Final TBS Preparation ?s

[tonyh67]

Couple final questions. Water has been in the tank for a couple of weeks, all mixed, heated, circulating. Skimmer, pumps, heater, all good to go.

I have a 24" hanging hood, two VHO bulbs and a 175w metal halide bulb. What is good starting point for distance above the water line for this fixture? The tank is a 29 gallon.

The water is a bit cloudy, and the inside of the tank has a film. Before the TBS rock goes in, should I change the water or just clean the glass? I was not planning on a power filter, should I be? Will the water stay clear without one once the tank is cycled/established? I am using RO/DI water and Reef Crystals.

There is white buildup on the titanium heater, looks like corrosion...white chalky, but does not wipe off. Is this normal so soon?

Any reason you couldn't pre-cycle the tank doing the cocktail shrimp trick? Wouldn't this help prepare for the live rock? Am I correct in thinking though, without something(sand, sponge filter, or other) for the bacteria to live on...it wouldn't do much good? Or, are the bacteria capable of living just in the water column?

I expect a couple of more weeks yet before ordering the rock.

 

[kp1917]

What is in your tank? I had mine up for three weeks before I received the first part of the package and my water was crystal clear. I would test your ph., ammonia and NItrates / Nitrites, just to see if everything is ok and to get the practice. I'm pretty sure that the bacteria has to live on something.

 

[hdtran]

You generally want your MH's at least 10" off of your water surface, but that's a rule of thumb.

No need for a power filter. Your protein skimmer and circulation do your filtration, along with the biological filtration from the LR & LS.

The white build up on the heater & film is just precipitating calcium carbonate from your saltwater mix. You may need to increase circulation a bit (won't be an issue once you turn on the skimmer, though). When atmospheric CO2 dissolves in seawater, calcium carbonate precipitates out. You'll also see a film on your glass, which is the same thing. Once you have live things in your tank, the bacteria form a film on the particles, which cause the cloudiness to sink.

Don't worry about the cocktail shrimp trick. Plenty of live stuff on the LS & LR to kickstart your nitrogen cycle.

 

[delta]

especially if you mixed the salt in the tank the white film would be normal
if you dont already have your skimmer pumps etc running would be a good idea to run for airation etc. as well as a good test period to check for stray voltage leaks in plumbing and what not.

As Hdtran stated wouldn t worry about pre-cycle remember its already pre-cycled in the ocean

As for the halide i wouldn t run that untill you cycle the tank then faze it in slowly over a couple weeks just run your VHOs on a limited light period as well to prevent excessive algae buildup

I am sure you can t wait
good luck

 

[tonyh67]

Yep, I mixed the salt in the tank.

I have been running the pumps and skimmer(Remora w/Maxi 1200) quite a bit, what is the best(meaning most economical) way to check for stray voltage?

 

[MrKite]

what is the best(meaning most economical) way to check for stray voltage?

Most economical? Stick your tongue in the water.

Just kidding!

Here's a good article:

http://www.aquarium.net/996/996_5.shtml

Hope this helps,

--Charlie Henderson

 

[tonyh67]

I got the Fluke out...getting a reading of about 13 VAC. When I plug the titanium heater in, the voltage drops to .3 or .4...because the heater is grounded correct? Is this a good thing, am I safe or do I need to do more?

 

[delta]

you should probably try and locate the problem unplug the heater then test and unplug the rest of the equiptment one at a time.
better to know where its coming from so you can deal with it although the heater is removing the voltage the problem still exists