Looking for advise on Ick treatment method

inteliport

New member
We have our first breakout of Ick which started sometime during the weekend of January 7, 2006.

First method to correct was to call LFS, returned from the LFS our Blond Naso was dead. ( not happy ) Started treatment as instructed with Kick-Ick, some improvements spots gone. (thinking we solved it NOT)

Week 2 this weekend, spots returned, started deeper research, found out Kick-Ick will not correct the under lying issue.

So on here we are ready to do it the right way and wanted some advise on the method we will start on Monday.

The tanks is a 220 gal, live rock, coral substrate, with protein skimmer.
Tank has been up for 3 years, records maintained daily.

Current conditions infected tank:
Temp 78-80 degrees, SG 1.023, PH 8.2, ALk Normal, NA3 0.25, NO2 0, N03 40.

Current conditions QT: Crushed coral bottom (to be removed)
Temp 80 degrees, SG 1.022, PH 8.2, NH3 0, N02 0, N03 0

Planned Treatment: QT period 30 days (yes/no?)

1. Drain tank and place water in 3 40 gal trash cans, removing all rock as we go and placing live rock in these 40 gal TC.

2. Remove all fish and place them in 75 gal QT, adding a new wet/dry filter AquaClear Pro 75 or a Amiracle SL-15 Hang on before fish go into QT. Remove crushed coral before placing fish in tank, maybe add power head also.

The reason for this is that we currently have a FilStar XP-1 and I do not think that it will be good enough for the time period required.

Another idea would be just to use a bio-wheel instead of the above dry/wet filter (any thoughts) As I'm concerned about any medication being removed.

3. Remove all coral substrate, and then perform any maintenance on tank that we have been putting off.

4. Replace substrate with 1"-2" of live sand instead of crushed coral.

5. Clean live rock throughly which has yet to be done in last three years some cleaning but not has much.

6. Replace all water or use the same water from the 3 barrels and then replace the rest with new water. All water will be now treated with new UV lights.

QT Treatment for fish: First let me say that I have read Steven Pro article "Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans" Part 1 and 2 but I'm not sure which which method to use as the treatment in the QT and also as a on going preventative.

7. QT Over put all fish in display tank.

Thanks in advance for reading this and as well as any feedback.

- Cheers
 
Looking for question marks:

The QT period is as long as it is necessary to kill the infection AND verify that the fish are free of the infection. Usually, this is 6 weeks after you've seen the last signs of the disease.

Comments:
Unsure how many and the size of fish we're talking about, so I'm unsure if the QT size is appropriate.

You want to maintain a biological filter in the QT, OR use chemical filtration to remove ammonia and nitrites, OR do a lot of large water changes. Your choice (if you have choices).

Once fish are out of the display, the Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) will die off within 8 weeks. No worry about that. So any maintenance, cleaning, etc. after the fish are gone from the display is your option.

UV is helpful but unnecessary. (See above)

Not knowing the exact kinds of fish involved, I can't recommend the best procedure. Choose the cure based upon the type of fish you have and their tolerance to the treatment.

Another article worth reading:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-10/sp/feature/index.htm
Following the above guidance will prevent this in the future. But for now read this article for tips on setting up the QT.

Good luck! :rollface:
 
Lee,

Thanks for your reply, we moved the fish today and we still maintained the treatment with Kick-Ick as of yesterday. Since I was going to move them to the QT anyway I have opt not to use a copper treatment.

But will treat the QT tank with small amount of garlic and maybe continue with the Kick-Ick. Since the fish are now out of the display tank in a clean QT with just a glass bottom, I might also elect not to continue the Kick-Ick.

We only have 6 fish in this tank Was 7 but as I mentioned above the Blond Naso did die.

Very strange, thinking back on events, I'm sure that the Marine Ick was not the cause, because we jumped on this issue as soon as we noticed it and left for the LFS within 2 hours 6 hours total from first indication of ick and when I got back from the LFS he was gone.

It almost appeared as though he was poisoned some how, rapid breathing, no food intake all within 12-24 hours very sick.

We do have two new fish that we introduced into the tank that I found out after the fact that their bite is poisons.

And I'm thinking that this could be the cause., but I guess we will never know for sure.

The link you supplied is very helpful, and good to see that I have taken some correct steps so far.

The extra information you supplied was very clear and to the point, thank you for that.

We have installed a bio wheel and the FilStar XP-1 system on the QT and all readings were the same as mentioned in my org post.

I'll post some pictures in the morning, and update some comments here, thanks again.

- Cheers
 
The correct diagnosis is the first step. I'm relieved to hear that it wasn't Marine Ich.

Good luck! :)
 
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