I have been battling high levels of Phosphates for well over a year. The levels often hit 2.50ppm, which is the highest reading on my Hanna Checker. So the levels could be higher. I bought a Salifert kit which goes to 3.00ppm, and my water has been that high.
Most of the information I've seen, the target PO4 is ~0.03ppm, for a mixed reef. This is especially true for an SPS dominated tank. I mostly have zoas, softies, nems, and other lps. The majority of the time everything looks pretty good. Of course, I see slow growth in the few sps I have.
My Feeding Schedule is: 1 cube mysis, small pinch of pellet food /1day, and 2"x3" sheet of nori /2day. All respectable name brand foods. Food is gone in less than 1 minute.
I would say I have a lite to medium bio-load.
Obviously, phosphates get into a system in 2 ways:
1 - adding food to the system
2 - adding livestock (we just hope it doesn't die, and add it's phosphates to the system).
I've tried a couple methods to reduce phosphates, without changing my feeding schedule.
1 - Phosphate RX (Lanthanum chloride)
I've always had this imbalance. It has limited the growth rate of beneficial bacteria (requiring NO3 and PO4), which would then be skimmed out of the system, reducing both NO4+PO4. Because I have next to no NO3 in my system, the good bacteria is slower to grow. Instead I have Dinoflagellates (requiring only PO4), outcompeting the macro algae in my 25g refugium.
I was discussing this with some local reefers, the other day.
Something I'm always wondering about is my feeding schedule. Is it enough or too much. They said it was even a bit on the lite side. When I told them what I feed, they both asked me what I did with the frozen cube of mysis. I've always put it in a little mesh pouch and clip it with a magnet clip. They both said that's a problem. The frozen mysis should be thawed and rinsed before use. I had heard that before, but didn't feel it was necessary.
I figured I'd start taking some measurements and see the amount of phosphates is in 1 cube of mysis.
- I thawed the cube in 100ml of rodi water.
The phosphate level was 2.50ppm.
I will do this again tomorrow with 200ml, and will increase until I get a reading less then 2.50pp. Then I'll figure out PO4 per Gallon, per cube of mysis shimp. (I'm sure someone on here has already done that...I haven't done a search yet)
Food for thought reefers...rinse your frozen food.
Most of the information I've seen, the target PO4 is ~0.03ppm, for a mixed reef. This is especially true for an SPS dominated tank. I mostly have zoas, softies, nems, and other lps. The majority of the time everything looks pretty good. Of course, I see slow growth in the few sps I have.
My Feeding Schedule is: 1 cube mysis, small pinch of pellet food /1day, and 2"x3" sheet of nori /2day. All respectable name brand foods. Food is gone in less than 1 minute.
I would say I have a lite to medium bio-load.
Obviously, phosphates get into a system in 2 ways:
1 - adding food to the system
2 - adding livestock (we just hope it doesn't die, and add it's phosphates to the system).
I've tried a couple methods to reduce phosphates, without changing my feeding schedule.
1 - Phosphate RX (Lanthanum chloride)
Very effective in quickly reducing phosphates, requires a 10micron filter sock to filter out the precipitate (which possibly damages gills). The 10micron socks block quickly and need to be replaced frequently.
2 - GFOI have two Phosban 150 media reactors; configured with the GFO chamber first, and an Activated Carbon in the second chamber.
The GFO works fairly well in getting the phosphates down. I use about 1cup GFO, which is exhausted, and needs to be changed in roughly 1-3 weeks.
3 - Vinegar dosing (the vodka was for me)The GFO works fairly well in getting the phosphates down. I use about 1cup GFO, which is exhausted, and needs to be changed in roughly 1-3 weeks.
After 2 months, I never really noticed a significant reduction in phosphates. I contributed the lack of a result, to the imbalance I have between nitrates (around 0ppm), and phosphates (often over 2.50ppm).
I've always had this imbalance. It has limited the growth rate of beneficial bacteria (requiring NO3 and PO4), which would then be skimmed out of the system, reducing both NO4+PO4. Because I have next to no NO3 in my system, the good bacteria is slower to grow. Instead I have Dinoflagellates (requiring only PO4), outcompeting the macro algae in my 25g refugium.
I was discussing this with some local reefers, the other day.
Something I'm always wondering about is my feeding schedule. Is it enough or too much. They said it was even a bit on the lite side. When I told them what I feed, they both asked me what I did with the frozen cube of mysis. I've always put it in a little mesh pouch and clip it with a magnet clip. They both said that's a problem. The frozen mysis should be thawed and rinsed before use. I had heard that before, but didn't feel it was necessary.
I figured I'd start taking some measurements and see the amount of phosphates is in 1 cube of mysis.
- I thawed the cube in 100ml of rodi water.
The phosphate level was 2.50ppm.
I will do this again tomorrow with 200ml, and will increase until I get a reading less then 2.50pp. Then I'll figure out PO4 per Gallon, per cube of mysis shimp. (I'm sure someone on here has already done that...I haven't done a search yet)
Food for thought reefers...rinse your frozen food.
