LED Light Placement
- Thread starter psness
- Start date
Generally no in my experience, but it depends on what lights you’re talking about. If you’re attempting reef lights, many either need the height for proper spread or will get to hot due to not enough air flow.
Your cheap led strips (not designed for reef lightning but adequate for fish only) can usually sit on top of the glass or come with short legs putting them a a little bit off the glass
Your cheap led strips (not designed for reef lightning but adequate for fish only) can usually sit on top of the glass or come with short legs putting them a a little bit off the glass
psness
New member
Thanks. I want to get away from the cheap strip lights that I've had for a long time on my old tank but don't want to hang or suspend something. I thought about placing two parallel pieces of wood that would extend from left to right maybe 1"x1" and would go under the front and rear of the light box. Would allow for air movement and also provide support for weight distribution of the fixture to the sides of the tank since the fixture I'm considering weighs 7 lbs (Phlizon either 20" or 28" for a new 29g tank).
Are you looking to keep corals?
I’m not sure what your overall budget is, but take a look at ReefBreeders. Their lights are designed for corals and come with the tall legs so you don’t have to hang it.
Also many brands have tank mounts you can use in place of hanging (SmatFarm, Noopsyche, Kessil, etc.).
I have no experience with the phlizon, but a quick look, I’d probably try to do 2inches if possible. Also, if keeping coral, you’ll need to have it turned down for par reasons.
I’m not sure what your overall budget is, but take a look at ReefBreeders. Their lights are designed for corals and come with the tall legs so you don’t have to hang it.
Also many brands have tank mounts you can use in place of hanging (SmatFarm, Noopsyche, Kessil, etc.).
I have no experience with the phlizon, but a quick look, I’d probably try to do 2inches if possible. Also, if keeping coral, you’ll need to have it turned down for par reasons.
oreo57
Well-known member
So a black box.
Keep in mind listed wattage isn't real wattage.
55w on blue channel 55 on white in reality.
Also the closer to the surface the more disco effects.
You would benefit from removing all the lenses.
Point is the geometry just favors those lights many inches above a tank.
You may be better off increasing the budget,
Catch is what tanks does the mount fit? Rimmed tanks can be problematic,
I can attest to the SmatFarm only to the extent of the old mount working on a 32 gallon Biocube rim (on the back). That said, there is a newer mount that I have no experience with
psness
New member
Thanks. I just asked Smatfarm the lumens on the G5, as I've read lumens and PAR are more important than wattage. Also, I've always had glass covers on my tanks and have had fish jump out even while feeding when the front of the lid was open. How do you rectify this with an open tank?
So as long as they are kept clean, glass lids will only reduce par by roughly 10% on average. The space in the back (if you have that plastic piece for cords), should be enough if you cut a hole out of it.
The key is as long as it’s truly glass and not plexi or plastic glass. Those can significantly reduce par based on my understanding
Many people also switch over glass lids to mesh (or if cheap like me - egg crate).
I have my smatfarm over my wife’s anemone tank and have no issues. I don’t know the lumens or par but there’s a lot of guys on R2R that have these lights as well on their tanks
The key is as long as it’s truly glass and not plexi or plastic glass. Those can significantly reduce par based on my understanding
Many people also switch over glass lids to mesh (or if cheap like me - egg crate).
I have my smatfarm over my wife’s anemone tank and have no issues. I don’t know the lumens or par but there’s a lot of guys on R2R that have these lights as well on their tanks
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