maxijet mod on an aquaclear???

[Ball]

I was planning on a big write up on how to do a good looking housing. I dont have much time currently, but here is a VERY basic step by step how to. The prop assembly isnt covered. I dont have time right now.

I have been running the mod for a few months with no problems. Each put out about 3000 GPH as tested with the bag method. I run 2 in my 75 gallon for around 6000 GPH total. They put out nice flow.

The AC are not as quick to restart as the maxi mods, but they do work. The worst thing about the AC mod is they cant start up a prop with a big pitch. Using the 1.5" great plains prop, they can put out close to 3000 GPH, if you make the housing correctly. You have to make sure you have enough room around the edge of the prop and have enough slots for flow. If you get everything right, you can have a 3000 GPH pump for less than $40. Its not a Tunze, but you can have the same flow for $300 or so less. That will buy you time until you can save for something more robust.

Here is my basic write up on just the housing.

AC housing mod

 

[pheel]

thanks ball,

I ordered the 1.5" great planes prop, I'll give it a try.

 

[ejmeier]

Ball: that was a great write-up on how to make a housing for an AC mod.

Here's one thing that I do though: if you are sure that you won't be re-using the pump as a normal "stock" configuration, then you can just glue the housing on PERMANENTLY.

The beauty of the AC mod is there is no cross-brace needed, and nothing in the front to prevent the propeller from being taken out for cleaning. Basically, you should never even have to remove the guard at all. So why not glue it on with ABS glue? This way a lot of machining is avoided.

I personally have just used an ABS coupler. (1.5" for a AC50 and 2" for an AC70.) Yank the O-ring off, and just glue it right to the body of the pump. All you need to do is cut slots (or use that vent guard thing in the link) and add a stopper. You might also need to grind down the little nubs on the body of the pump with a dremel.

But other than that, you can be a sloppy and crooked as you want. (To an extent.) This is because the guard is independent from the prop alignment.

 

[dngspot]

Does anyone know what the vent guard is normally used for? We do not have a Menards in Kansas. Referring to Ball’s post.

 

[dngspot]

I hate for this post to get lost. It has the potential to be something great. I am still working on my impeller housing. I will not test until I am finished. My intention is to build a unit with out dammaging any part of the original pump. I may decide in the future that I will use the pump in its stock configuration. Attaching the 2 to 1.5 inch pvc reducer is easy it is cutting the vent slots that is difficult. I have a way that has worked on test units but want to make the slots bigger. I will post a pic and decription on how it was done.

David

 

[Rothie]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7768609#post7768609 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dngspot
Does anyone know what the vent guard is normally used for? We do not have a Menards in Kansas. Referring to Ball’s post.

I would also like to know the answer to this
Thanks

 

[dngspot]

I have not tested this housing. I think that will not let enough water through the slots on the side. They are about 1/8 inch opening and spaced 1/4 inch apart.
Take a look and let me know. Again this is my first one. I simply am not satisfied and will be building more. This option does not require cutting the original housing.
David

 

[smjtkj]

Yeah, it is probably going to need more inlet area for water to flow. I think the housing looks really good but the slot area needs to be longer to give more flow. The spacing looks good, just lengthen it and i think you have it whipped!

 

[dngspot]

In this picture you cant see that the slots go to where the reducer turns from 2" to 1.5". Does any one think that this will not be enough for water flow?

 

[dngspot]