Here are my water chemistries. Help!

K

kremit2007

New member
OK I just want a general opinion. I have been posting lately about my tank which crashed killing most of my fish. The tank has since been cycling once again, and here are the levels:

Ammonia = 0
Calcium = 460 Mg/L
Nitrates = 30ppm
Nitrites = 0ppm
pH = 8.5

I want to know how/why the nitrates could be reading 30 but the nitrites are reading 0. It doesn't make sense to me. Also, the only reason I added the Calcium value was because ALL of my corals survived the crash and I have been adding this on a daily basis for over a week. Im happy with all levels except for the trates. Any suggestions? As for water changes, I just performed another, 20% water change last night, so about 24 hours ago or more.

One more thing, I want to add that with this newest cycle, the tank produced more green/brown algae than ever before. What a pain, any suggestions on the size of a cleaning crew I can pick up tomorrow? 15 snails, 15 hermits?

Another thing, I want to add that I have a few spots of Coralline algae growing finally, some on the tank glass, some on the rocks, some on the CC. I think its pretty awesome, but most people told me it wouldn't start growing in a 5-6 month old tank. HA!
 
The nitrites are turned into nitrates. That's why you're getting a higher nitrate reading. Nitrogen cycle...Amonia - Nitrites - Nitrates.

Because of the elevated nitrate readings, I am assuming that's why you have algae growth. As for lowering it, I'm at a loss. I mean, I know the right answers, but I cannot get mine below 10. Normally, mine have always been at 20, and 10 is good for me.

As for the coraline gowth, I have it growing already on the back of my tank and glass and parts of my LR and my tank is only running since Sept.
 
It must just be the Eric name, mine started cycling in late August with the same affect. ha, Thanks, I appreciate the response...
 
Water source?
Whats used for flow?
Amount of LR and LS?
How long tank been running and is it a FOWLR now?
 
Re: Here are my water chemistries. Help!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11618806#post11618806 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kremit2007
OK I just want a general opinion. I have been posting lately about my tank which crashed killing most of my fish. The tank has since been cycling once again, and here are the levels:

Ammonia = 0
Calcium = 460 Mg/L
Nitrates = 30ppm
Nitrites = 0ppm
pH = 8.5

I want to know how/why the nitrates could be reading 30 but the nitrites are reading 0. It doesn't make sense to me. Also, the only reason I added the Calcium value was because ALL of my corals survived the crash and I have been adding this on a daily basis for over a week. Im happy with all levels except for the trates. Any suggestions? As for water changes, I just performed another, 20% water change last night, so about 24 hours ago or more.

One more thing, I want to add that with this newest cycle, the tank produced more green/brown algae than ever before. What a pain, any suggestions on the size of a cleaning crew I can pick up tomorrow? 15 snails, 15 hermits?

Another thing, I want to add that I have a few spots of Coralline algae growing finally, some on the tank glass, some on the rocks, some on the CC. I think its pretty awesome, but most people told me it wouldn't start growing in a 5-6 month old tank. HA!
Click to expand...

Vodka Nuff said
 
What media do you have in your tank? Bioballs, sponge, ceramic rings? Crushed coral substrate?

FYI...My tank is five months old and has been covered in coralline for a while now....the entire back wall is pink. Someone gave you some bum info. :)
Tracy

Tracy
 
The water source is RO water from Petland...It will soon be seawater premixed from the Reef store in Chicago...I have and AquaClear powerhead and a Tetra ( I think thats the name) powerhead. The bottom of the tank now has better flowage. There isn't as much LR as Id like in there so I am going to buy a lot of LR this weekend and cycle the tank again I guess. I have mixed 1:1 CC and "Ocean Sand" which I bought from the store. It has been running since late August. It is now technically turning into a Reeftank as I have added corals, just weeks before the tank had crashed. All is leveling out well now.
 
The substrate is CC and fine "Ocean Sand". I have a general, run of the mills Marineland BIO-wheel...

Tracy - yea, someone must have given me bum info. Thanks LFS, haha, never can trust em around here...Thanks
 
Biowheel will add to the nitrate issue as well.

CC and Biowheel....need to come up with a plan to remove them (if you want to keep corals....the nitrates won't hurt fish)

Don't go and do it all at once though.

