Tomoko Schum
New member
CRA used to use Salifert NO3 test kit, but I think they are using API tes kit nowadays, which is very inaccurate for low range NO3 testing.
Tomoko
Tomoko
I'm at a loss!!!
- Thread starter Allen77
- Start date
The0wn4g3
New member
I'd bet the test kit was off, too. I've used hagen for years for nitrate, nitrite, and ammonia. I'm no expert on test kits, but they've always been consistent for me. I like to test twice, to make sure it's consistent. When I test CA and ALK, if the first 2 tests aren't consistent, I test a third time and average them.
Nitrate or not, I'd keep up the water changes as much as possible. The more you do the faster the nitrate will drop and the hair algae will die.
Good luck.
Nitrate or not, I'd keep up the water changes as much as possible. The more you do the faster the nitrate will drop and the hair algae will die.
Good luck.
Tomoko Schum
New member
API NO3 test kit is accurate for high NO3 levels. It is quite iffy for NO3 level below 10 ppm. It works well enough for my FW planted tank where I keep my nitrate to be around 10 to 15 ppm (fertilizer for my plants.) It may be accurate enough if you are trying to keep the level down around 20 ppm in a gold fish tank or a fish only tank with big eaters, but for a reef tank, you know we try to keep it as close to zero as possible. I find Salifert easy to use and quite accurate for a low range: 0 - 10 ppm. SeaTest is fine, too.
With that said, you can just go ahead and do the water change and not worry about nitrate level at this point. 20 ppm is not lethal to your fish or coral. I would concentrate more on balancing alkalinity and calcium levels. Your tank is still not balanced well. I recommend that you shoot for alkalinity of 8 to 10 dkH and calcium around 400 - 450 ppm (340 is below the natural seawater level.) Specific gravity should be about 1.025.
Have you seen this article before? It's a good article for new reefers. It discusses the water quality levels that you should shoot for.
Tomoko
With that said, you can just go ahead and do the water change and not worry about nitrate level at this point. 20 ppm is not lethal to your fish or coral. I would concentrate more on balancing alkalinity and calcium levels. Your tank is still not balanced well. I recommend that you shoot for alkalinity of 8 to 10 dkH and calcium around 400 - 450 ppm (340 is below the natural seawater level.) Specific gravity should be about 1.025.
Have you seen this article before? It's a good article for new reefers. It discusses the water quality levels that you should shoot for.
Tomoko
Update and question
Update and question
Thanks again Tomoko.
Now that I have used the API nitrate test kit I completely understand what you are saying about the inaccuracy below 10ppm. I could not locate a salifert N03 test kit locally. I am ordering one.
I have done a few water changes and here are the results of the last one. ( Be aware that these nitrate test were with API....the salifert is coming)
10/1 - 10 Gallon Water change
10/1 - Remove bio balls
10/2 - PH 7.8
kh 8
Salinity 1.022
Calcium 400
Nitrate 0
10/5 - Add chemical to raise ph and kh
10/6 - PH 8.2
kh 10
Salinity 1.022
Calcium 380
Nitrate 20
10/6 Added calcium.
It seems that I am getting my ph and kh in line. I am trying to raise my Salinity by adding salt water when I top off. Now that the nitrate is back to 20ppm (assuming 20 is accurate) it seems that it is time for another water change. That seems pretty quick after only 5 days from a 10 gallon change. Between 10/1 and 10/6 I only feed once. I only feed a little bit since I only have one fish. Does this mean there is possibly some kind of build up left in one of the back chambers of the biocube?
Update and question
Thanks again Tomoko.
Now that I have used the API nitrate test kit I completely understand what you are saying about the inaccuracy below 10ppm. I could not locate a salifert N03 test kit locally. I am ordering one.
I have done a few water changes and here are the results of the last one. ( Be aware that these nitrate test were with API....the salifert is coming)
10/1 - 10 Gallon Water change
10/1 - Remove bio balls
10/2 - PH 7.8
kh 8
Salinity 1.022
Calcium 400
Nitrate 0
10/5 - Add chemical to raise ph and kh
10/6 - PH 8.2
kh 10
Salinity 1.022
Calcium 380
Nitrate 20
10/6 Added calcium.
It seems that I am getting my ph and kh in line. I am trying to raise my Salinity by adding salt water when I top off. Now that the nitrate is back to 20ppm (assuming 20 is accurate) it seems that it is time for another water change. That seems pretty quick after only 5 days from a 10 gallon change. Between 10/1 and 10/6 I only feed once. I only feed a little bit since I only have one fish. Does this mean there is possibly some kind of build up left in one of the back chambers of the biocube?
Tomoko Schum
New member
Since your bio load is not high, I suspect that you have some build-up of detritus somewhere or you are overfeeding. A jump to 20ppm in 5 days after a 10 gallon water change to 29 gallon tank is rather substantial. What and how much do you feed your clownfish? A small amount of flake and pellet food can add quite a bit of nutrients in water. If you do not have any macroalgae in your tank, I recommend that you add some macroalgae to your tank or install a refugium to the sump area or the back of your aquarium.
Tomoko
Tomoko
