Dipping instead of QT

[DamnPepShrimp]

Since I am unable to properly QT fish, I don't have the means to put another tank up, especially large enough for angels and tangs, I'm considering dipping before adding to the display. I know I can't cure ich but I can prevent flukes and other diseases from possibly entering the tank. I only buy fish from reputable stores and if they ate healthy and eating. I know diseases can still be present. So what would be the best procedure for dipping? Freshwater for flukes, but what meds could I add, how much and how long to prevent further diseases? I know each fish is different and have diferent tolerances. I'm really looking for what meds to dip angels and tangs. Thank you.

 

[JHemdal]

DamnPepshrimp,

I no longer rely on freshwater dips as a treatment, I use them ONLY as a diagnostic tool to search for parasites in the dip water waste. Time and time again, FW dips have failed to control Cryptocaryon or flukes. Some flukes are egg-layers, and FW apparently does nothing to the eggs attached to the fish's body.

Here is an excerpt from a recent article I wrote about "bad advice" that pertains to this I think:

""Give your fish a 30 minute freshwater dip". There is no justification for performing a freshwater dip longer than 7 minutes, and five is usually tolerated much better. I am amazed to hear a pundit explain how to carefully adjust the temperature and pH of the dip water to that of the tank (to avoid stressing the fish) and then tell the same person to dip the fish for 30 minutes in freshwater….no THAT isn't stressful."

The full article is here:
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/12/review2

As painful as it may be, you need to set up a quarantine tank, OR find one of the few dealers who will quarantine their stock prior to sale (I believe some online vendors do this, as did Old Town Aquarium when I lived in Chicago).

Jay

 

[DamnPepShrimp]

Jay, thank you for the response. I have done the QT method before with great success (also failure) it is a long painful process. But at my current location, I can't have a QT tank, I am limited to the number of tanks I can setup. The biggest I could get away with would be a 10g or so, and with larger tangs and angels, that will do more harm then good. I feel if you don't have the proper QT tank, then your really making it worse on the fish. Having the fish stress free is the best method to keep diseases at bay. I figured I could atleast try and help the process by dipping instead of just adding the fish directly to the display. Dipping is better then nothing, so its worth a shot. What would you reccommend to dip with and how long/how much? Thanks for your time and advice, it is much appreciated!

 

[JHemdal]

I guess I would still opt for a quarantine somehow - at least find a good store that runs copper in their fish systems. FW dips will not have any controlling affect on Cryptocaryon or Uronema.

If you really want to go the FW route, I personally feel that it would preclude you from having fish shipped to you. 28 hours in a styro followed by a FW dip is more than many fish can tolerate.

If you buy the fish locally, with only an hour or so drive home, and the store's tanks are at the same specific gravity as yours, you can acclimate them for temperature, then give them a seven minute FW dip in water that is the same temperature. Then, add them to the tank, discarding ALL of the dip water.


Jay

 

[DamnPepShrimp]

Sorry I havent been able to respond. Only have a quick minute right now. I didn't necessarily have to do a FW dip. I was thinking of using some kind of meds in the dip instead? When I do setup a QT, what should I QT with? I've heard bad things with copier and tangs. I do not intend to cure ich, QT for 6 weeks. I think that puts more stress on the fish and you never get rid of ich.

 

[JHemdal]

Ah,

I was only considering FW dips. You could give a formalin dip instead, for new acquired fish, I would suggest trying 150ppm for 45 minutes, but some people go as high as 166 ppm from one hour. You might get better control over crypt that way, and it might also kill fluke eggs (but I'm not positive on that).

Jay

p.s. - aerate the formalin dip water VERY well during the treatment, and keep the dip container dark and covered while the fish is in there.

 

[DamnPepShrimp]

Ok, sounds good. I just setup a 10g QT tank for my small kole tang. That is the best I could do. I have prazipro in there since it looks like the fish has flukes or something. It looks like his dead skin is literally hanging off. Hopefully he pulls through.

 

[baobao]

Jay,

Don't mean to hijack, but I went to your link , and was curious about, "1. "I drip-acclimated my fish for XX hours just like I was told." XX can be anything from four to eight hours, sometimes more. There are only two specialized instances where acclimation times this lengthy are justified: when moving a fish from lower specific gravity to a tank that is much higher and in cases where the shipment time was in excess of 36 hours. In both of these instances, life support is maintained by aeration and keeping the temperature within range. In the case of lengthy shipments, the pH / ammonia issue must be dealt with."

For transcontinental shipments (> 36 hours), what are your thoughts on just moving the fish immediately out of the bag and into a temporary holding tank that has PH/temperature adjusted water to match the bag and then just some light aeration? (That's my practice).

Is there any way to control the rate of PH change? From my experience, even if I lower the PH to low 6.5, after 8 hours, it is usually at least 7. My concern (dont know if it is valid), is that the PH increases to quickly.