Tracy
 
Bio wheel bad. Your LR will be your main Bio Filter but not if flow is to low as in your case. You need to know your water reading.This will tell you everything thats going on with your tank and can prevent major problems.you maynot have crashed but ran high on some readings.
Do you know your readings?
 
Also, I know the Biowheel is not the best but it helps and I hadn't had problems until now. As for the CC and the Biowheel, I have always had my trates reading 0..
 
That's the thing, kremit. The biowheel and crushed coral will result in increased nitrates *over time*. They are fine in the beginning....time is your enemy with those things when it comes to nitrates.

That's why I asked the question in the first place. Most of the time, when people's tanks are going along and then begin to develop nitrate problems, it's because of either media in the tank, or crushed coral, or both.

You can turn the other cheek and battle nitrates forever, or deal with the problem. Your choice.

Only trying to help you identify and solve the problem.....
Tracy
 
I never had the bio-wheel in my reef, only in my SA Cichlid tank and my trates have always been thru the roof on that tank.

I have tried removing the bio-balls from the reef tank and going with LR instead. It's only been a week so far, so I don't know how much the bio balls were contributing to elevated nitrates.
 
Tracy - I know, I hope you didn't think I was turning the other cheek or not considering your advice, thank you for that. I do not want to turn the other cheek, or battle the problem, so what should I do? I am considering a canister filter or maybe the LR route. Which would you suggest? Anyone? I just need solutions, or suggestions. As for the CC, there is very fine sand 1:1 mixed with CC so I dont have a clue as to how I would ever get it out. What if I bought two large bags of Live Sand and lay it down on top of the existing substrate? Do you think that would work? Another cycle would be fine if its ok, I am adding much new LR anyway and so I expect another cycle before I add ANYTHING. Let me know, thanks all!
 
Just remove sections at a time and use a H0B filter with carbon in between. And readd about the same.If your adding Base sand there will be no cycle.
But may not cure the main problem as my brother has a great reef tank in CC.
Its about controll,the more you have the better.From flow to water cource to maintnace and water changes to testing to stocking and feeding and amount of LR and LR placement .If you have total control then no other media wil be needed.I use a HOB filter for extra ammonia control and debris that my goby kicks up at times. There is no one way to control any problem its the tools in harmony that really do it.

A good pic of the tank would really help as a picture is well you know.
 
Demon -

I will get a picture of the tank up tomorrow as the lights are off now and the corals are all "hiding"...I have some pics of the tank as it used to exist but not at it's present state. I will def. post one though, other pics are in my photo gallery. SO, do you think using a cup to remove it would be fine? Maybe take a pitcher full, and add a pitcher full? Once every couple of days? The good thing I like about CC is that Coralline seems to grow on it, the bad part about the fine sand is that it can instantly cloud up the tank for days. I hate that stuff, but its almost too late to get it all out.

What is a HIB filter? As for flow, it seems to have enough flow, when I feed frozen Mysis or other frozen foods, I warm it up in a cup, then dump the thawed stuff in. The entire tank is evenly distributed with the Mysis within a minute or less, that seems good to me. Maybe not?
 
HOB filter is a hang on back filter.Something with a crbon filter.Its a great add on and will help clear tank while your changing.I would remove all the CC first and pitcher sounds like to much mb half a pitcher everyday.Then monitor your tank readings and whene all readings are level then star adding the SB about the same rate would be fine.

A SB will cause higher nitrates then CC and you wont see the effects for months or yrs.Be sure to get some sand sifting CUC in there.Wait about 3 or 4 weeks monitoring readings and then start adding CUC in little bunches. A sand sifting goby is the best if your tank is big enough and the rocks are secure enough.

If i was you i would try and control the problem at hand as to not pass on to new substrate. Solving may take just as long and in my opinion the sand is a better look and gives way to more interesting stock.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

G
Back after 20 years - cycling advice
Replies
4
Views
171
Guygettnby
Guygettnby
A
Please help reef tank
Replies
2
Views
697
SantaMonica
S
A
First SPS coral. Is this bleaching?
Replies
6
Views
610
apavlik2
A
D
Help with new tank cycling
Replies
12
Views
1K
wvned
wvned
R
How is my chemistry looking?
Replies
2
Views
238
ReefKG
ReefKG
Back
Top