Hardy/Easier SPS (if they exist)

Jerm0007

New member
Are there any hardier or easier SPS chorals? I have tried a few birdsnest frags and an Acro, but none have lasted more than two weeks before losing all color and basically becoming a skeleton. My PH, Calcium, Alk all test perfect, but my Phosphates are high. The phosphates are at nearly 2.0. All other choral I have ever tried are growing quite well and my three nems are thriving. Is it just that the water must be perfect for SPS? or are there kinds that can tolerate some Phosphate? Thanks!
 
if you are not going to lower po4, and keep KH and CA++ stable, then do not bother will SPS. even if you do get them to live longer, they will look brown, have no growth, and TBH they would be an eyesore in what could be a nice softies tank.


if you are planning on the extra work, then try a monti cap. then monti digitata. in order.

HTH,
 
Totally agree with Allmost. I've dipped my toe in going on 6 months now. They're frus...challenging. I have several montis, some acros, a tort now, 2 milis. The grow fast, and beautiful - but are hyper sensitive and require constant water quality maintenance. I'm currently having STN on a big porites which is a constant source of angst...

I had a tank of softies and LPSs for 5 years. Once I got the hang of it I used to tell people it was easier to maintaining than my old freshwater tanks (which was true.) I can definitely no longer say that with the SPSs!
 
You will have issues unless you get the phosphate down a lot. Have you tried GFO?

Some easier ones are gonna be birdsnest, montipora (plating or encrusting), or some green Slimer. Key to SPS is stability not only good water but good flow and stable parameters. Keeping the big three (cal,alk and mag) stable is a major part in keeping SPS. Drifting numbers equals issues with hard corals. I would start with a montipora if I were you. And make sure your system is stable before wasting money on them.. Good luck.

Def read the stickies in the SPS forums they should answer a lot of your question and give advice on what you should strive for in a SPS system.
 
I am having my own RO/DI system installed this weekend and I'm hoping that Extra water changes may help bring the Phosphate down. I currently have a 90 gallon corner with about 100 pounds of live rock and 30 gallon refuge. I change 20 gallons every two weeks currently ( water from the LFS). After this weekend when i have my own water at my disposal would it be beneficial to do like a 10-15 gallon water change every week? As opposed to a larger 20-30 every two weeks?
 
I would do 20 gallon water change weekly.

blow all rocks once or twice a week. alot of detritus get stock and rott and release po4.

run GFO and get po4 undercontrol
but that wont be it ! you have po4 bonded to yur rocks now, and only way to get it our is through dilution, so continue 20G water changes weekly till you have it undercontrol.

meanwhile, practice testing for KH and CA++ often and maintain them, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week it should be the same value.

once you have this controlled, then try SPS again.

I assume you have the flow and light needed by SPS as well ?

I would also look into carbon dosing, do a search on google about vodka dosing, it will help you alot with maintaining N and P.
 
Sounds good on the water changes, I had kinda planned to do that. What do you mean by "blowing" the rocks? Like turkey basting them?
 
As for lighting, I have a 36 inch reefbrite XHO LED, a 24 inch Reefbrite led, a 12 inch reef brite led and a panarama pro module 12 inch led. As for flow I have two powerheads that and two water returns. The water is very well circulated.
 
Sounds good on the water changes, I had kinda planned to do that. What do you mean by "blowing" the rocks? Like turkey basting them?

turkey baster would work, but it would be alot of squeezing :) I use a Maxijet power head ... MJ1200 for me, you can use smaller ones and just blow all the holes in the rocks, you will be suprised of amount of detritus that comes out.

perhaps, do your water change after blowing rocks to remove the detritus :)

LED lighting I have no Idea, but it should be good enough. flow, make sure you have at least 30-40 turns per hour.
 
As for lighting, I have a 36 inch reefbrite XHO LED, a 24 inch Reefbrite led, a 12 inch reef brite led and a panarama pro module 12 inch led. As for flow I have two powerheads that and two water returns. The water is very well circulated.

what kind of powerheads and how much total flow? On that note, what are your Ca, Alk and Mg readings?

Your idea of well circulated/good parameters and the coral's requirements might not align. Better to ask than to guess and be wrong. Advice is free, frags aren't.

FWIW, I have up to a 100x turnover rate on my 10g tank that I'm building for SPS.
 
Carbon dosing would def help in your case along with routine water changes.

I carbon dose red sea nopox and it works extremely well. Same principle as vodka just different ingredients. Costs more though. I Got cyano with vodka only and instead of tweaking the ingredients with vinegar etc I just opted to go for the nopox. And for me it works well.
 
when you are ready for sps corals i would buy a lot of corals from ORA.they are completely aquacultured and some have been in captivity for over 8 years or more.they are known for being able to hold their color in a wide range of tank parameters and grow well for most if not all of who purchase them.they have a nice selection of colors and species to choose from and are well worth the money.most range from $30-$60 depending on where you buy from.also the frags arent tiny little chips like some vendors are,sometimes the frags are really minicolonies.
 
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