems;
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In order to ensure that tap water is safe to drink, EPA prescribes regulations
that limit the amount of certain contaminants in water provided by public water
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of contaminants does not necessarily indicate that water poses a health risk. More
information about contaminants and potential health effects can be obtained by
calling the U.S. EPA’s Safe Drinking Water Hotline (1-800-426-4791).
 
I use a tap water ion exchange filter that hooks up to my sink. I run the water through it, and then ad amquel just to be safe. My parameters are: salinity 1.024, kh 10, ca 420, nitrite 0, nitrate 10, phosphate .2, ammonia is 0, ph 8.4. I make up my water the night before, and let it mix with a small power head overnight until the next afternoon. I have considered an ro or ro/di unit, trying to come up with the funds. It only affects my tank when I do water changes on a larger scale, like 20-24 gallons at a time. When I just do 10, it doesn't seem to bother it. Also, it doesn't bother any of my fish, or when I do the fish only tank.
 
What city or county, you live in or by? I'm almost certain you are getting alot more nitrate than what you are reading. Coral are more sensitive to nitrate than fish. That explain why you are having problems during large water changes. The larger the change, the more nitrate in the water column. Did i say [welcome], hope i could help.
 
I am in South Carolina. As for my ph, it has been 8.4 since I started in the hobby. And it stays at 8.4 every time I test it. I usually run a little high on nitrates, as I have 3 fathead anthias, and they have to eat at least twice a day. I do half a cube each time. I tried only feeding once a day, and I lost them, so, now I do twice a day, which doesn't help nitrates. But when I just do like a 10 gallon water change, I don't have problems.

ps. I am also looking for a ro/di, reasonable. Thanks.
 
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