Free RBTA for babysitting.

JNye

JNye

Moved On Up
I have 2 RBTA due to a split. My tank is in bad shape right now due to Ich, I got the RBTAs in my sump. It has only PC lighting. They would prolly do okay the problem is when i got it is was bleached and in bad shape(online purchase). They were starting to come around(i've heard it can take up to a year for them to rally) but now I am worried about their survivial. If you have halides and want a free one then take them both for about a month and I will come get one when my tank is back together. I also prefer you have a mature tank and some reefkeeping experience. This is not first come first serve, sorry, but i want the safest place for them please.
joe.
just PM me please.
 
ygpm.

I should have a quad VHO setup in the next day or two and I'm setting up a new isolation tank for inverts. i can't offer the optimal setup, but i'm willing to help if nobody else can offer a better solution.
 
Last edited:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11983381#post11983381 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bigevill
beatcha
Click to expand...
to me its not a contest. i'm just offering to help if i can.
 
You are no fun what so ever Bob. Did you know that? Obviously it is not a contest, I was just trying to have some fun with you.
 
well, depending upon one's point of view, the problem is either that i'm just not fun, or you're just not as funny as you think you are. :p maybe i'm just not fun. no offense intended, none taken here. :) glad to hear that Joe's getting help.
 
HAHAHA evil, hopefully Bob will have his Invert set-up going when I need my RBTA back so my tank doesn't get ick from you!!!
 
Joe, if you've already got ich, it would be a good idea for those RBTA to spend 40 days in a fish free system before putting them into another reef. Be careful Mike.
 
first off, my tank already has Ick in it. Must peoples tanks do. Second off none of his tank water was transfered into my tank. Every once and a while some fish get frisky and fight and one comes down with ick for a day or two, then it is gone. Not a big deal if your tank is healthy.
 
anemones can carry the trophonts regardless of whether they are transferred with or without tank water. if you've already got ich in your tank, i guess it really doesn't matter. nevermind.
 
they've been fishless for 2 weeks so its highly unlikely there is anything on them.
Mike so you saying my tank isn't healthy!LOL.
 
Just saying that if your fish have Ick it is usually becuase they are stressed from something else causeing them to be weaker when trying to fight off things like Ick.
 
yeah i know, my system was flawed and not functuioning properly...skimmerless with not enough flow and not enough water changes...all my fault. I know better too. Thats part of why i wanted a real nice skimmer, i know i am going to miss some WCs here and there. In a way i am glad my purple got ich, he had it progressively worse for a month or more, but my yellow never showed any signs(he already had it and was hypo-ed). I think the yellow built up a nice immunity to it and am hoping the same is true for the purple in the future.
 
there are two conditions that are necessary for fish to manifest a clinical ich infestation:

a) they have to be exposed to the parasite
b) they have to be stressed to the point that the opportunistic infection can overwhelm their immune system

there are two schools of thought on ich prevention:

a) don't worry about ich in your tank. the fish will always bear a subclinical infection that will only progress to a clinical infection if they are stressed,
b) eradicate ich from your system, so that the subclinical carrier state does not exist. this makes it impossible for the fish to ever develop a clinical case of ich, regardless of how stressed they may become.

as mike said, quite a few hobbyists concur with the first school of thought. most professional breeders concur with the second school of thought and take extensive measures to eradicate ich from their breeding systems.
 
yeah, but in a reef tank with live rock it is next to immpossible to eradicate these parasites. Treating your live rock with meds that kill Ick also makes the live rock unsuitable for a reef tank. Same with the sand. UV helps, but you cannot assure that all free swimming parasites will get put thru the ringer as it were, and then you also kill off other things in your water that corals and other filter feeders need to survive.
 
which parasites are you referring to? i was only thinking about ich.

marine ich is a parasitic infection whose reproductive cycle absolutely requires a fish to be present as a host, or the parasite cannot reproduce. by removing the fish from a reef system for a period of time exceeding the parasite's life cycle, it is easy enough to completely eradicate marine ich from a reef system.

all that you need to do is put the fish in hypoQT for 40 days, while maintaining the fish-free reef at normal salinity for the same time period. ich will be eradicated from both systems. then you can reintroduce the ich-free fish to the ich-free reef. people do it all the time. no copper required.
 
Pesc- your last post is not a fact, though it is commonly believed to be true many many experieced keepers will say it has to 60 days fishless to be ich free. and hypo is actually not guaranteed to eradicate ich, though it is commonly accepted as such. I believe it does, but many say ich will remain in the gills protected by their hosts slime coat and the reason hypo works is because you basically eradicate it and the fish are healthier and not stressed. I don't know which is true but i know that we don't have enough studies to know for sure. I have also read that ich cannot survive in a reef tank for more than a year because of gene pool being too small. as long as you don't introduce any new ich for a period of 1 year you prolly killed it through "evolution", i thought that was kinda cool.
 
yeah,
you add a new piece of LR: ICK
Add a new coral: ICK
add a new fish: ICK
add some new sand: ICK

meanwhile all you have to do is make sure your fish are happy and healthy and then ICK doesnt matter. In the last 5+ years I have had MANY minor outbreaks of ick in my tanks. I have never lost a fish, and since the first 6 months where I was fish only I have never treated with copper, or done hypo.
 
Back on topic for a short while. Both anemones are doing fine. I did put the smaller of the two in my nano cube just till it attaches to a rock, which I will then move it down to the big tank. The one I put in the big tank crawled behind some rocks, and will have to move to get any decent light. I just hope it moves somewhere that I dont have to rework my coral placement :D
 
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