LED spotlight DIY

[Chrisrush]

Hi All,
I want to add a few LED (multichip) spotlights to my new tank. My new tank is 72x42x30" and I will be re-using my ATi PM LED Hybrid but I'll need some extra light on the ends as the current fixture is only 48" long and the tank is 72".

I would like to DIY a setup as I don't see anything on the market that will work out.

I know Kessil makes a few spotlights but I would rather have more control over the light than what Kessil offers. I have seen the Celestial spotlight but I would like something with a little more power than 35w.

http://premiumaquatics.com/aquatic-supplies/CV-CV-MAX-C35F.html

Any ideas?

 

[mcgyvr]

What sort of control are you needing?
What color LED's?
Power level?

Can't get much easier than a 50W multichip LED, slapped on a duron heatsink w/fan powered by a meanwell LPF driver with potentiometer for dimming..

 

[Chrisrush]

What sort of control are you needing?
What color LED's?
Power level?

Can't get much easier than a 50W multichip LED, slapped on a duron heatsink w/fan powered by a meanwell LPF driver with potentiometer for dimming..

I'd like to interface with my profilux but really a StormX platform is sufficent.

I would like full spectrum LED.

50w would suffice.

I'll go look into the duron heatsink. I haven't heard much of those.

Thanks

 

[mcgyvr]

fairly sure profilux has a 10V analog output for dimming so that could easily dim a meanwell LPF driver (they also accept pwm and potentiometer.. )

Duron is just a cheap heatsink/fan combo from older computers that works great with 50W LEDS.. you can pick one up for $5 or less http://www.mpja.com/Duron_Athlon-Socket-A-CPU-Heatsink-Fan/productinfo/17045 HK/#
Just power the fan (or multiples) with a cheap 12V ac/dc adapter and drill/tap to mount the LED to the heatsink. 2 part thermal adhesive alone should work just fine to but I always screw them down just in case.

 

[Chrisrush]

fairly sure profilux has a 10V analog output for dimming so that could easily dim a meanwell LPF driver (they also accept pwm and potentiometer.. )

Duron is just a cheap heatsink/fan combo from older computers that works great with 50W LEDS.. you can pick one up for $5 or less http://www.mpja.com/Duron_Athlon-Socket-A-CPU-Heatsink-Fan/productinfo/17045 HK/#
Just power the fan (or multiples) with a cheap 12V ac/dc adapter and drill/tap to mount the LED to the heatsink. 2 part thermal adhesive alone should work just fine to but I always screw them down just in case.

Yeah, it can control 0-10v analog. I believe that will work.

Got any suggestions on a full spectrum 50w multichip LED?

I will pick up a few Durons, and thermal paste.

Also, how many LPFs would I need if I were to run 4-50w multichips? I figure I could run 2 50w LEDs in the front and 2 in the back.

Thanks again.

 

[zachts]

I'd shy away from the ebay multi chips, just cause they are inconsistent and the color tends to suck. look into any of the other multi chip platforms out there:

DIY with Radion pucks
http://www.reefll.com/
Rapid LED pucks
the Lumia
a cluster of three ups from Steves LED
a simple "evil cluster" of bridgelux vero and Luxeon k or luxeon m emiters.
even a www.buildmyled.com strip or two front to back on each end.

all would be far better than any of the 50watt multi chips, you don't need a cannon persay just a linear front to back array of multi chips with optics.

 

[Chrisrush]

I'd shy away from the ebay multi chips, just cause they are inconsistent and the color tends to suck. look into any of the other multi chip platforms out there:

DIY with Radion pucks
http://www.reefll.com/
Rapid LED pucks
the Lumia
a cluster of three ups from Steves LED
a simple "evil cluster" of bridgelux vero and Luxeon k or luxeon m emiters.
even a www.buildmyled.com strip or two front to back on each end.

all would be far better than any of the 50watt multi chips, you don't need a cannon persay just a linear front to back array of multi chips with optics.

Thanks Zachts. I'll start looking into those options as well. Seems a bit complicated with all the components, etc. Might just be easier to buy a complete fixture (if I could find one that fit the criteria).

 

[mcgyvr]

Personally I'd think the spread from a 48" fixture would cover the extra 1' at each end anyways so I don't think you even need anything else.

 

[Chrisrush]

Personally I'd think the spread from a 48" fixture would cover the extra 1' at each end anyways so I don't think you even need anything else.

True, but it is always better to have more light than less. I guess we will see how things look when the tank is transferred.