Alright, so my whole weekend was spent setting up my new 90 gallon tank. After spending many hours getting my plumbing just how I wanted it and glueing it all in place, last night it was time to turn on the tank..and wouldn't you know, leaks! There are about 3 spots in the pvc that are leaking and then both my bulkheads are leaking. Does pvc cement go bad? Had mine for about 8 months.. Ok so what can I do now? Is there a way to fix the leaks without redoing all the plumbing? My poor fish are in a bucket for the 3rd day now, and corals in my holding tanks..gotta figure out something soon...help!
I need help..
- Thread starter jade2122
- Start date
tricky
New member
Most often the bulkhead leaks are caused from overtightening, if it is the gasket leaking. Hand tight is adequate, using a wrench will force the gasket out of place. Do not use silicone on the gasket, it just lubricates the gasket and makes it easier to force out of place. Be sure your gasket is on the flange side, not the nut reguardless of which side faces the water.
As far as repairing the leaks in the cemented joints, there is no 'proper' way to re-cement them. Because there is very little working pressure on the joints, there is a good patch-up method that is quick and easy. Get a stick of epoxy two-part putty that does not have metal content. It is the same stuff that is sold for mounting frags inside your tank. HD, Lowes and Ace all stock it.
It is a quick and effective cure, and your fish will have a smile on their face soon!
As far as repairing the leaks in the cemented joints, there is no 'proper' way to re-cement them. Because there is very little working pressure on the joints, there is a good patch-up method that is quick and easy. Get a stick of epoxy two-part putty that does not have metal content. It is the same stuff that is sold for mounting frags inside your tank. HD, Lowes and Ace all stock it.
It is a quick and effective cure, and your fish will have a smile on their face soon!
Cheekymonkey
Premium Member
Hope that sutff works for you,k good luck Jade.
AquaKnight
Active member
Are the PVC lines removavble? One of my intake lines was leaking when I set up the 125. Thankfully I used unions and just removed it and at the elbow applied a heavy extra top coat of pvc cement at the joint. I held the line at a 45° so the cement could run into the leak and I kept slowly rotating the line. Worked for me. Not sure about if it's a pressurized return line though.
some of it is removable, i also made sure to use plenty of unions and such, i went and bought new pvc cement(i really think mine was bad, had a odd consistency, and bottle said don't use if jellylike and mine definately was thick like jelly of course did't read that til after i was done haha) will just try and reseal everything with new cement, how long does that stuff need to dry before putting back in line?
bkwudzjeep
O|||||||O
If you are going to redo it, and you may have done this already, make sure to give the pvc a 1/4 turn twist as you slide the pieces together.....it compensates for any possible missed spots on the pvc.
I learned this after my first pvc experience......and after the leaks.
Good luck!
I learned this after my first pvc experience......and after the leaks.
Good luck!
JUICE!
Premium Member
I can't remember the dry time on the epoxy, but let me give you this tip also.....if you go that route.....put a bit of superglue jel on the seam of the pipe, and put a bit on the epoxy before you form it around the pipe....this will help it stick better.
I can see what the dry time is when I get home.....usually 24hours, but it generally sets in far less than that. If you are just patching where it drips slowley, you can fire it up after 2X the cure set time, but if it's a pressurized leak, you'll have to go all the way around the pipe and let it dry the entire cure time.
If that's the case, you'd be better off replacing the joints, as quick fixes don't last very long usually when pressure is involved.
If you have to shut down your filtration for 4 or six hours it shouldn't be a big deal so long as you keep decent water circulation........if you're especially worried about leaving the tank off for a while, a good water change an hour or so in advance won't hurt.
That glue does go bad.....espacially if there's a pinhole in the can or the cap isn't sealed correctly. By the time I use the stuff again.....I generally need a new one.
~D
I can see what the dry time is when I get home.....usually 24hours, but it generally sets in far less than that. If you are just patching where it drips slowley, you can fire it up after 2X the cure set time, but if it's a pressurized leak, you'll have to go all the way around the pipe and let it dry the entire cure time.
If that's the case, you'd be better off replacing the joints, as quick fixes don't last very long usually when pressure is involved.
If you have to shut down your filtration for 4 or six hours it shouldn't be a big deal so long as you keep decent water circulation........if you're especially worried about leaving the tank off for a while, a good water change an hour or so in advance won't hurt.
That glue does go bad.....espacially if there's a pinhole in the can or the cap isn't sealed correctly. By the time I use the stuff again.....I generally need a new one.
~D
