Hi, I'm starting a 30 gal tall seahorse tank soon and would like to know which macroalgae (if any) would work in a 24" tall tank with LED's. The lighting will be an led that come with the half-moon 30 gal Marineland aquarium (haven't purchased as of yet). I can use this or upgrade to better lighting if needed for the macro's, but I've read that seahorses prefer the light to be on the low end...is this true?
Help please! Which macroalgae for tall seahorse tank?
- Thread starter valdees
- Start date
CORRECTION: the tank is 28" tall :eek1:
vlangel
Premium Member
Hi valdees, my seahorse tank is a 30g XH and is 24" so a little shorter than yours but I have the feather calerpa which is so tall it is always stuck to my powerhead at the top of the tank. I also have cheato and although the initial ball of cheato were at the bottom of the tank, strands of it got caught and began growing on the tips of a fake fan and the fan is at the top of a box I built to house rio pumps for suspension of food and particles at the bottom of the tank. Anyway that helps scaping a high tank. Check out Gulfcoast Ecosystems for macros and their descriptions.
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Thanx vlangel! how long have you had your seahorse tank and have you had good success with it? Also,can you tell me more about your complete set-up (equipment) and the reason each is needed? I've had large freshwater aquariums for over 20 yrs, but I'm very inexperienced with larger s/w set-ups. I've had a 7.5 gal with dwarfs for 2 yrs. but now I'm ready for bigger, just not sure what I'll need for the 30 gal. Do you have any other fish or inverts with your horses? All info is much appreciated.
vlangel
Premium Member
Well, I am a noobie also. I set my tank up just this May but I have been a salt water aquarists since the late 90's. However seahorses have some very important aspects that should be heeded to maximize your success. You have already addressed one by getting a tall tank that is 30 gallons. 30g is an excellent size for one pair of ponies. Purchasing captive bred seahorses that eat frozen mysis is one of the best ways to increase your chances of success. Captive bred is not the same as tank raised. Captive bred means that they have been born and reared in tanks with artificial seawater or filtered natural seawater so they do not have the pathogens of wild seahorses or net penned seahorses. Their adaptability to living in a tank makes their price tag well worth it. Nothing is more heart breaking than watching your new seahorse wasting away because it wont eat or catching a bacterial infection or parasite that now manifests itself when the pony is confined to a tank.
It is also advisable to keep them alone or with only very calm captive bred fish, and inverts. Mine are with nassarius snails, a lettuce nudibranch, peppermint shrimp and captive bred banded pipefish.
Seahorses are big eaters and very messy so a protein skimmer is extremely helpful. They do not have efficient digestive systems so they should eat 2-3 Xs a day. A skimmer reduces the dissolved contaminants that can cause an increased pathogens. Seahorses are prone to bacterial infections because they do not have scales. Another way to diminish their chances of contracting an infection is to keep the temperature 74 degrees or below. Bacterias reproduce exponentially above 74. My tank has a chiller to assure that the temperature wont go above 74, (at least as long as I have electricity).
You might read that seahorses need low flow but that is not held by successful seahorse keepers nowadays. If I remember a minimum of 10X turn over is recommended. My tank has a sump with turnover there, plus I have a hang on pump in the tank with filter floss and activated carbon, a net covered koralia near the top to create surface agitation for gas exchange and 2 small rio powerheads near the sand to keep food and particles suspended so they can be filtered.
I think those are some of the main concerns. Perhaps more experienced seahorse keepers could jump in with some of the things I may have forgotten.
It is also advisable to keep them alone or with only very calm captive bred fish, and inverts. Mine are with nassarius snails, a lettuce nudibranch, peppermint shrimp and captive bred banded pipefish.
Seahorses are big eaters and very messy so a protein skimmer is extremely helpful. They do not have efficient digestive systems so they should eat 2-3 Xs a day. A skimmer reduces the dissolved contaminants that can cause an increased pathogens. Seahorses are prone to bacterial infections because they do not have scales. Another way to diminish their chances of contracting an infection is to keep the temperature 74 degrees or below. Bacterias reproduce exponentially above 74. My tank has a chiller to assure that the temperature wont go above 74, (at least as long as I have electricity).
You might read that seahorses need low flow but that is not held by successful seahorse keepers nowadays. If I remember a minimum of 10X turn over is recommended. My tank has a sump with turnover there, plus I have a hang on pump in the tank with filter floss and activated carbon, a net covered koralia near the top to create surface agitation for gas exchange and 2 small rio powerheads near the sand to keep food and particles suspended so they can be filtered.
I think those are some of the main concerns. Perhaps more experienced seahorse keepers could jump in with some of the things I may have forgotten.
Thanks so much vlangel for all the excellent advice. Do you think I'll need a sump for a successful tank, or would I be ok as long as I keep up with water changes and evaporation? I've been accustomed to that with my 7.5 gal. Also, would a blenny or goby be ok to keep with seahorses? Sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure I do this right.
vlangel
Premium Member
No a sump is not necessary as long as you have good flow and gas exchange at the surface. Just watch your water quality as it can degrade quickly with seahorses. Some folks keep gobies and blennies with seahorses but remember that fish caught in the ocean can pass on pathogens. At the very least QT the fish.
FinzAquatics
New member
Portieria is a macro algae species that will grow rather tall... It will take some time but a single specimen can get pretty tall. I currently have one that is approaching 8-9 inches tall..
FinzAquatics
New member
Re read your question and it does not appear you are looking for a tall plant per say.. Take a look at the macro algae part of the forum and go to my thread on my 40 gallon seahorse tank..
Its loaded with macro.. should give you some ideas
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2445716
Its loaded with macro.. should give you some ideas
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2445716
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pledosophy
Active member
Here is my last one.
I recommend sargassum, red grape, ochotodes, codium, prolifera, mermaids fan, and dragons tongue.
I would stay away from fern and green grape (taxifloria, mexicana, racemosa)
I recommend sargassum, red grape, ochotodes, codium, prolifera, mermaids fan, and dragons tongue.
I would stay away from fern and green grape (taxifloria, mexicana, racemosa)
Thanx FinzAquatics! where did you get your Portieria? will it grow with LED's? I haven't purchased the aquarium yet so I don't know the strength of the LED's that come with it. But I can purchase stronger if needed.
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