DIY Pipe Filter

[NicoleC]

The recipe I have for a DIY pipe filter uses 2" PVC, which is just not available locally. There's 2" ABS, but no fittings. As long as I was having to downsize fo 1 1/2", I decided to go with a thinner material -- plumbing pipe!

I still need to make one modification -- more on that below.

First, the parts list:
double ended extension tube (1 1/2") with both sets of nuts and washers (I used a 16" tube, but other sizes are available)
wall tube (1 1/2")
1 pair knee high stockings
carbon
biomedia -- I went with ceramic
1/4" rigid tubing
scrap of plastic canvas
scrap of toile

Here's the double ended extension tube and the wall tube.

STEP 1:
Cut the plastic canvas into a circle which fits snuggly inside the nut, past the last threading.

Snap the plastic canvas grill into the nut, and then place the washer inside.

The nut, grill and washer will screw onto the end of the pipe.

 

[NicoleC]

STEP 2:

Place carbon inside one of the knee highs and knot it into a bag, cutting off the end.

Rinse well and place in the pipe next to the grill.

STEP 3:

Collect your biomedia.

I chose to break up the media so I could fit more in the pipe. A gentle tap on the side with a hammer will break ceramic media quite easily. Use too much force, and you will pulverize the media.

Feed the other knee high down the pipe and fold over the edge.

Rinse the biomedia well and pour into the pipe. Knot the end and cut off excess.

 

[NicoleC]

STEP 4:
Set the other washer aside. The wall tube has a built-in washer. Slide the nut onto the end of the wall tube and push down to where the elbow is.

Screw the nut in place.

STEP 5:
Drill a hole on the inside of the elbow at a slight angle inward. 3/16" is the correct size drill bit, but if you don't use a drill much I suggest starting with a 11/64" bit, since if you don't hold the drill steady it will make a bigger hole. Once the 11/64 pilot hole is drilled, verify that the tubing will not fit in the hole, then proceed to the 3/16" bit.

 

[NicoleC]

STEP 6:
Slightly bend the end of the rigid tubing.

Insert the tubing into the drilled hole (should be a very snug fit) and turn the tubing so that the bent end clears the elbow and the air will rise straight up.

Cable tie the rigid tubing to the wall tube.

 

[NicoleC]

Okay, at this point I need something to restrict the water flow. Right now, it looks like it is easier for the water to enter AND exit the riser tube instead of being pulled from the other end.

Any ideas?

Meanwhile, once I place it in the tank, it was about 14 seconds before the curious clowns were checking it. I covered the end of the riser tube with a scrap of toile to prevent a baby from getting inside and getting disoriented.

It took about 1 hour to make this, including figuring out what I was going to do and taking photos. Very easy! The design just needs to be tweaked a bit to make it work right.

 

[David M]

Very nice but I have one concern, you got the idea from Edgar, right? WHAT is Edgar doing with knee high stockings ???

Ok, ok, getting serious. To solve your problem I'd not worry about drilling the hole and inserting the rigid tube in it, it really doesn't accomplish anything anyway. Just stick the tube right down the center of the upright pipe and use an airstone at the end, this will fill the tube with air bubbles and create an upward current across the whole standpipe and keep water from moving downward in there. Then if you lift the whole thing up (or extend the upright) to where it is just at or slightly above the waters surface water has to come from the other end, and no babies can get in. Also carbon is very restrictive to water not under pressure, make sure it isn't tightly packed or even do without it, your neeed is bio-filtration right? Just a little carbon in the very end maybe?

 

[NicoleC]

Hee hee -- Edgar's design bears little resemblance to my bastard stepchild version. Actually, I'm a computer geek and don't have any knee highs in my wardrobe either, but they are very cheap compared to "media bags" sold to the hobby, and not that much different.

Yes, I just put a little carbon in the one end. That's the easy end to unscrew, since you'd want to replace the carbon regularly. The part about drilling the hole and everything was kind of gilding the frog, I guess. Most commerical ones do it that way, and I'd just as soon buy fewer airstones.

There is quite a bit of air coming out the top. It's evenly spaced when it comes out the top. Now, do smaller bubbles have an advantage over larger, given the SAME amount of air?

I thought about raising it up the end of the tube. That's easily done -- and even adjustable -- with an extender tube.

 

[ediaz]

The part I don't get is where do you hook up the garbage disposer

To overcome the flow problem the lift tube must be at least half the size of the filter.

David, I don't have much experience with knee high stockings, I insist on fishnets thigh high and garter belt. For the filter I break down and buy filter bags.

Ed

 

[NicoleC]

Ah, then the extension should do the trick, I think, but I will have to get out the tape measure. If not, I can swap out for a 12" tube instead.

 

[ricordiaking]

I love your design Nicole it looks great.

 

[CanesDave]

What advantage would this filter have over a large sponge filter in the tank? To me it seems easier for maintenance just to wring out a sponge filter than to use this. Just my .02.

 

[ediaz]

The filter it is not targeted to clownfish/larvae. It derives from a model used by goldfish farms with high bioloads.

She was asking for an economical, easy to make supplemental filter to leave the fish a few days and no water changes could be made. I sent her the design, wich she modified for lack of parts.

You can just keep using what you are using now, the sponge after meta is that is what you use.

This is not the next big thing in larval tank filtration.

Ed