Filtration needs for 75g reef tank

[boogs79]

I have a 75g tank with an emperor 400 and about 13lbs of live rock. I've only been up and running for about a month with 4 damsels, and water parameters have remained stable. When should I consider another filtration method?

 

[jasontammy]

PM sent. Jason

 

[Mariner]

boogs,
A lot depends on what you are intending to keep. If you want to have reef tank with corals and other inverts, you probably need about 60 more pounds of live rock and a good skimmer. If you're just planning on keeping fish, you could stay with what you've got, although a skimmer would help matters.
Other issues to consider if you're going reef include additional circulation and adequate lighting.
HTH,
Mariner

 

[8BALL_99]

For a Reef about 1 LB of Live Rock per gallon is a very rough guide line. Depends on the rock of course but that gives you some idea. Like Tomoko and H@rry suggested in your other thread though. You don't have to use all live rock.. You can mix base rock with the live rock. All of it will become live after a while. BTW dense heavy is not what you want. The lighter the rock means the more porous it is. You want porous rock cause all the little holes add more surfaces for bacteria. The more bacteria the more filtering that one piece of rock does.

A decent skimmer will makes things easier on you.

 

[boogs79]

In the future I definitely would like coral & inverts along with fish. Can the bio wheel handle that load?

 

[brandon2432]

no. some people use bio balls, but with enough live rock you don't need them. Buying more rock is the best way because you will probably want more anyway. The more surface area the better for bacteria.

 

[Mariner]

I agree with Brandon.
A biowheel is good for a fish only tank, but not a reef. It is a very efficient biofilter, processing ammonia and nitrite very well, but that tends to result in a build up of nitrate. Fish don't mind nitrate, but a lot of inverts and corals do. So, as you add live rock you'll want to ditch the biowheel.
HTH,
Mariner

 

[boogs79]

What type of filter would you recommend? 75g reef & fish

 

[Tomoko Schum]

The majority of us reef keepers do not have any mechanical filtration device in our tanks except for a skimmer. We use live rocks and sand as the main filtration device (biological filtration.) Some people adds chemical filtration such as activated carbon and/or phosphate remover granules. They may put them in a bag in a high flow area of their tank/sump or in a canister filter, its own reactor, or a power filter like yours. Some of us use chemical filtration only as needed. Another popular thing that you might consider is a refugium with macroalgae on a reverse light period to the main tank. Macroalgae take up excess nutrients in your water and produce oxygen for your livestock. It consume CO2 which tends to depress the tank water pH as well. Having a refugium on a reverse photo period helps to maintain the pH of your tank stable.

Tomoko

 

[Shelby2u]

A good protein skimmer, lots of live rock and water movement is all I use.

 

[8BALL_99]

You won't really need any filter for a reef other then a skimmer. The live rock does your filtration. The natural bacteria in the rock takes the fish waste and breaks it down into nitrogen gas and then just escapes out of the tank. Bio balls and bio wheels have a type of bacteria that just converts the ammonia and nitrite to nitrates. They work very well at it but the problem is your stuck with the nitrates. Nitrates are the lesser evil but still very Evil in a reef tank. LR takes longer to establish and takes much more of it but the process leaves you with nothing else to remove.

 

[Tomoko Schum]

I always wondered about the validity of live rock's ability to do denitrification. Water just cannot permeate dense rocks to get to the interior part of it. Experts are now saying that it's not possible. After all nitrate builds up in our tanks eventually if we don't skim out organic matter and use macroalgae, certain bacteria, and corals to consume nitrate. A high nitrate is bad for both coral and other livestock as 8Ball said. However, it's easy to remove nitrate - just do water changes People go through all sorts of trouble and expense to avoid water changes, but it's the simplest and easiest thing to do to remove nitrate and other impurities out of our tanks.

Tomoko

 

[H@rry]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14162513#post14162513 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Tomoko Schum
People go through all sorts of trouble and expense to avoid water changes, but it's the simplest and easiest thing to do to remove nitrate and other impurities out of our tanks.

Tomoko

Amen, it's so simple most people don't want to even think about it. Plus, a WC replenishes trace elements that some people like to put in from little bottles and jars.

 

[boogs79]

I just got back from CRA where I purchased some live rock. John & Henry were very nice & helpful! My 75g tank is not "reef ready",so the question is whether or not I should get my tank drilled or purchase a new tank. I left with a great feeling about CRA, but a terrible feeling about my tank & filltration.

 

[H@rry]

Those are not your only options. You can always use overflow boxes. A lot of people are very critical of them but when used properly they are trouble-free. I have been using two for 9 years. I never have overflows or floods.

 

[boogs79]

Thanks Harry, Do you have any pics of your overflow? Cosmetically how does it look?

 

[Tomoko Schum]

You can run a tank without a sump. There are a number of fine looking sumpless reef tanks with hang-on-tank skimmers.

Some people get a reliable overflow box instead of drilling a tank. I know John at CRA does not like overflow boxes since he used to use those that did not work well . I have a friend who runs his tank with an overflow box without a problem. Having a sump is nice since it gives you an extra amount of water for added stability and a place to hide equipment like a heater strip and a skimmer.

In order to drill your tank, you should empty it first. As long as the back glass plate is not tempered, you can get it drilled. I have seen a number of tanks drilled in the back. The bottom of the tank is often tempered, though.

A lot of people get really hooked on reefing and start getting more tanks or keep on upgrading to bigger tanks. You can go ahead and keep your 75 the way it is for now and get a RR tank when you upgrade. You have a lot to learn in the mean time. If you think that the economy is not on your side to get a RR tank in any near future, you can consider drilling the 75. I believe that Henry at CRA drilled a number tanks and there are NARC members, such as 8Ball, who can give you a pointer for drilling tanks. I understand that you can drill it yourself with a specially diamond bit. I hear you have to go slow and steady pouring some water at the glass plate periodically to keep the drill bit lubricated and cool. I am sure there are other tricks to the job. I hope other people will help you with that if you decide to drill your tank yourself.

Tomoko

 

[Tomoko Schum]

Most of the overflow boxes I've seen are pretty inconsicuous. The overflow(s) on a RR tank can look ugly if the exposed part is partially covered with coralline algae.

Tomoko

 

[boogs79]

I am going to think about this for a few more weeks, I would like to see some tanks with overflow boxes before the big decision! Thanks again Tomoko, I told Henry you have given me very helpful advise & referred me to CRA!

 

[Tomoko Schum]

You're welcome. Others here have given you good advice, too. We are here to help each other. I hope you can come to our meeting in the near future.

Tomoko