Massive tank in "Study" phase - Need Input

A

attaboy

New member
All -

Been working on specs for my new tank build and would really like input on the dimensions. I'm currently looking at 78.5" x 87" x 34". The 78.5" is the viewing pane and would fit perfectly in a built in bookcase I have in the garage. 87" front to back is to go for that extreme depth look like Steve Weast's tank. 34" deep was because I thought it would look cool :)

Now I built a wood frame model of the tank to see how I would handle routine maintenance and access in the middle is nearly impossible. Just can't reach.

Any ideas on how to get to the middle of the tank?
Anyone have experience with long tongs being used to place SPS?
While I don't mind getting in the tank it wouldn't be a great day to day solution. Also would probably require stools of some sort to get up and over the side with the acrylice support at the top.
Thoughts on how to clean the coralline off the front pane with it being 34" deep?

I am working with a structural enginner to beef up the foundation so this project isn't yet in full swing, but I need to solve access issues before I move forward.

Thank you in advance for your ideas.
 
Crazy thought-how 'bout a "doughnut" in the center so you could maybe climb under and up literally standing in the center of the tank? I saw one like this at the Orlando Science museum and albeit, it's not the volume your talking but it looked really cool and would allow you to better access the tank.
 
I would build scaffolding over the tank so that you could walk/crawl over it and work on it that way. With a snorkel and goggles you can hang over and work on it as necessary.
 
Instead of physically extending the width to 7.25', what if you cut this down to 4' and used a shadow box to create the illusion of depth like euromomtx's tank? I think serpentman's suggestion of a scaffold surround is a pretty smart way to operate, too.

Dave.M
 
I think a scaffolding type bridge that spans the tank and is either on rolling wheels so you can move it front to back, or on rails mounted to the ceiling. Or if it came down too it, you could basically lay a piece of plywood/ 2x4's on top of the tank so you can crawl out on them or laydown to reach in.

Another option is to do like Steve has, excpet the outside part where you walk around - make it kind of a raised floor, so from the outside the tank only seems to be like 12" deep. This doesn't seem like it would really solve the problem though.

or.. you could go full blown... make a scaffold that attaches to the ceiling on both ends and spans the tank, and goes forward/backward when you press a button. Then you could lay down on it, which would let you reach nearly to the bottom, and use your toe to press the button so you can reposition yourself without having to climb up and down...
 
I say build a removable bridge and have all your lighting on a rail that can move it far enough that its completely out of the way. Mask and snorkel and your good to go.
 
Someone said it, but I would also suggest a snorkel. At this size, it is the only thing that seems logical. And wouldn't it be cool to say, "Hey, sorry I missed your call, I was snorkeling in my reef tank."
 
like said, make a scaffolding on rolers (like on bumpercars sortof) so you can move the scaffolding out of the way when not working on the tank but it can move freely when you want to work on the tank.

dave.m has a good idea, just go 4' and do a shadow box. i find the boxes hard to create (from reading) but itd be worth it if you made it. i also like the 'donut hole' idea.
 
IMO,

The tank needs to be much much taller. If you are going to have a tank that is almost 8 ft front to back it would look silly with it only being 37 inches tall.
 
RcToners said:
IMO,

The tank needs to be much much taller. If you are going to have a tank that is almost 8 ft front to back it would look silly with it only being 37 inches tall.
Click to expand...

Not necessarily. If only viewed from the one side, then its the width that needs to be in a good proportion to the height. I think having the tank deeper than it is wide is a great idea and have wanted to do that for some time. A shadow box doesn't even come close to creating the same look as a true deep tank.

One thing you should do is read Steve West's write up on aquascaping and forced perspective, so that you cam maximize the look and make it really stunning.
 
Tank

Tank

Thanks all for the advice. I think I have found an unexpected solution to my problem. I called the person who will make the tank and if I get 1" acrylic on the top I will be able to lay on the bracing. He said it will be so strong you could pick the tank up by it (if you had a crane).

I'll lay on the top bracing if / when I need to reach deep down.
 
t

t

I have no idea either. He says he uses a kent scraper, but with all of that light I don't see how you could keep up with the coralline deep down. Those scrapers on extended handles don't give you enough leverage to clean in my experience on my 300g.
 
Trained chihuahua
chihuahua-scuba-diver.jpg


Dave.M
 
I would definately lay a cat walk or scaffold that is on rollers. I wouldn't want to put any stress on the acrylic. That's just my .02 It can become brittle over time with high intensity lighting.

Why not construct this out of plywood and fiberglass? If there is only one viewing pane, it would be so much cheaper.
 
i would love to have a tank with those dimensions. i have a 48x48x30 cube up and running and am setting up a 130x36x36 inch tank. you keep the front pane clean by using a cleaning magnet. make sure it is framed in so that the edges and bottom have a little hidden so you dont get sand into the magnet and scratch the tank. some hints on maintainence. make sure you build your reef in a stable manner. i would suggest something like sanjay did on his thread building towers and using rod to keep the drilled rock stable. also predrill all the rock with a bit that is slightly larger than a standard frag plug. that makes frag placement easy even if you are using tongs. also make sure you avoid putting anything into the tank that is difficult to controll and will need removal. thing star polyps and xenia for example. finally make sure you document the build and keep us all informed. i can never get too much of big tank build threads.
 
DAHENLEY: I actually have been modeling a lot of my tank off of Steve Weast's design. The reason is that my tank will be an in-wall tank with the actual tank itself sitting in the garage. It's in my 3rd bay which is extended. That is the only place in the house I can fit such a beast. Steve has been awesome in providing guidance.

SKANDERSON: How do you clean your coralline algae? A magnet cleaner won't take that stuff off.

DOGSTAR74: I plan to have all halides (12 of them) over the openings. None will be above the acrylic and I will also have fans. James from Envision assures me that you could pick the tank up for the top bracing (it's a 1,200 lb tank so that's saying something). My small $160 should be no problem laying on there.

I've also made a tweak to my dimensions and am going 38" deep instead of 24". Still waiting for my structural engineer to confirm the foundation & stand design.
 
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