mag 12 failure!

JeffersonReef

New member
Hey all. I was going out of town, so decided to hook my mag 12 to a UPC (just in case of a power outtage while im gone), and when I plugged it back into the outlet, the pump failed! Didnt start! Had to unplug and plug back in several times.... in the meantime, about 3-4 gallons of water overflowed out of sump. Anyone know why this happened? Ive heard of it happening to other reefers before, but is it normal, or do i need to replace the pump?

Thanks for the info!
 
It may just needs to be cleaned. Take it apart and soak the impeller in some vinegar, clean the internals and reassemble. Sometimes grit can get into the pump and keeps it from restarting.

The bigger question is why your sump is overflowing.
 
i have had my (bought used) mag 12 running for over 2 years, never cleaning it and it still runs strong.
 
if your sump overflows when you turn the power off you need to drill a hole in your return for a siphon break. if youve already done that...you are filling the system too much. to see the maximum your system can handle, with the pump off, fill the sump to the max. turn on the pump. once the water level in the display and the sump stabilizes, mark the water level in the sump. that is your max fill line. if you fill more than that, youre going to overflow everytime you shut off the pump.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8166580#post8166580 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rscott76
if your sump overflows when you turn the power off you need to drill a hole in your return for a siphon break. if youve already done that...you are filling the system too much. to see the maximum your system can handle, with the pump off, fill the sump to the max. turn on the pump. once the water level in the display and the sump stabilizes, mark the water level in the sump. that is your max fill line. if you fill more than that, youre going to overflow everytime you shut off the pump.

We all learn this from experience. Eh Ron? LOL:rolleyes: :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8166580#post8166580 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rscott76
if your sump overflows when you turn the power off you need to drill a hole in your return for a siphon break. if youve already done that...you are filling the system too much. to see the maximum your system can handle, with the pump off, fill the sump to the max. turn on the pump. once the water level in the display and the sump stabilizes, mark the water level in the sump. that is your max fill line. if you fill more than that, youre going to overflow everytime you shut off the pump.

Rscott, thanks for that. Ur right. I have read that before. I figured that since my returns arent that deep in the tank, drillin a hole wasnt nescessary. Guess I was wrong! :)

How big should the hole I drill be? Anyone?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8167123#post8167123 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by My F1sh R D34D!
We all learn this from experience. Eh Ron? LOL:rolleyes: :D

LOL... [sarcastic]So I am not the first one to have gallons and gallons of water overflow into my living room?[/sarcastic] LMAO.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8167123#post8167123 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by My F1sh R D34D!
We all learn this from experience. Eh Ron? LOL:rolleyes: :D

hey screw you sam i had a seam in my sump bust and NOT anything else:cool:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8171096#post8171096 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rscott76
hey screw you sam i had a seam in my sump bust and NOT anything else:cool:

Ah crud I thought u were in the club. I had over 45g of SW on my carpet over a year ago. Had to replace the whole damn thing:lol:
 
you should have a check valve after the return pump and dont buy the cheapy one, get the wye checkvalve.
 
When you soak the impeller make sure you soak it lokng enough so the impeller spinns freely on the shaft. The amount of calcium you have in you tank will control how long pumps can go with out cleaning.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8171219#post8171219 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hitekfreak
you should have a check valve after the return pump and dont buy the cheapy one, get the wye checkvalve.

check valves are no good. Unless your willing to replace a 30$ checkvalve every 3 months or less. The spring in them will get gunky and wont even shut when water comes back down on a powerloss.

Best thing to do drill a small hole (I prefere above the water line) on each return so air can get in and break the siphon. I learned that the hard way as well.

I should have listened when they told me all this stuff. But its a lesson learned kinda thing in this hobby for me as Im too noob.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8171482#post8171482 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by My F1sh R D34D!
check valves are no good. Unless your willing to replace a 30$ checkvalve every 3 months or less. The spring in them will get gunky and wont even shut when water comes back down on a powerloss.

Best thing to do drill a small hole (I prefere above the water line) on each return so air can get in and break the siphon. I learned that the hard way as well.

I should have listened when they told me all this stuff. But its a lesson learned kinda thing in this hobby for me as Im too noob.

this is the checkvalves Im talking about.
http://www.savko.com/PartList.asp?pgid=1&ptid=3&pid=2
 
Hitek how do those work? Do they have a flapper like the ordinary check valves? Ive seen them before but never knew they were CV's.
 
they dont have the flapper but rather a block. when the pump is shut, the block stop the water coming down. the best thing is you can take it apart to clean.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8171437#post8171437 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by laverda
When you soak the impeller make sure you soak it lokng enough so the impeller spinns freely on the shaft. The amount of calcium you have in you tank will control how long pumps can go with out cleaning.

That's the key, I like to remove the shaft just to make sure the guides are clean inside. I've found that using a Ca reactor along with dosing kalk pretty much makes most pumps with ceramic shafts and guides uselss. Mags and Seios are the worst of the bunch. I wouldn't use a Mag or Seio in my tank.

FWIW, I do use small Mag pumps on my Ca reactors, I have for years. I've never had one leak or lockup on me when running external, don't tell anyone but I never clean em either, never. I wonder if the added heat reduces build up?
 
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