Help with ich treatment options before transfer to new tank

[fairladyZ]

So I finally have my 210 gallon tank up and running. All my corals are in it and it's been running for 3 months now. I've left all my fish in my previous 90 gallon with all the old rock and sand. Only the corals and a scoop sand from the 90 gallon were moved over from the previous setup. All new rock and sand. Corals were moved after about a month so they've been in there with hermits and snails for 2 months.

My fish list that is still in the 90 gallon consist of:

Whitetail Bristletooth (covered in ich)
3 zebra dartfish (never seen a spot)
Radiant Wrasse (never seen a spot)
2 clownfish (never seen a spot)
lawnmower blenny (never seen a spot)
mandarin goby (never seen a spot)
The tang is the only fish i've seen out of all of them that has shown signs of having ich. Never saw anything on him till i introduced some mushrooms that came out of another persons tank. Then a couple would show up but i always thought maybe it was sand. Now its getting worse. Since i took the lights off the 90 gallon and put the old t5's on the tank has been battling cyano and other algae blooms. I need to act fast and get these guys healthy but i'm unsure what method to take that would be safest and best for these fish.

I do not have an established QT setup anymore, I broke it down. I have the 90 they are in now and i have the 20 gallon that WAS my QT. I've thought about pulling out all the rock, sand and refugium out of the 90 and dropping the salinity. It is on an apex still with ATO so it would be easy to keep it steady and hold PH. But i'm worried about the mandarin running out of pods to eat with it barebottom and everything dying other than fish. She does eat frozen brine though.

The other option i considered was TTM. But i've read it's pretty stressful on the fish, and also without having an established QT setup to put them in when complete they would just be going right to the 210 once TTM was complete.

Copper is another option but i don't like the idea of poisoning the fish. And i don't want to ruin any equipment in the 90 gallon as i do plan to resell the setup as a complete setup.

so i need some advise and guidance on what route to take please. don't want to endanger any of the fish anymore than i already have. And a loss of any of them will be devastating as i'm attached to them all.

thanks

 

[snorvich]

Use the Tank transfer protocol a couple fish at a time. This will eliminate ich from the possibilities.

 

[fairladyZ]

Use the Tank transfer protocol a couple fish at a time. This will eliminate ich from the possibilities.

And do you think it would be fine to put the fish into the 210 DT after TTM is complete? Most fish have been in there atleast a year.. The last one that was added has been in there about 6 months. So i assume they are all healthy other than the ich on the tang. I do have prazipro on hand but would like to avoid adding it to the DT once all fish are in there. Unless you think otherwise?

 

[snorvich]

And do you think it would be fine to put the fish into the 210 DT after TTM is complete?

Yes. You could treat for flukes concurrently with TT if you think you have that issue.

Most fish have been in there atleast a year.. The last one that was added has been in there about 6 months. So i assume they are all healthy other than the ich on the tang. I do have prazipro on hand but would like to avoid adding it to the DT once all fish are in there. Unless you think otherwise?

 

[fairladyZ]

So i got 2-10 gallon tanks and currently have them ready to go. i have 30 gallons of fresh salt that i made up on sunday that is heated and been running with a powerhead going since then. I have 2 heaters ready to go that i'm dialing in now to both be set at the same temp as DT. I only have 1 extra powerhead so i got a bubbler and 4 air stones that will be fine correct?

Also if i decide to do prazi pro do i just do a dose in the first tank then again on the 3rd tank correct? then on the 4th tank aslong as the fish shows no signs they can go back into the new DT? If the fish shows no signs of anymore ich in the 4th transfer and after i move to DT can i keep that water in the 4th QT tank and restart the process with more fish out of my old DT? Would say 3 fish at a time in the 10 gallon be ok or would i be pushing the limits of fighting ammonia? i have some prime would it be a good idea just to add a little bit every day to each tank?
None of my fish have white poop but i'm not sure what normal poop looks like. It is mostly solid and kinda furry looking i guess? lol

Thanks for all the help steve

 

[wooden_reefer]

So I finally have my 210 gallon tank up and running. All my corals are in it and it's been running for 3 months now. I've left all my fish in my previous 90 gallon with all the old rock and sand. Only the corals and a scoop sand from the 90 gallon were moved over from the previous setup. All new rock and sand. Corals were moved after about a month so they've been in there with hermits and snails for 2 months.

My fish list that is still in the 90 gallon consist of:

Whitetail Bristletooth (covered in ich)
3 zebra dartfish (never seen a spot)
Radiant Wrasse (never seen a spot)
2 clownfish (never seen a spot)
lawnmower blenny (never seen a spot)
mandarin goby (never seen a spot)
The tang is the only fish i've seen out of all of them that has shown signs of having ich. Never saw anything on him till i introduced some mushrooms that came out of another persons tank. Then a couple would show up but i always thought maybe it was sand. Now its getting worse. Since i took the lights off the 90 gallon and put the old t5's on the tank has been battling cyano and other algae blooms. I need to act fast and get these guys healthy but i'm unsure what method to take that would be safest and best for these fish.

I do not have an established QT setup anymore, I broke it down. I have the 90 they are in now and i have the 20 gallon that WAS my QT. I've thought about pulling out all the rock, sand and refugium out of the 90 and dropping the salinity. It is on an apex still with ATO so it would be easy to keep it steady and hold PH. But i'm worried about the mandarin running out of pods to eat with it barebottom and everything dying other than fish. She does eat frozen brine though.

The other option i considered was TTM. But i've read it's pretty stressful on the fish, and also without having an established QT setup to put them in when complete they would just be going right to the 210 once TTM was complete.

Copper is another option but i don't like the idea of poisoning the fish. And i don't want to ruin any equipment in the 90 gallon as i do plan to resell the setup as a complete setup.

so i need some advise and guidance on what route to take please. don't want to endanger any of the fish anymore than i already have. And a loss of any of them will be devastating as i'm attached to them all.

thanks

Whatever you do to attempt to eradicate ich, prudent is to prepare for failure in the form of ich breaking out in DT.

I will always have cycled medium ready to support all fish and try eradication again if the first time fails. It takes 10-12 weeks for DT to fallow and during this time use have to support the fish.

After all the fish has been transferred to DT, and there is no more livestock in the 90 gal tank, I would at once do hypo to 1.009 or a bit lower. Ammonia from die-off may accumulate for a week or so. If ich in DT does not happen while hypo has ridden ich from the 90 gals, you can use it to support all the fish while the DT fallows, if ich were to break out in the DT later.