Your calcium shot up 100 ppm in 2 days? Maybe the test or test method needs to be reviewed, otherwise, way too soon to be dosing anything right now...This new tank might benefit from some twice weekly water changes to tone down the ammo/nitro spikes, just to alleviate the harsh conditions for all the live stock in there. Won't spank you, but it really would have been safer to wait quite awhile longer before stocking the tank. Your anemones look unnaturally white, possibly shocked/bleached; did you buy them that way? Otherwise, their loss of pigment since being in the tank is a big warning sign - I'm sorry, but they may die on you without careful intervention. Move them to a proper quarrantine tank and feed them and light them as well as you can. Use a skimmer and Seachem Purigen adsorber beads in mesh bag placed in area of highest filter/powerhead flow in quarrantine tank, cause it isn't cycled, either. Enrich their food with Zoe Marine and ZoeCon or use cyclopeeze. Keep the quarantine tank water as close to perfect as you can - 0 ammonia.
Otherwise, like frick'n'frag and Vickie say, Halimeda can appear to come back from the dead, so don't remove it. The chloroplasts do in fact migrate deep within the calcerous habitus (body) at night and when plant is stressed. Could gently rub cyano slime off the Halimeda using an airline siphon to vacuum it out of the tank, otherwise, it'll re-settle and grow in there.
The shift in PH values may simply be because you tested earlier in the lights-on period than the previous test; swings in PH occur due to photosynthesizers' activity; the zoothanthellae in corals/anemones, and the light responsive micro and macro algaes. PH and carbon dioxide levels interrelate in a tank. PH rises to optimum level during light period when CO2 and nutrients are being processed by the "plants"/algaes/zoothanellae, and PH goes down at lights-off, when all photosybthesizers are dormant but breathing in oxygen, and giving off CO2, just like the animals.
Some hobbyists like to temper these swings in PH by plumbing a refugium with "plants" that runs on an opposite light schedule from the main tank. Maintaining a decent Alkalinity and Calcium level alleviates the problem, too.