Fallow period?

davidfrances

New member
After detecting an outbreak of Ich in one of my display tanks, I am now in day 43 of a 70 day fallow period for my DT, a 250 gallon Marineland DD. I've kept it fallow since 7 July 2013, and have maintained the system per my normal maintenance schedules. Corals and invertebrates are doing fine; during the fallow period my pod and stometella populations have exploded.

All my fish were removed on 7 July 2013 and placed in a separate quarantine system utilizing hyposalinity. It took me about a week to lower the salinity from 1.026 to 1.009 sp. gr. units. I have ATO's on all my tanks that keep SG very constant. All my fish have been spot free since 27 July 2013. Assuming I see no evidence of infestation, I plan on beginning to increase the salinity back to DT normal on 27 August 2013 at 0.002 per day.

Specifics for the tank follow:
1. How old is this aquarium? Set up and cycled began on 4 March 2013
2. If less than six months old, what is ammonia level? 0.00, measured via a Sera Aquarium test kit; nitrite and nitrate are both at 0.00 as well, using the same brand of test kit. pH is 8.1
3. What is SG of this aquarium? 1.026 sp. Gr. Units How measured? Via a refractometer
a. I maintain the temperature on the DT and the Q-system between 78-80 degrees F
4. When was the last fish added to this aquarium? 16 June 2013, Red Coris Wrasse (Coris gaimard)
5. Was it quarantined? Yes If so, how? Separate Q-system running at 1.026 sp. gr. Units for 30 days. He never showed signs of infection and was certainly spot free when he was placed in my DT. And how long? 30 days Was it prophylactically treated? No. How?
6. If you are using a copper based medication, which one? How often do you measure level? When? N/A
7. If you are using hyposalinity, how did you calibrate your refractometer? Salinity calibration fluid
8. Please describe in detail, the appearance of the fish? If there is one or more pimples, are they lumpy? Multiple pustules on the body an especially the fins What color? White
9. Please describe the behavior of the fish as best you can. Is it acting reclusive? Is it always up towards the top of the aquarium? Is it avoiding light? How active is the fish? Only my Tusk, Sailfin Tang and Annularis ever showed signs of infection; none of the other fish displayed any outward signs of infection. It seemed touch and go for a while with my Tusk, he became very lethargic during the SG drawdown, but perked back up as soon as the SG hit 1.009 and his fins cleared up.
10. Is the fish eating? What? Yes, everything I give them including pellets and frozen foods

Stocking list "โ€œ now in Quarantine:
Harlequin Tusk (Choerodon fasciatus);
Sailfin Tang, Desjardini (Zebrasoma desjardini);
5x Spotted Cardinalfish (Sphaeramia nematoptera);
Blue Girdled Angelfish (Pomacanthus navarchus);
Annularis Angelfish (Pomacanthus annularis) - tank raised juvenile;
Yellowstripe Maroon Clownfish (Premnas biaculeatus);
Red Coris Wrasse (Coris gaimard)


Fortunately, I didn't lose any fish, a first for me!

About 2-3 times a week in my DT, I blast the rockwork with a stream of water and stir up the sand bed.

With respect to the DT, is there anything else I should be doing to encourage true death for the tomont, or to encourage the tomites to hatch and die upon failing to find a sufficient host?

It was a massive PITA to tear apart my rockwork and catch all my fish; I'd rather not repeat that little adventure again. What else should I be doing to my DT to encourage death among the tomonts?
 
With respect to the DT, is there anything else I should be doing to encourage true death for the tomont, or to encourage the tomites to hatch and die upon failing to find a sufficient host?

It's pretty much a waiting game at this point. I am going through the same process, but am going to do my fallow period for 11 weeks to make absolutely sure the tomonts are eradicated.
 
+1
Time is your friend.

As far as your hypo tank goes, I would calibrate your refractometer to DI water - the calibration curve for refractometers is not always liner or perfect, so it is best to calibrate as close to your desired SG as possible. Normally calibration fluid (1.026) is perfect. For a hypo treatment tank, DI is closer and more accurate. (see this article by Randy Holmes-Farley.)

I'm sorry for your headaches - your story is an example of why I choose to prophylactically treat rather than observe in QT. I hope the remainder of your treatment goes well and you can get back to enjoying your DT!
 
+1
Time is your friend.

As far as your hypo tank goes, I would calibrate your refractometer to DI water - the calibration curve for refractometers is not always liner or perfect, so it is best to calibrate as close to your desired SG as possible. Normally calibration fluid (1.026) is perfect. For a hypo treatment tank, DI is closer and more accurate. (see this article by Randy Holmes-Farley.)

I'm sorry for your headaches - your story is an example of why I choose to prophylactically treat rather than observe in QT. I hope the remainder of your treatment goes well and you can get back to enjoying your DT!

Thank you, oddly enough, I double checked my refractometer with DI water this evening, and it read exactly 1.000 I certainly don't have lab grade equipment, and it's even more likely that my DI source or my calibration fluid is contaminated.
 
It's pretty much a waiting game at this point. I am going through the same process, but am going to do my fallow period for 11 weeks to make absolutely sure the tomonts are eradicated.

Thank you, I too may wait 11 weeks, just to be safe. What I was really looking for is insight into what triggers dormant tomonts to release tomites?
 

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