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JBJ 28 Gallon Nano Owners Club
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
sl-atl
Member
Good luck! I think knowing the source of the problem is most of the battle.
I had a pencil urchin that was really tough on the algae, but moved it out of the DT since it also was very effective at re-arranging the rock work! I could actually see the white trail it left behind as it grazed across the rocks.
I had a pencil urchin that was really tough on the algae, but moved it out of the DT since it also was very effective at re-arranging the rock work! I could actually see the white trail it left behind as it grazed across the rocks.
SlvrSurfRidr
aka: coraltopia
cheers to the double split!
super six 5
New member
The addition of the Vortech MP20 has helped me a bunch. I'm seeing less algae and my skimmer seems to be pulling more garbage from the water. 
This is just a comment on my latest upgrade. I recently purchased a 1/10th jbj chiller along with a aquac remora with a 1200. Since then I noticed my factory pumps working with less pressure so I now upgraded the factory 2 powerheads to two maxijet 1200's and also added a maxijet 1200 with the suregrip inside the bottom rear of the tank and in my opinion it is almost perfect flow, by the way I also took out the wavemaker so all the pumps run constantly and my tank looks so much cleaner in just one week and the corals have started to open up more even.
Nitrate Problem
Nitrate Problem
Hey guys -- New to RC and this thread. Read the first 50 pages or so and have been impressed with the level of expertise, results and most importantly the helpfulness of the posters. So, I've decided to seek help here. I've had my 28 HQI for about a month. I bought it from another hobbyist and it was "established". I took his tank, water, live rock and about two inches of live sand. When I set it up at home, I did a 50% water change and ammonia, PH, nitrite were all OK. Nitrates were high, but I figured they would eventually come down. I began to stock it with a cleaning crew, more live rock, a couple of fish and some small frags (all over about a month's time). I've made about five or six 20% water changes over that month and nitrates are still through the roof! The livestock seems fine and even thriving, but these nitrate levels are a constant worry. I'm beginning to suspect the sand bed is the culprit cause I can't think of any other reason my frequent water changes aren't lowering nitrates. I'm thinking of establishing a refug with chaeto in my center compartment and upgrading my standard skimmer. I've also thought that I may have to take out the sand. Any thoughts from some of you more experienced reefers? Sorry for the long post.
G
Nitrate Problem
Hey guys -- New to RC and this thread. Read the first 50 pages or so and have been impressed with the level of expertise, results and most importantly the helpfulness of the posters. So, I've decided to seek help here. I've had my 28 HQI for about a month. I bought it from another hobbyist and it was "established". I took his tank, water, live rock and about two inches of live sand. When I set it up at home, I did a 50% water change and ammonia, PH, nitrite were all OK. Nitrates were high, but I figured they would eventually come down. I began to stock it with a cleaning crew, more live rock, a couple of fish and some small frags (all over about a month's time). I've made about five or six 20% water changes over that month and nitrates are still through the roof! The livestock seems fine and even thriving, but these nitrate levels are a constant worry. I'm beginning to suspect the sand bed is the culprit cause I can't think of any other reason my frequent water changes aren't lowering nitrates. I'm thinking of establishing a refug with chaeto in my center compartment and upgrading my standard skimmer. I've also thought that I may have to take out the sand. Any thoughts from some of you more experienced reefers? Sorry for the long post.
G
Exactly how high are your nitrates?
Your sand bed could be the problem. They are supposed to help with nitrates but the stirring up from the move may have released nitrates into the water. Plus, I'm sure there was some die off of stuff on the live rock, causing a mini cycle in the aquarium. I have never been a fan of sand beds. I used to run bare bottom in the 90's before it became more popular and they were always successful. I currently have a very shallow sand bed for the look right now which I regularly siphon with a gravel cleaner during water changes.
Sand beds require frequent stirring by snails and other creatures for them to be successful.
I would suggest continuing the water changes, removing some sand slowly with each change. Make sure there is nothing dead or areas collecting dirt in the tank or in the filter compartment (eg under live rock (blow out with turkey baster), dirty sponges in the back, etc.). Also, try to add a powerhead or two in the display for more flow to keep thinks suspended. Consider adding the refugium as you are doing or a better skimmer.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.
Your sand bed could be the problem. They are supposed to help with nitrates but the stirring up from the move may have released nitrates into the water. Plus, I'm sure there was some die off of stuff on the live rock, causing a mini cycle in the aquarium. I have never been a fan of sand beds. I used to run bare bottom in the 90's before it became more popular and they were always successful. I currently have a very shallow sand bed for the look right now which I regularly siphon with a gravel cleaner during water changes.
