Hospital tank questions

otrlynn

Active member
I have recently taken over maintaining a 30 gallon marine tank from my college bound son. We carefully relocated the tank about 6 weeks ago, maintaining stock and live rock in a large bin, rinsing substrate in salt water, cleaning tank w/fresh water (no chemicals). Relocated tank was refilled w/approx 50% old water, 50% new. Prior to the move, the tank contained a spotted hawkfish and a blue chromis as well as a starfish, about 5 small snails, and about 5 small crabs. If I remember correctly there had been a few more additions of fish when the tank was under his care, but none survived. I attributed fish deaths at that time to a poorly maintained tank and do not remember any specific symptoms of dying fish.

Approximately 3 weeks after we relocated the tank, and after making sure that tank parameters were where they should be, I added a tomato clown. It appeared to adjust well to the tank and began eating well after a day or two in the tank, did not seem to be getting chased around by the chromis. About five days later it developed a whitish/grayish haze along one side which started in a small area and spread. There were no visable spots, just a haze. Along one side a disruption/shallow ulceration of the scales became visable and the fish died shortly thereafter. After making sure tank parameters were good (they were) I decided to try another fish from another source, thinking perhaps the first fish was unhealthy when purchased. I added a coral beauty angelfish. It appeared very healthy and ate well for about 5-6 days, then developed what appeared to be the same grayish film or haze on its body, starting around the top of the head and spreading. I died about 3 days after the onset of the film. I was not aware of increased respiration rate of either fish, but I could have missed it.

After doing what research I could, and posting a message on another marine forum, it seems like the best guess is that the fish both died from marine velvet. I am left with the conclusion that the parasite that causes velvet resides in my tank and for some reason has not affected the original hawkfish and chromis, who have been in the tank for at least a year. Around the time that I added the tomato clown, I also added an anemone, mushroom and leather coral and some halimeda. These all seem to be doing okay, though from additional reading I am now aware how difficult it is to keep anemones long-term, and wish that I had received different info from the LFS when I bought it. Anyway it appears that the only way to rid the display tank of the velvet parasite is to let it run fallow for 6-8 weeks, perhaps raising the tank temp. gradually and slightly.

I need help regarding how to set up a hospital tank for the hawkfish and chromis. What I have been advised so far is to run it bare-bottom with some clean PVC pipe for the fish to shelter in. I have an old 15 gallon FW tank I can use for this purpose. I have a filter (not the biowheel type) and heater. My question is whether to fill it, at least partly, with water from my old tank, or start with new water and try to adjust the parameters to the old tank. Also, what do I do about returning the fish to the main tank after the 6-8 weeks? Could they be carriers of the velvet parasite even though they are unaffected? Do I treat them w/copper even though they don't appear sick? Please forgive the length of this post. If my thinking seems faulty anywhere along the course of this message please let me know. Tank parameters are as follows:

30 gallons
40 lbs. live rock
2 Penguin Biowheel 150s
powerhead (don't know type)
temp. 78-80
Nitrate 20
Nitrite 0
Alkalinity between 180 and 300, appears closer to 300
pH between 7.9 and 8.4
Ammonia 0

I had slowly added some marine buffer about 2 weeks ago becuse the pH seemed a little low, but I did not know whether to add more because the addition brought the alkalinity up to 300 though it appears to have dropped a little.

Thank you for any and all help. I am on a steep learning curve here. Lynn
 
If the water has velvet in it that will tranfer it to the QT. I would use new water as a safety procedure. The qt won't have a biofilter so have water ready for changes. Ammonia will build up fast especialy if you feed. Inverts don't carry ich generally. You can't use copper with inverts.
 
Treat fish?

Treat fish?

Assuming that my 2 fish in the hospital tank never show any signs of disease, do I treat them anyway before placing them back in the display tank at the end of the 6 weeks period? Does it appear that the correct diagnosis for the clown and the coral beauty that died is marine velvet, based upon the symptoms described in my earlier post? Thanks for any and all help. Lynn
 
It's hard to give you an exact diagnosis without seeing the fish. If the fish in QT show no signs of disease don't treat.
 
I'm still dithering around about this hospital tank. Main question remains whether to use some water from the main tank, and or soak some type of medium in the main tank and transfer it to the hospital tank, so that there is some biofilter transferred to the hospital tank. I could also use a small piece of live rock for this purpose, then discard rather than putting back in the main tank. I know I run the risk of transferring the marine velvet to the new tank, but I was thinking that I should treat for Velvet anyway before I place the fish back in the main tank. I had received conflicting advice re this last statement, ranging from the above "if the fish in QT show no sign of disease don't treat to", "no harm in treating them just to be sure". Going to get this tank set up in the next two days....
 
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