does this look alright for a sump / refuge.
- Thread starter ej1698
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joshuaroot
New member
i woulden't run the fiter pads though hold to much bad stuff in the long run
CoolUsername
New member
Re: does this look alright for a sump / refuge.
Looks good, however I'm hesitant about the first filter pad. 1st this will keep detritus from getting to the fuge which is desirable. Second if it clogs, your chamber 1 or chamber 2(left most) will overflow. Easy way to fix it is lower the height of the baffles the go to the top. Or at least drill some holes in it near the top for a backup plan.
If you go without filter pads: For the bubble trap - I believe under over under would be better. Bubbles get filtered in downward flows. Upward flows just carry bubbles. Making downward flows slower increases bubble filtering. Because of this make the downward flow sections larger and the upward smaller (just large enough to clean). A lot of people just evenly space the baffles which isn't as effective as it could be in the same given space.
Doing under over under makes the skimmer section your first downward flow section of the bubble trap.
Also I believe you can safely fit any one of a large array of commercial skimmers in the first compartment in case you want to (or have to) try something else down the road.
Looks good, however I'm hesitant about the first filter pad. 1st this will keep detritus from getting to the fuge which is desirable. Second if it clogs, your chamber 1 or chamber 2(left most) will overflow. Easy way to fix it is lower the height of the baffles the go to the top. Or at least drill some holes in it near the top for a backup plan.
If you go without filter pads: For the bubble trap - I believe under over under would be better. Bubbles get filtered in downward flows. Upward flows just carry bubbles. Making downward flows slower increases bubble filtering. Because of this make the downward flow sections larger and the upward smaller (just large enough to clean). A lot of people just evenly space the baffles which isn't as effective as it could be in the same given space.
Doing under over under makes the skimmer section your first downward flow section of the bubble trap.
Also I believe you can safely fit any one of a large array of commercial skimmers in the first compartment in case you want to (or have to) try something else down the road.
drouner
New member
I am going to tag along as I am building one myself.
From my many discussions about design, you want at least some of the "junk" to get to the refug. A lot should collect in the first chamber and you just clean it out.
I am going to add a filter sock over the incoming water pipe. I am not going to have true refug, but just go with LR.
I was looking at a $270 acrylic sump that used the bubble trap that CoolUserName described. I will probably go that direction.
From my many discussions about design, you want at least some of the "junk" to get to the refug. A lot should collect in the first chamber and you just clean it out.
I am going to add a filter sock over the incoming water pipe. I am not going to have true refug, but just go with LR.
I was looking at a $270 acrylic sump that used the bubble trap that CoolUserName described. I will probably go that direction.
killingseed
New member
i dont know if this help but is a drawing for one i am try to get built(glasscages) or build myself (glass) just havent made up my mind, doesnt show but i was planing on adding a sock on the waterflowing in to the skimmer side only.
wish i could find a used tank with the messurement like or even new for that fac, the local store never have just what i want and is the only reason i am thinking of just letting glasscages do it.
wish i could find a used tank with the messurement like or even new for that fac, the local store never have just what i want and is the only reason i am thinking of just letting glasscages do it.
dngspot
Premium Member
I have tried to use filter material in my 50 gallon sump. Bad idea, if the pad does get plugged you will have a monster mess on your hands. This can happen unexped and you will have an empty refigium and water on your floor. I use floss in my overflow, but it is built so the tank will take all of the water in my pump chaimber and not overflow. I do run the risk of loosing my pump though.
latazyo
New member
when doing baffle spacing, make the space between an over and an under larger than the spacing between an under and an over
the wider the distance, the slower the water moves, if you make downward flowing water move slower more bubbles will have time to escape and it'll be more efficient....
also, bubbles can't escape in water that is moving up...why not have more down baffles than up baffles?
the wider the distance, the slower the water moves, if you make downward flowing water move slower more bubbles will have time to escape and it'll be more efficient....
also, bubbles can't escape in water that is moving up...why not have more down baffles than up baffles?
CoolUsername
New member
Here is my sump design If you're curious. It's 36" L x 15.5"W x 17"H
CoolUsername
New member
My water level is designed pretty high, but my skimmer is designed to run this way and I have enough room for drain and return water when the main pump is off. I also have a 43" tall cabinet so I have lots of room above it.
outy
New member
i did 2 baffles in my old 50g tank
1 for the skimmer [the highest]
1 for the return [ 2" lower]
spacing much like yours allthough my return section is only 4" [just big enough for the mag 9.5]
done no hassles, saves space no need for filter pads and with 400-500 gph no worries about bubbles in the display.
simple, oh if your worried about junk in the sump/fuge go BB and suck every but of junk out when you do water changes. works for me
1 for the skimmer [the highest]
1 for the return [ 2" lower]
spacing much like yours allthough my return section is only 4" [just big enough for the mag 9.5]
done no hassles, saves space no need for filter pads and with 400-500 gph no worries about bubbles in the display.
simple, oh if your worried about junk in the sump/fuge go BB and suck every but of junk out when you do water changes. works for me
Driftwood
New member
I noticed that your heater was in the return chamber. You might want that somewhere else unless you have an auto-top-off. As your system evaporates water the return chamber is going to go down in level. You do not want that heater to come up out of the water or it will break.
I used to use a 200 micron filter bag for awhile. It was such a pain to take it off everyother day and rinse it out. It would baloon up after the first day from all the holes getting clogged up. I also read about some filter feeders eating particles larger then 200 microns and didn't want to take the chance that they wouldn't get feed.
Best of luck!
I used to use a 200 micron filter bag for awhile. It was such a pain to take it off everyother day and rinse it out. It would baloon up after the first day from all the holes getting clogged up. I also read about some filter feeders eating particles larger then 200 microns and didn't want to take the chance that they wouldn't get feed.
Best of luck!