Sand beds require frequent stirring by snails and other creatures for them to be successful.
I would suggest continuing the water changes, removing some sand slowly with each change. Make sure there is nothing dead or areas collecting dirt in the tank or in the filter compartment (eg under live rock (blow out with turkey baster), dirty sponges in the back, etc.). Also, try to add a powerhead or two in the display for more flow to keep thinks suspended. Consider adding the refugium as you are doing or a better skimmer.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.
Thanks for the quick reply Breeze. My dilemma is that despite the outrages nitrate levels (80 - 100), the livestock seems unaffected and even thriving. I worry about an catastrophic crash though. I have a Diamond Goby who sifts the sand thoroughly and quite a few burrowing snails, so the sand is moved a lot now. I have a Koralia 1 shooting a stream across the tank and thinking of adding a second one (or a mod'd Maxi-Jet 1200) aimed at the back to eliminate any dead spots. I'm using the stock return pumps and a Maxi-Jet 1200 to power the chiller, so flow seems adequate. Adding a refug with chaeto and a better skimmer (may opt for the HOB refug/skimmer) should help. Removing or partially removing the sand is an option, but I'm hesitant to do that right away cause of the stress to the livestock, especially the Diamond, and cause it's a lot of work. At this point and as long as the livestock seem fine, maybe I should continue with the water changes, the mentioned mods and keep hoping for better nitrate levels. I just don't want the entire tank to crash. Thoughts? Thanks in advance.
G
G
If everything is doing well, I wouldn't make any sudden changes. You would be more likely to precipitate a crash that way. I think you are right, cont the water changes and add the refugium/skimmer.
Are you having algae outbreaks? Are you sure the nitrates are really that high? Have you had someone else confirm it with another test?
Are you having algae outbreaks? Are you sure the nitrates are really that high? Have you had someone else confirm it with another test?
I've got some algae, but seems normal -- nothing the various snails and crabs can't handle. The thought did cross my mind that perhaps the nitrate test kit was faulty. I'm using an API Master Test Kit, but I got it from the guy I bought the cube from, so don't really know how old it is or other things that may effect it's accuracy. I'm going to buy some test strips to double check, or take a sample to the LFS. I agree that it's best not to make any sudden and profound changes. Guess I'll go slow (as long as things are OK otherwise) and stay the course and hope for the best. Thanks again for listening and your advise.
G
G
Chemistry Guy
New member
Aeration without skimmer?
Aeration without skimmer?
I'm proud to say that I am a new member of the HQI nano-cube club!
I was wondering about foregoing the skimmer all-together like some of you are doing. Do you worry about the lack of aeration?
Aeration without skimmer?
I'm proud to say that I am a new member of the HQI nano-cube club!
I was wondering about foregoing the skimmer all-together like some of you are doing. Do you worry about the lack of aeration?
sl-atl
Member
ibarrag, I would bet that your kit is the problem since your livestock is doing so well. I had a false-positive problem with an ammonia test kit- caused some unnecessary heartburn!
Chem. Guy, what livestock are you keeping? If you have SPS or a large bioload I wouldn't forgo a skimmer- just my .02.
Chem. Guy, what livestock are you keeping? If you have SPS or a large bioload I wouldn't forgo a skimmer- just my .02.
sl-atl, thanks for your input. I forgot to mention that I did a test, using the same kit, on a batch of new water I bought at the LFS before I used it to do a 25% water change. The test showed zero nitrates in the new water. I'm still not convinced I'm not getting a false-positive though, and am going to get the test strips to do a quick verification test. Meanwhile, I did a 25% water change yesterday and nitrates are still through the roof
G
G
Chemistry Guy
New member
Thanks for the advice sl-atl, I do plan on keeping several SPS, so I'll keep the skimmer in.
Going along with ibarrag's question, how long to test kits generally stay good? I have some that are several years old and it's clear that the chemicals have started crystallizing out of solution. Do you think these can even give me a ball-park figure or just trash them?
Going along with ibarrag's question, how long to test kits generally stay good? I have some that are several years old and it's clear that the chemicals have started crystallizing out of solution. Do you think these can even give me a ball-park figure or just trash them?
kamao, the false wall should come out pretty easy, just take a razor blade and run it along the sides where it is siliconed onto the tank. It should just pull right off. Mine came out when i filled the back up with water a little faster than the front, so i wouldn't think it would take to much.
