Ick elimination, corals, rocks, inverts, fish

[staplesofficewr]

So I am sold on the TT method, but I am curious about the above mentioned.
I am moving everything from my 34 gallon to my new 90. I plan to move all the rock / coral I am keeping to the 90, and then start the "90 day" timer to allow the ick in the rock, coral bases, etc to die off - allow the tank to go fallow. about 70 days in, I will move my fish into QT and do the TT method followed up with some parasite treatment PraziPro. This should net me a 90 reef that is ick free.

All new fish will be TT and Prazi'ed.
All coral will be dipped - Will that prevent transfer of ick or do I need to TT the corals and inverts too? I know ick cant LIVE on coral or inverts, but I bet they can be carriers of the cysts...

thoughts please and appreciated!

 

[staplesofficewr]

Ich not ick

 

[HumbleFish]

I don't quite understand. If I were in your shoes, I would:

1. Move all rock/corals/inverts from the 34 gal into the 90. Leave the 90 gal completely fishless for 72 days.

2. Immediately begin TT on all fish that are in the 34 gal.

3. Once TT is complete, move all fish into a permanent QT for further observation until the 72 day fallow period is up in the 90 gal. You can re-use the 34 gal for this purpose so long as everything has been thoroughly cleaned/sterilized beforehand. Just don't re-use anything but the tank & equipment.

 

[staplesofficewr]

I don't quite understand. If I were in your shoes, I would:

1. Move all rock/corals/inverts from the 34 gal into the 90. Leave the 90 gal completely fishless for 72 days.

2. Immediately begin TT on all fish that are in the 34 gal.

3. Once TT is complete, move all fish into a permanent QT for further observation until the 72 day fallow period is up in the 90 gal. You can re-use the 34 gal for this purpose so long as everything has been thoroughly cleaned/sterilized beforehand. Just don't re-use anything but the tank & equipment.

1) I was going to do 90 days, but 72 is better.
2) I could do that, but there is only one fish going into the 90, its a purple firefish. TT takes 12 days plus the Prozi treatment. I figured I would wait till around day 60 or so of the 90 fallow period, then do the TT. Once I remove the firefish, the remaining fish, rock and coral are going to a friends.

My concerns are more directed at new arrivals for the 90 after all this work. I know fish can carry ich, so the TT is a no brainer plus the followup QT. But what about coral and inverts? They can carry ich cysts as well, attached to their hard... parts.... Coral I can dip and I presume that dip handles the ich cysts? what about inverts?

 

[hvacman250]

You should do tank transfer when you begin your fallow period. Use the remaining days to OBSERVE fish in the QT you will use in the future.

All future corals and inverts need to be QT'd for 72 days to guarantee ich is not transferred. This is extreme, but the only way to be sure.

I have a 29 gallon fish QT and a 20 gallon coral/invert QT.

 

[HumbleFish]

1) I was going to do 90 days, but 72 is better.

Actually, 90 days is better. I misunderstood what you were trying to say.

2) I could do that, but there is only one fish going into the 90, its a purple firefish. TT takes 12 days plus the Prozi treatment. I figured I would wait till around day 60 or so of the 90 fallow period, then do the TT. Once I remove the firefish, the remaining fish, rock and coral are going to a friends.

You want to do TT sooner rather than later. Nothing is 100% or foolproof. So, observation time after treatment has completed is always desirable just in case additional symptoms surface. FWIW; you can combine Prazi treatment with TT. Just dose Prazi on transfers 2 & 4.

My concerns are more directed at new arrivals for the 90 after all this work. I know fish can carry ich, so the TT is a no brainer plus the followup QT. But what about coral and inverts? They can carry ich cysts as well, attached to their hard... parts.... Coral I can dip and I presume that dip handles the ich cysts? what about inverts?

No coral dip has been proven effective against Ich and other fish diseases (such as flukes). The only way to get close to 100% is to QT all corals/inverts for 72 days in a fishless coral/invert QT. Yes, it has gotten that crazy.

 

[zeebies]

I keep a coral/rock/invert tank continuously running. I add things in 12 week cycles then move to the DT. If I see a "must have" I'll get it but the clock starts over.

 

[staplesofficewr]

I'm going to need more house!

OK, so I got the cycles down, thanks all.

Filtration on Fish TT / QT: I read that the TT method for fish is heater and circulation - no filter - only prime or equivalent. After the TT time frame, I can add a sterilized hob filter to the fish QT to make the 72 day run. I wont add a light and just let ambient do the job.

Filtration on invert / coral: Standard HOB all the time, heater, lights.....:angryfire: I just did RapidLED retro for my 90. I have two spare LDD drivers and a spare 0-10v ouput to drive them. I could run a cable over and allow my Apex to control lighting on that tank...I suppose the light has to be suitable for whatever coral I am Qting...My 90 has 60 3 watt crees, the dimmable kit from Rapid with a few extra...How many would you recommend for a 20 QT?

thanks again

 

[staplesofficewr]

Bump - any input on filtration of these QTs?

 

[Deinonych]

I keep a coral/rock/invert tank continuously running. I add things in 12 week cycles then move to the DT. If I see a "must have" I'll get it but the clock starts over.

+1

I do the same.

 

[Spar]

Bump - any input on filtration of these QTs?

i just do water changes and have good results. in my fish QT i only have an airstone. in my coral/invert QT i only have a MJ600 powerhead and live rock.

you dont need to over complicate QT's.

 

[staplesofficewr]

thanks!