Ideal alkalinity level?

mattgumaer

New member
I am a relative noob but think I have have 'control' over my calcium and alkalinity levels. My alkalinity is now consistently at 8.0 dKh through dosing two part. Is this the best number or within the best range for color and/or growth?

Matt
 
I keep mine at 8.4 , but I think between 7-10 should be ok. I've seen great sps tank with lower kh.
 
I am a relative noob but think I have have 'control' over my calcium and alkalinity levels. My alkalinity is now consistently at 8.0 dKh through dosing two part. Is this the best number or within the best range for color and/or growth?

Matt


8-9 dKh with a corresponding 420-430ppm calcium
 
Thanks. From what I've read at least, it seems like the trend not too long ago was to run in a really high range (9-11) but that more recently, the consensus seems to be lower than that, particularly if one is more partial to color than sheer growth. Maybe I'll bump mine a little both to see if it has any impact on growth/color, but also to give me a little cushion from dropping below 8 if consumption picks up and I don't catch it for a little while.

Matt
 
I don't carbon dose or use biopellets. I do run carbon and gfo. Sometimes, if I don't catch my DI resin crapping out, I'll get some relatively high phosphates in the .12 range in my DT from auto topping off with high phosphate water. If I change the DI resin and GFO to reduce phosphates, it seems like sometimes the coral don't like it (I don't know whether its the rapid swing or the absolute amount). I'm relatively new to reef tanks and on the fence about how 'nutrient poor' I should be trying to run my system.

My system, in general is a standard 180 gallon (upgraded from a 90 which was set up for a little over a year). The 180 has been up for a couple of months. I have three Radion Pros over the tank and a 40 breeder for a sump with an old Reef Octopus xs200 in the first chamber, a refugium with chaeto in the second and an Eheim 1262 return pump, carbon and gfo reactors running in the third chamber. I also use BRS dosing pumps to incrementally dose calcium and alkalinity over the day. Finally, I have two MP 40s providing flow in the DT set for 90% reefcrest during the day.

My bioload used to be reasonably light for the size of the tank but, with the addition of 6 anthias (3 Bartletts and 3 Lyretails about a month ago) bioload and feeding has picked up recently. I generally feeding frozen (a mix of Rod's and cyclopeeze) 2x/day. Three or four days a week I'll also put in a small fresh littleneck clam for my copperband butterflyfish. Other tank inhabitants include a foxface, a yellow clown goby, a fairy wrasse, a flasher wrasse, and a pair of percula clowns, a mandarin and a goby/shrimp pair that I rarely see.

The tank is mixed in terms of coral with a growing emphasis on sps and acros in particular. I'm generally happy with how everything is doing with a couple of exceptions: 1) polyp extension isn't great, at least during the day; and 2) my ORA 'plum crazy' acro has stayed more brown than purple for several months despite being placed relatively high in the tank.

Matt
 
Rsaha,

I hear what you're saying. When I started, I was shooting for that range. After I started reading more on sps tanks (probably coupled with my need to tweak things) I've raised my alkalinity. The problem is that I've changed so many things, it's difficult to correlate any coral changes directly to the increase in alkalinity. I can't honestly say things are the same, better or worse because of the change.

Matt
 
I am targeting 8.0. Have been in the upper 7's as I get things dialed in. Growth has been fine so far. Target for calcium is 450.
 
I like keeping mine around 8.0-8.5 dKh. With hobby grade test kits you should expect at least 0.4-0.5 dKh error. Also expect some user error whether that comes in seeing a color change on the titration, getting the exact measure of liquids each time, etc.

The real key is repeatability. I test Alk every day when I go home for lunch and if I'm super rushed I'll skip it and do it the next day but every time I test I'm between 8.2-8.5 dKh. If something takes a growth spurt it might dip to 7.7-7.8 dKh but I'll just bump up my setpoint on my doser.
 
I think that alk at 8-9 works the best. but I would say that better coloration can happen at higher alk levels. The main reason for originally lowering the alk on SPS tanks years ago was that there was less incidents of RTN with the alk at a lower level.
 
...so you are seeing quite the range. If you can keep it super stable guaranteed, then I shoot for in the 7s. If not, then closer to 9 is better so that it can wiggle a little if your dosing method has some ups and downs.

I keep mine about 7.4-7.6, but my CaRx is really good at doing this.
 
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I keep mine about 7.4-7.6, but my CaRx is really good at doing this.

Man that's great you can keep it there. I've never felt my tank looked as good when I let it get in the low 7's. So I always go for 8-9 so if it ever dips a little I don't hit those lower alk levels. I also find it very difficult to keep it that low if you do lots of water changes, as so many salt mixes have such high levels of alk.
 
Man that's great you can keep it there. I've never felt my tank looked as good when I let it get in the low 7's. So I always go for 8-9 so if it ever dips a little I don't hit those lower alk levels. I also find it very difficult to keep it that low if you do lots of water changes, as so many salt mixes have such high levels of alk.

You can use 1/11000th of Muratic acid by volume to lower the alk in your salt mix 2.8 dkh. I use 8ml with my IO mix and it lowers to 7.6.
 
You can use 1/11000th of Muratic acid by volume to lower the alk in your salt mix 2.8 dkh. I use 8ml with my IO mix and it lowers to 7.6.

what? That I did not know. It doesn't muck with anything else? So you are changing about 23 gallons when you do a water change?
 
44 gallons with a full bag of IO. Around 9.0 when mixed and then 7.4 after I add the muratic. It works with my salfert test kits. Sometimes, I add a ML, or two, more.

From a RHF post years ago that I saved:
Yes, you just add the acid. Be very careful with straight muriatic acid. It can easily burn you, especially your eyes.

The "acidity" (that being essentially negative alkalinity) of muriatic acid straight from the bottle is about 11,000 meq/L.

So adding 1/11,000 of the water volume as this acid will drop alkalinity by 1 meq/l (2.8 dKH).


You need to mix and aerate the water before you use it to get the CO2 out and get the PH back up.
 
That's good stuff. I will try that.

Completely off topic, but why are you using IO? I moved away from it years ago because I had to add calcium and magnesium to it because it was so deficient. After a while I felt it was just too much messing with it when I could just buy a different brand that I didn't have to add stuff to. Last time I checked I still thought it was low in those areas?
 
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