Display tank - algae bloom - (19 wk old 140 gal)

[NancyT3]

Hi there
In my DT tank, 140 gal, ph 7.9, temp 80, ammonia 0 nitrite 0, nitrate <5.0, phosphate < 0.25, calcium 340, kH 143.2, salinity 1.023.
Change water and siphon sand every other week 15%. I mix my own saline using store bought RODI. Last week I went to a LFS store closer to me (just discovered) who sells their RODI for $0.50 per gal vs my normal place at $1.00 per gal. So I got it, Asked many times to confirm RODI. Tested it with a quick strip and no chlorine or any issues that showed it was an issue. Same pH as my normal. Anyway - maybe it is not related, but I am suspicious that this introduced something driving this algae bloom. It just happened two days ago. Water change was last Thursday.

I have reddish bubble algae on the rocks - a few small patches that glow red under the deep blue light at night, and a coating of yellow/brown algae all over rocks and sand. I don't think it is slimy looking - it looks particulate, but it is all over everything. Picture attached under cool white light only. I turned off the lights now to try keeping lights off for three days to see if it stems the spread. I do have a refugium with copapods and chaeto, and there is something new growing in there as well - looks like small white "gummy" things. they are stuck to glass, sump base, pumps, everywhere. I have seen spiral worms on the glass - a few - like spirobid worms that are new as well. Fish and invertebrates all seem to be doing well. I have five hermit crabs, a tuxedo urchin, and 8 trochus snails. Tank include one butterfly, an angel, 3 royal grammas, 1 damsel, 2 clowns, 1 diamond goby (who is awesome)m and four bubble tip anemones.

Any advice? Is this a normal part of tank maturation? Clean up crew additions? Get phytoplankton and pods from Algae barn? Interested in your advice.

BTW my quarantine butterfly is still hanging in there .. Doing well. A nasty looking mouth, but he's eating and swimming. Hopefully his mouth will eventually heal!

Thanks again
Nancy

 

[SantaMonica]

Yes I would say mostly normal for a newer setup.

 

[NancyT3]

Ok - I think it is due to a change in water source to a different LFS, and they might have had silicates or some TDS in the water that I couldn't detect when I tested.. But a couple of thoughts
1. I have no powerheads - so I am thinking about adding 2 for better flow. Any advice on brand/ type? add or not add?
2. I only have 8 snails in the tank, a tuxedo urchin and a diamond watchman goby. Thinking about adding more CUC - proposing 10 Cerith, 10 Nassarius, 1 Tiger conch and a Tail Spot Blenny to the tank. Any watchouts on these with other tankmates?
3. I do not have any UV. What are the pros and cons of UV treatment? Will that kill the copepods or good biome?

Thanks
Nancy

 

[griss]

1. Yes on adding powerheads IMO - if on a budget, check Amazon for Jebao and Hygger. I’ve used both and been happy with them.

2. I don’t see any reason not to add a few more and what you’ve listed sounds reasonable.

3. In 40+ years in the hobby I’ve never used UV.

 

[Timfish]

Well, this is what I'd expect of a new system set up with dry rock and sand with just basic nitrifying bacteria added. Assuming you haven't added any maricultued or wild live rock I'd add some. I'd add more corals also to compete with the nuisance algae. They should be easy species and they don't necessarily need to be species you're going to keep long term. More urchins would be helpful. you can use steel straws to scrap algae off the rocks like urchins do when you do water changes (basicily duplicating what's done on reefs to help restore them). It's messy but paper towels are a good way to remove the algae that grows on the glass, magnets and scrapers only knock it off and some resettles almost immediately.

 

[griss]

Well, this is what I'd expect of a new system set up with dry rock and sand with just basic nitrifying bacteria added. Assuming you haven't added any maricultued or wild live rock I'd add some. I'd add more corals also to compete with the nuisance algae. They should be easy species and they don't necessarily need to be species you're going to keep long term. More urchins would be helpful. you can use steel straws to scrap algae off the rocks like urchins do when you do water changes (basicily duplicating what's done on reefs to help restore them). It's messy but paper towels are a good way to remove the algae that grows on the glass, magnets and scrapers only knock it off and some resettles almost immediately.

Paper towels, huh? Never heard or thought of that. I'll have to give it a try sometime.

 

[NancyT3]

Thanks ! My tank started with live rock and sand, but not "wild" live rock. I will try the paper towels! I love my urchin. Wasn't sure if they would compete... Any recommendations on coral? I don't have any -- just BTA.

Nancy

 

[griss]

Easy to keep and somewhat inexpensive corals would be things like Zoanthids, Mushroom corals, Xenia, Anthelia, Leather Corals, Green Star Polyps, etc.

Here's a good article.

 

[Timfish]

Paper towels, huh? Never heard or thought of that. I'll have to give it a try sometime.

Blue paper shop towels work the best.

 

[SantaMonica]

I like keeping a UV in the closet, and bringing it out when adding new fish.

 

[Hong Kong]

Your aquarium need asap moving flows all around. Strong flow change direction regularly and as new tank soon will
all this gone be sure. Do not scratch with magnet cleaned glass as soon or later will catch some small sand and you will
scratch glass than forgot scratch will remain.

 

[Hong Kong]

Regarding the UV light - if you dont have quarantine tank and placing animals ect directly from shop to aquarium I will suggest to start
preparing small tank with UV light passing through water in especially when some fish is showing first signs of sickness.
In main tank you can use UV to get clear water free of any bacterias that can grow but if allready tank is poisoned UV will not help
a lot as UV control only what is passing through their lamp in suspension of water.

As you are buying RO water i will suggest to pass all through UV light few hours to recirculating to kill all bacteria ect.

I oredered small 15 W UV and will work 24 h after first month of cycling will be ready. Prevention is first.
This UV is good you can look directly in light no harm radiation and its perfect to luminate quarantine tank as well or sump on top.

Read a little more details on link.
hw UV - Steriliser 500 15 watts