Help on a new 150 gallon build

[The CHop]

Hello everyone I am new to these forums and have heard that they are one of the best so here I am. I am in the process of setting up a new 150 gallon sps and lps reef. I have had a reef tank for about 6 years 100 gallon and man was it a learning experience. It is a bit of a frankenstine as it progressed as my knowledge of the hobby did as well. I have had to move recently and ended up having to sell it to a good friend of mine as the move was just to far away to safely move it. In my new tank I am looking to put much more thought into the planning of it rather than going for it and improving the tank as I found the problems as I did last time. As I don't know many other reef lovers in my area I was hopping to bounce some ideas I have for the tank around here and get some feed back.

So here is a basic over view of what I have going so far and some of the questions I have.

150 gallon truvue 60x24x24
2 1.5" over flows
75 gallon diy sump 1" sea swirl return about 2000 gph pump minus the 4 foot head height
75 gallon diy refurgium 1" sea swirl return about 2000 gph pump minus the 4 foot head height
closed loop in rock work
closed loop wave action
calcium reactor
uv
chiller
2 x 400w mh 14k
4 t5 atinics
12 led moon lights

My main questions right now as I did not have one on my other tank are the closed loop systems for wave making and circulation in the rock work at the moment. I would like to implement both kinds. I am going to drill the tank for these.

Now with closed loop system for the rock work about how high off the sand bed would you need to put the intakes? I plan on having about a 4" sand bed and don't want to be sucking sand into the pipes. Also does anyone know the minimum distance that should be given between each hole in the tank as not to crack the acrylic? I would imagine it as 4 holes in total the returns in the center and the intakes a bit higher up on either side would this be proper thinking. I am thinking of using 2 1500 gph pumps one for the right side and 1 for the left or would this be just way to high? I am sure that the amount of holes in the pvc would effect the flow out of each hole. Is there a formula for how much each hole would decrease the flow of the over all amount of holes?

For the closed loop wave action. I have been reading up on here about the Carlson surge. I don't like the idea of all the bubbles it creates though. I do really like the idea of how it creates the ebb and flow of a true wave action. So I was thinking of trying to create something that would have similar effects with a closed loop system. I was thinking of using a sqwd but I hear mixed reviews on it. I have also been thinking of just using 2 pumps and switching them on and off but I have heard this is really hard on the pump and not a good idea. Does anyone out there have a good idea on how to create a wave action like this say switching side to side every 7 to 10 sec? I have been looking high and low and have not been able to find a link or thoughts on it. Also say I drill a 1" return hole in the upper right and left center of the side for the return. Wouldn't this just create a jet of water being pushed across the tank? Is there a better way to disperse the flow to create more of a solid push of water across the whole tank rather than a jet?

Well sorry for such a long post here. Thanks so much for reading and as always thanks for the help if ya can. Just want this tank to be a work of art no power heads and wires in the viewing field. Thanks

 

[mordibv]

Just a thought . U cannot run a 1 inch seal swirl with that kind of flow .
EG : mag 24 with 2 90's ;1 gate valve; 2 45's @ 3 foot head with 1 foot horizontal is around 1300 gph . U will have to stay under 1150 gph after head loss calculations .There is a 1.5 seaswirl that can take whatver flow you throw at it . You can kiss nearly 4 bills for it .
Instead of a carlson device ECO tech MP 40's can create the wave you are looking for . I am unsure what kind of havoc it can do on acrylic . Swirls or crazing ? in the acrylic .
Call eco tech for the correct answers .

The acrylic tank you choose is nice . Unforutnately the braces and the way it almost completly covered by acrylic on the top will lead to light penetration issues.

If it were me I would opt for starfire glass on a Marineland 240 DD type . I am not crazy about the 27 inches in height . If your a tall guy it might fit the bill for you .
Where are you located ? There are some nice tank builders around that might be able to make that tank size in glass and starfire on 3 sides .

I cannot comment on closed loops . No experience with it .

2 400 WATT MH may not cover 5 feet unless good reflectors are used . Lumenbright large reflectors or Lumenmax elite's should help nicely . A friend used the lumatek switchable 250 to 400's on his large tank DD build . He went 250 radiums to 400 then back to the 250's . He said it was too much light .

Here is his build ..

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1720821&highlight=sticks+and+twigs




Good luck with your build and WELCOME TO RC

 

[The CHop]

Good call on the sea swirls I did not even think to check there max flow rate. I already have them. Have not bought the pumps yet. So I think ill just lower the flow rather than dishing out the 8 bills for 2 new ones. With the flow rate suggested it will still turn the tank over about 15 times through the sump and fuge alone that should be good I would think.

I looked into the eco tec and really like them however on this build I am trying to keep all equipment out of the tank besides the 2 returns. It used to bother me having all the powerheads and so forth in the viewing area last time. With the 2 returns I can tuck them in the back corner and on my last tank barley noticed them. As long as I kept them clean lol.

Any idea on the cost of having such a tank built. I have always heard that star fire is super expensive. I would only need 1 viewing field made out of it as I have now decided to tuck the tank into the wall and have access to all equipment and so forth from the back in the garage. I have just moved to Pleasant Hill, CA. As for the depth of the tank not such a issue I am 6'5" can reach the bottom pretty easy.

With the light penetration I think you are right. Have you heard of people getting a drimal and leaving the center brace and removing all the top plastic besides about a inch all the way around. That's what the guy at the lfs suggested. So ya think it would be better to run 3 250 mh. I was worried about the light penetration at the 24" depth?

Also nice tank your friend has there.

Thanks for the input.

 

[mordibv]

Never heard of the dremel trick but voided warranty comes to mind . I guess it would depend on the thickness of the acrylic . IMHO I think if you removed those areas might bow on you.
The tanks are Marineland DD,s .DD's come with starfire . His was 2000 . Leemar is a tank builder in SanDiego ?
My friend only used two lumenmax elites , with ice cap ballast , ice cap t5 reflectors and ati bulbs . He had plenty of light . His tank is 5ft x 3 feet deep x 27 inches tall .
BTW Galaxy and Lumatek's ballast with the elites are plug and play . No rewiring at all .
MP 40's are not very noticeable at all . No cords are inside the tank. Just the prop/ wet side assembly .

 

[es1887]

250s on a 24 inch tank would be fine. Just get good reflectors and the whole tank should be covered. I switched from 250s to 400s on my 120 that was 24" deep and all I can say is that it cooked my corals. Even my lps at the bottom got smoked. I had to raise the lights 6" to account for the difference in intensity. I think you will be fine with 250s. The brace is there for a reason and I personally would not remove it. Acrylic is much more flexible than glass which is why they need such a larger brace. If you do remove it you could do braces to replace it that are smaller but thicker.