judge my plumbing...please

nicolicious

New member
opinions needed...its a 90gallon and ive upgraded the drain to 1 1/4 and the return to a mag 9.5 from a p.o.c. 200 gph generic pump.....not shown is the drain pipe which be run straight down next to the return....ive add 2 unions so i can remove the pump for cleaning, ive got 2 ball valves to slow down the return and to add extra water to the refrigium....what would you change or is it good to glue?

plumbing.jpg
 
looks to me like you didn't use primer... or you're just way neater with it than I've ever been able to do. Hope you used PVC cement
 
its a dry run...

its a dry run...

just checking with the rc people's if there is anything could be done better before i glue....

just wanted to see if all my research was put to good use.
 
Put a valve on the intake of the pump too, other wise your gonna drian to sump onto the floor. The bypass should prob be lower into the tank so theres no splashing
 
dammit

dammit

i knew i forgot something.....that is actually the only part i glued....dammit....
maybe ill find a cap for the inside of the sump and cap it off when i want to
clean the pump ....thats what you mean right?
 
Looks good...the only thing I MIGHT change is avoiding the 90. Two 45s might help alleviate possible problems with microbubbles. The friction loss would be the same (if I understand correctly). I'm currently blaming microbubbles on the 90s in my plumbing...but I could be wrong.

Also, a valve before the pump would be a good idea. That way you could service the pump without draining the sump/tank.

And I agree on dropping the influent pipe to the tank. Get it below water level and you'll have fewer issues. But you'll also end up with it backsiphoning...

I'm assuming this is pressure fit...you haven't glued anything yet. That's why it looks so "neat".
 
Capping off the intake for the pump would work. Flask stopper work well IMO. I'm guessing somewhere between No. 9 and No. 11 sizes.
 
right on

right on

i just used the head loss calculator to see if i flipped the pump to the other side and it saves me about 70gph.... dont know if thats worth having to crawl in there if there is something wrong...

ill have to check into what a flask stopper 9 and 11 means...is that the same as a threaded cap....?

thanks, ill change out the 90's for 45's....
 
A flask stopper is for an Erlenmeyer flask...made of rubber and is for a pressure fit. I may be using the wrong term...but that's what I call them.

Didn't know that your fitting was threaded...that's why I suggested it.

Are you saying that the minimal distance that the water is traveling in your current setup cuts of 70 gph? Wow..that's crazy. I think ease of maintenance is more important in the end...though a 33% decrease is quite a bit.
 
not 33%

not 33%

its from 619gph to 679gph if i flip the plumbing around....its about 11%...is that too much...should i switch the plumbing around?
 
update with plumbing....flow questions...

update with plumbing....flow questions...

well,
i am offically retarted....the original plumbing plans had the pump on backwards...so this morning when i went to plug in the powercord nothing happened....dohh!....so after a little replumbing and adding a ball valve before the first union (oh yea, the sump now does not have to be emptied to do anything to the pump) i finallly got it working semi properly.

here is a photo of the latest rework...
newplumbing.jpg


anyway i feel im getting too much flow bc of the bubbles made by the main drain that end up in the refrigum part....would one of those socks help with that or is there a bigger problem...
i have a 1 1/4 overflow pipe and a 3/4 return.
here is a pic
bubbles.jpg
 
new update on the plumbing....

new update on the plumbing....

here are some pics of updated plumbing
newplumbfullshot.jpg
rightsidenp.jpg
leftsidenp.jpg


what do you all think?

i just need an eaiser way to get the filterbags on and off and finish the refugium buy adding some mud and a light...
 
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