Ich help

[thommyboy12183]

I had an issue with my Hillo tang what i thought was Ich at first but was not sure so i moved him to QT and started treating with kordon copper-aid. It is hard to tell how he is doing, but since treatment his color has faded but i have not seen dots.

Now my real question. Since i moved the Hippo out my fairy wrasse has white dots on fins and bi-colored blenny may be flashing. I do not have space in my QT/HT as it is only a 10g and i barely had space for that. I have 3 anemone, 3 shrimps, 1 star, 1 brittle seastar and a bunch of hermits and snails.

Is there anything to try that is reef safe? Or should i just prepare to lose all fish then let tank lay dorment for a few weeks while hopefully ich dies off from no fish host then restart?

I am using kordon ich attack(reef safe non copper) in my DT with skimmer turned off and carbon filter removed.

Since i have more money invested currently in inverts than fosh financially anything non reef safe is out of the question, but at same time i do not want to lose my fish. All fish in DT are eating swimming and ACTing fine.

Thank you for any help/support/etc.

 

[Brieninsac]

Sounds like you're going to need to go fallow. Ich in your DT is not going to go away on its own.

 

[thommyboy12183]

As i figured and there is no reef safe effective treatment?

 

[thommyboy12183]

Also can inverts host ich? Can a second/third fosh be added to a HT tank mod-treatment?

How long after last visible signs(last white spots or i lose last fish) of ich can i assume i am ich free?

 

[foshizzle]

thommy,
check out advanced aquarist ich articles

 

[foshizzle]

I just a lost kole tang to ich without any other fish showing symptoms my SPS 120. I'm going with a 10 week fallow schedule in my display. Still not sure how to handle my "infected" mandarin and radiant wrasse. It seems Coppersafe is safe for most/all fish?

 

[thommyboy12183]

Sorry to hear that foshizzle on ur kole.

Most stuff i read is the life cycle can be 8 weeks after last signs of outbreak was not sure if you had an opinion of time with no copper treatment post last visible signs.

 

[n3now]

As i figured and there is no reef safe effective treatment?

I ran a course of kick-ick and it seemed to work. It's reef safe. 1-liter treated my 75 reef without I'll effect.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

 

[Mishri]

Sorry to hear that foshizzle on ur kole.

Most stuff i read is the life cycle can be 8 weeks after last signs of outbreak was not sure if you had an opinion of time with no copper treatment post last visible signs.

They attach to the fish from the water, then for 2-12 days they remain on the fish, then they fall off and remain dormant for 3-72 days and multiply, then hatch and do it all over again.

If you have any fish in that water during those 90 days they could be infected without showing any signs as they can attach in the gills, and then the life cycle starts all over again even without symptoms.. so then when you add a new stressed out fish, it's weakened and the ich can attach all over it's body instead of just the gills... and usually your other fish can get stressed and also start showing signs..

(or the new fish brought it in with it).

Basically, you need to treat all the fish, there is no reef safe treatment. Ich that has fallen off the fish can be on any hard surface so you need to leave your tank without fish for 72-90 days.

Then you need to use a treatment, either Tank Transfer Method (can be done with 5 gallon buckets) or Chloroquine Phosphate. Cupramine is the safest copper to use, but I still don't like using it as it is very hard on the fish If you put "reef safe" copper in your tank, it isn't copper and it wont work. The other thing you can try is Hyposalinity.. I put them in order of safety/effectiveness IMO..

At some point you'll need to treat the ich and leave the tank empty.. otherwise you'll just expose all of your new fish to it.

edit: and don't waste any time/money on kick-ick... n3now probably just isn't seeing any ich right now.. fish can live with it without showing any symptoms for a long time.

 

[thommyboy12183]

Mishri,

Thank you for you help on the matter. As fish would need to be out of the display for 72-90 days. What is the correct tank to hold all fish short term. Assuming a 55G tank that has 25 Inches worth of fish(i get it that is not the best way to calculate) as a 25 inch ray isnt good in a 55G tank.

But 2 occ Clown(each about 1.5-2 inches), 1 bicolored blenny(2.5 inches), 1 fairy wrasse(2.5 inches), 1 yellow tang (2 inches), 1 hippo tang(3 inches).

Both the hippo and yellow tang are still very small. I found out after that they both require bigger tanks (90G minimum if not more).

So to move all fish to a HT tank what size is needed. I set up an emergency 10G for the Hippo tang with a heater, power heat, and filter(with filter floss no carbon). With a piece of PVC for housing and decorative gravel on the base of the tank. Clearly all my fish cannot sustain in a 10G for 72 days so what would i need? Thank You