sandalscout
New member
T & T (and everyone else),
Here is the plans for the feed timer. As a recap, I used:
6' outdoor heavy duty extension cord
heavy duty waterproof electrical box (solid face plate) and gasket
120VAC/10amp Relay http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...99&kwCatId=2032058&kw=relay&parentPage=search
Intermatic 60 Minute Timer Switch http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...Id=10053&productId=100001546&N=10000003+90401
Okay, so the basic of this is simple. The Timer Switch is normally off, and when you twist it, it turns the circuit on and the counts down and turns back off. What we are doing is using the relay to open the contact and reverse the on/off state from the switch.
First thing to do is cut about 6" of the extension cord out of the middle. This will give you 3 pieces of cord, 1 6" with no plugends, and then 2 pieces just shy of 3' with one end each. My cord had color coded wires:
Green=Ground
Wire=Neutral
Black=Hot
Separate the 3 strands of wire from the 6" section, we are only going to use the white and black wires. Strip the ends off of these two wires (about 1/2") and also strip the ends off the 3 strands in the two longer pieces. You will probably want to remove about 3-5" of the sheaf on the longer cords also.
The remaining steps you will want to do within the box, feed the 2 cords into the box.
Using wingnuts, twist the green (ground) wires in the t longer pieces together and secure. We will then wire both the neutral and hot into the relay. You will make all connections to the relay using fully insulated quick disconnects (available @ Radio Shack), I believe the posts on the relay are 3/16", but they might be 1/4".
The Relay is laid out like this, if you lay it on it's top, the connectors are:
- -
- -
- -
| |
I'm going to call them (the package also labels them):
1 2
3 4
5 6
7 8
And they are hooked up as such:
1=switch bottom plug (It shouldn't matter which side of the switch it's hooked up to)
2=white power/#4
3=black power/switch bottom
4=white power/#2
5=not used
6=not used
7=black outlet
8=white outlet
So, just in case your not sure, what happens is that #3 #4 are seperate sides of the circuit, both are "normally closed" until power is applied through the coil on #7 and #8. When this power is cut, the relay is not energized, and the power is diverted to #5 and #6 which is not used. If you needed to power something else on during the time this switch is enabled, simply wire a second outlet to #5 and #6.
First, let hook up the three wires on the cord that plugs into the wall:
Green -> Green on the outlet cord (already completed)
White -> Connects to both #4 and #2 (use the short 6" wire and a wire nut to split this into a Y)
Black -> Connects to both #3 and one side of the switch (use the short 6" wire and a wire nut to split this into a Y)
Then hook up the Outlet Cord as follows:
Green -> Already Completed
White -> #8
Black -> #7
The wiring part is all completed and hooked up, simply stuff the switch and relay into the switch box. The two fit side by side in the box I used, and I was able to simply drill a hole in the top of the box for the switch arm.
This is probably over complicated, I'm not very good at describing things. If someone needs, I can take a few pictures that might help. I did borrow heavily from this site: http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=8915&hl and there are pictures of this setup about halfway down or so (ignore the first section with the trimming of the switch assembly, this was a first attempt that didn't work out for them). There is also a mention of an OEM switch that has reverse function which would eliminate much of this wiring.
Let me know if you need ANYTHING else with this. Please be careful, standard disclaimers apply!
Matthew
Here is the plans for the feed timer. As a recap, I used:
6' outdoor heavy duty extension cord
heavy duty waterproof electrical box (solid face plate) and gasket
120VAC/10amp Relay http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...99&kwCatId=2032058&kw=relay&parentPage=search
Intermatic 60 Minute Timer Switch http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...Id=10053&productId=100001546&N=10000003+90401
Okay, so the basic of this is simple. The Timer Switch is normally off, and when you twist it, it turns the circuit on and the counts down and turns back off. What we are doing is using the relay to open the contact and reverse the on/off state from the switch.
First thing to do is cut about 6" of the extension cord out of the middle. This will give you 3 pieces of cord, 1 6" with no plugends, and then 2 pieces just shy of 3' with one end each. My cord had color coded wires:
Green=Ground
Wire=Neutral
Black=Hot
Separate the 3 strands of wire from the 6" section, we are only going to use the white and black wires. Strip the ends off of these two wires (about 1/2") and also strip the ends off the 3 strands in the two longer pieces. You will probably want to remove about 3-5" of the sheaf on the longer cords also.
The remaining steps you will want to do within the box, feed the 2 cords into the box.
Using wingnuts, twist the green (ground) wires in the t longer pieces together and secure. We will then wire both the neutral and hot into the relay. You will make all connections to the relay using fully insulated quick disconnects (available @ Radio Shack), I believe the posts on the relay are 3/16", but they might be 1/4".
The Relay is laid out like this, if you lay it on it's top, the connectors are:
- -
- -
- -
| |
I'm going to call them (the package also labels them):
1 2
3 4
5 6
7 8
And they are hooked up as such:
1=switch bottom plug (It shouldn't matter which side of the switch it's hooked up to)
2=white power/#4
3=black power/switch bottom
4=white power/#2
5=not used
6=not used
7=black outlet
8=white outlet
So, just in case your not sure, what happens is that #3 #4 are seperate sides of the circuit, both are "normally closed" until power is applied through the coil on #7 and #8. When this power is cut, the relay is not energized, and the power is diverted to #5 and #6 which is not used. If you needed to power something else on during the time this switch is enabled, simply wire a second outlet to #5 and #6.
First, let hook up the three wires on the cord that plugs into the wall:
Green -> Green on the outlet cord (already completed)
White -> Connects to both #4 and #2 (use the short 6" wire and a wire nut to split this into a Y)
Black -> Connects to both #3 and one side of the switch (use the short 6" wire and a wire nut to split this into a Y)
Then hook up the Outlet Cord as follows:
Green -> Already Completed
White -> #8
Black -> #7
The wiring part is all completed and hooked up, simply stuff the switch and relay into the switch box. The two fit side by side in the box I used, and I was able to simply drill a hole in the top of the box for the switch arm.
This is probably over complicated, I'm not very good at describing things. If someone needs, I can take a few pictures that might help. I did borrow heavily from this site: http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=8915&hl and there are pictures of this setup about halfway down or so (ignore the first section with the trimming of the switch assembly, this was a first attempt that didn't work out for them). There is also a mention of an OEM switch that has reverse function which would eliminate much of this wiring.
Let me know if you need ANYTHING else with this. Please be careful, standard disclaimers apply!
Matthew
