Help design 20gal sump.

otrips

New member
Picked up a 20gal long today during Petco's $1 sale.
Will be using it to replace the 10gal sump under my 55gal DT.

Looking for design ideas. What would be ideal?

Will be fed by 1.5" drain (Glass-Holes 700gph overflow box) return Pump either a Catalina Aquarium 635gph (using now) or Danner 500gph.
Have both my Jager heaters in the DT now as they are to long for the layout of the 10gal.
Currently I have a breeder net in the 10gal full of cheato which works quite well for keeping it out of the DT. So I'll need an area in the new sump for cheato where it cant get into the DT, clog the pump or screw with my ATO float. One small piece made it & is now growing between rock work where I can't get to it which is really annoying. I have a separate 10gal for additional pods to keep my Mandarin happy with some cheato & mangroves.

Currently I use a thin layer of floss (changed frequently)in the first chamber to trap large particles as others tend to overfeed &/or leave pumps on. Wondering if a sock might be the way to go or my best option in that regard.
I'm leaning towards under over under baffle for the return section.

My other half cuts glass/acrylic working at Lowe's so whatever sizes I need she can make up. Siliconing won't be an issue either.
I realize there are a tons of simple to somewhat strange sump ideas out there, but what works best is another story. So any help to get it right the first time would be appreciated.
 
I just picked up a 29g at petco's $1 dollars sale too! What a steal!!!


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There are two main types of design the return pump on the far end like this



Or the return pump in the middle which can be made to feed the fuge (not shown in this picture) something like this with your skimmer in the first chamber

 
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You can set the bubble trap as over under over or like the way you want to. It's not going to matter. A lot of people set them as over under over. The article that states to set it the other way is wrong you don't end up with bubbles in the return. The height of the first chamber is set by your skimmer but the spacing on the rest is really up to you. With a 20 long you make three even chambers if you want to. Filter socks will work just fine. Just make sure you clean them a few times a week. Some people recommend to not run them at all because if you wait to long to clean them you can get a NO3 spike.
 
I have a CPR Bak-Pac HOB skimmer now. I may upgrade a ways down the road so I'd like to plan for that possibility. New lights must come first and a some non hobby related expenses. I have no idea what I may end up with. Having the skimmer in the first chamber seems to make the most sense. Is there a minimum baffle height (water level) you would recommend for that chamber or simply the highest possible leaving room for overflow?
I'm confused with the second picture showing the overflow tee'd off feeding the fuge. How would that work? Doesn't water fall straight down or am I missing something?
Teeing off the return pipe & having the fuge on the right seems to make the most sense right now.
I have a bunch of cardboard I'm going to cut up & play around with.
 
You have to look up the height that they recommend that the skimmer be operated at. For example this skimmer needs to be in 7" to 8" of water

 
The idea of the second picture is to T off the overflow and let some water that hasn't gone through the skimmer into the fuge. The picture just shows it a dumb way.
 
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