Just finished the DIY ballast mod w/ Pics

funman1

Active member
Here are the pic I promised of the finished DIY Ballast for the nano.
This one is for my wife's tank that will only have seahorses. I plan on doing a ballast kit for mine that will have 3 ballasts in it, and then having 3 lights in my nano ( I have tons of zoos and SPS).

Let me know what you guys think.
What can I say I'm addicted to DIY projects
:)

Drilling for the connector.
1.jpg


Gluing connector in.
2.jpg


Adding DIY ballast and wiring
3.jpg


Almost done, Quarter to show size of unit.
4.jpg


New bulb connector with cat 5 wire running to the ballast
5.jpg


Hey it works!!
6.jpg


Removing the old stock ballast from the hood (white box)
7.jpg


All done and you can see the blue cat 5 running up to the bulb/connector.
8.jpg



Hope you enjoyed.
~Steve~
 
I'd be careful with that Cat5. Solid wire doesn't handle flexing for very long without failure. Otherwise, it looks like a cool little project.

Congrats!
 
Thanks maxed.

Beerguy, it's stranded Cat 5, I thought of that too :)

Justin, "clean meh"? Heheh new word for me :) Thanks for the compiments.

I will have to get crackin on the 3 light mod soon.

For tonight, I have the project of adding a PhosBan reactor to my system. I will try and post pics when I do that too.

~Steve~
 
weren't you doing this mod in order to have a 2nd bulb? Either way I bet the tank runs a lot cooler now.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8046109#post8046109 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by funman1



Justin, "clean meh"? Heheh new word for me :) Thanks for the compiments.


~Steve~

Joo know!
Clean!
Meh main mang!:bum:

Jive talkin wit ya ;)

Sorry , big Al Paccino fan in Scarface:rolleyes:
Ya, Im a dork on many levels!
:lol2:

-Justin
 
Very cool Steve!
Curious why you chose cat5 instead of lighting wire. Is that rated for 115v? I want to upgrade my nano from 24 to 48w and doing the ballast remote like that would give me plenty room.
Do you go to the electronics store near College Oak and Auburn? I thought you said you went to Radio Shack for stuf but this place rocks for geeks. Tons of old recycled computer stuff and stuff for making prototypes.
 
Jordan, Yeah That's the 3 bulb mod coming up in the near future.
I wanted to make sure this would work for a few weeks on a tank that does not really "need" light, before I tear apart my other tank lighting hood beyond repair. So if this continues to work, I will do this to the other tank and add 3 lights. Also I got some parts in to work on the LED lighting system. Still waiting on the LEDs though. Also I found a guy local that will measure LED output for free, so I can test if the LEDs are really what they claim from the manf.

Sheila ( I think?), Cat 5 is what I had, and was small, and cheap. HOH yes do I ever shop at HSC (Halted Ind.) That place is awesome, and most the people that work there know me by name :) I do get some stuff there, but it's kinda far for me, and they don't have any project boxes like Rat Shack, so I still have to go the Rat now and then. ;)

~Steve~
 
Cat5 is pretty small for handling the current surge at (fluorescent) lamp startup. If it doesn't fail from the current it may still be a bit too much reisistance for optimal lamp performance.
 
cat 5

cat 5

I second beerguy and warreng. Be carefull with the cat-5. I was using a heavy gage cable and yet a loose connection on the lower side of your ballast can ruin your setup. This could happen to your fllourescent lighting.

85119power-compact-burned.JPG
 
Yeah I know..
If you saw the wires in a bulb and what wires connect the bulb to the ballast in a twist, it would blow your mind. Granted I'm increasing the distance thus the resistance, but the unlimate downfall of the burned up pic was a loose connection, not the wire it's self. As long as your connections are good and not rubbing against something, you should be fine.
 
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