First and foremost, I will be doing a coast to coast overflow with beananimal drainage system. As you can see in the previous pics, the tank is already partially drilled. The original owner had a glass holes overflow (left hole - 1" bulkhead) and return (right hole - 3/4" bulkhead). The plan here is to bore another two 1" holes to incorporate the bean animal overflow. I know a guy that works with acrylic, and would plan on having him build me an overflow to spec before the move. I am also considering just using two sheets of glass and making my own overflow. Essentially I want whatever will look best. Suggestions are always welcome!
I did have a questions about the way glass-holes do their overflows. Do they utilize a special bulkhead or something? I guess I don't understand how there isn't the potential to cause a leak between the acrylic and the glass. I am probably over thinking this. This is essentially what got me considering glass over acrylic (logistics) in the first place.
As for the skimmer, I am undecided whether I will use it or go with something else. Cones seem to be the new "thing" in the hobby, but I am not sure how much improved performance I would get. Supposed to be a decent skimmer and is certainly over-sized for the system. I didn't get a pic of it, but the power cord is ungodly long. The thing has to be 10+ feet. Not sure what the thought process on that was, but it is the first aquarium product I have seen with such a long cord. I will have to add a pic to the thread. Maybe I can have some of you over for some double dutch?
Future Plans
Sump
Assuming I don't break the tank during the drilling (knock on wood) I would also have my acrylics friend make me a sump. I am not 100% decided on how that would work as there isn't exactly a lot of room to fit a sump back there. If I can take the bottom off the stand without damaging it (anyone with experience please chine in) I would plan on doing that, as I could fit a bigger sump in that way. Once the sump is back in place I would re-install the bottom. I haven't measured anything yet, but I think I could basically duplicate the footprint of the tank itself, if I wanted to, for the sump area.
Flow
My BC29 had an MP10wES on it and I plan to go with that again. Part of me regrets selling it, but it was a package deal, so c'est la vie! I am undecided on a return. That will be based on what is decided for the sump. I prefer external pumps, if at all possible, but I am not sure I will have the room, and if I did, whether or not a small enough pump even exists. It would be a waste to have a dialed back pump in terms of energy expenses.
Lighting
While I was certainly happy with my DIY setup over the BC29, the saving grace was being able to mount everything in the stock hood. I wouldn't begin to trust my skills at making a presentable DIY LED fixture. For such a small tank, I am considering just picking up an AI SOL or AI SOL nano. I am leaning towards the full sized SOL as the nano seems to only have a 15" spread. The standard sized light can also always be dialed back, so I wouldn't have to worry about TOO much light. That said, if the nano is good enough, I would love to hear opinions!
Controller
I have had the Reefkeeper before, but am now considering an Apex, mostly because of all the added modules (such as ecotech, AI, etc.) that are available. I would like to be able to monitor my tank when I am away, as well. Nothing is set in stone yet, so I have some time to decide.
Auto Top-Off
Had a Tunze Osmolator and couldn't be happier. Don't think I will fix what isn't broken here!
Dosing
I was doing kalk with the Osmolator on my previous system. While I didn't have a problem with it, I also didn't have a reactor. Basically just did kalk in the auto top-off. I am considering two-part with a doser. This is one part of the build I am not necessarily leaning one way or the other. I suppose I didn't mention that the tank will be mostly SPS with some select LPS, so some form of calcium dosing will be a must. Suggestion welcome, as always!
