Micro bubbles
- Thread starter dave131
- Start date
Likely just a different flow rate - can you adjust with a gate/ball valve? Maybe you can replicate the Iwaki flow enough to return to the prior state. If you have two durso, it is relatively easy to convert to a Herbie style with full siphon.
http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/
http://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/
I put a valve on the discharge of the pump and that helped with the bubbles. One overflow is quiet which has the shorter hose going to the sump the second one is gargling at the end of the hose going into the sump. I've tried multiple tiny holes on the durso no help. Anyone could help me on what I'm doing wrong
Ah, yes - if the two lines are not in the same overflow harder to implement, but technically you could still do it - as long as each weir is able to handle 100% of the flow you have going from the return to sump. This is necessary in case your primary gets clogs - the high safety drain which would be in the second overflow would still be able to hand everything. It would be pretty tricky to implement, since the vertical distances you have to play with would be very unforgiving...
No worries - the challenge is part of the appeal! Stick with it.
Ideally, you would adjust the first overflow with the valve so there is just a tiny trickle coming down the second. Only do this if one overflow can handle all the flow.
The gurgle is most likely because there is intermittently enough water closing and opening the second pipe. If you reduce that enough, increasing the flow on the first overflow, the trickle will come down the second pipe and enter the sump without bubbles. Try different permutations of return outlet above and below water line in sump. It is hard to get absolutely no bubbles without a full siphon.
Another option is to add a baffle to the sump where the return exits - I've attached a photo of the sump design I'm working on - the water enters far right, then has to rise and flow over the first baffle (red) - this allows the bubbles to break at the surface. You can add a baffle to your sump so the retunr outlets are submerged and the water and bubbles have to rise. This is a little more effective against large bubbles than microbubbles. You can also try having your return go right into a filter sock, which will reduce bubbles as well (but will increase maintenance).
Ideally, you would adjust the first overflow with the valve so there is just a tiny trickle coming down the second. Only do this if one overflow can handle all the flow.
The gurgle is most likely because there is intermittently enough water closing and opening the second pipe. If you reduce that enough, increasing the flow on the first overflow, the trickle will come down the second pipe and enter the sump without bubbles. Try different permutations of return outlet above and below water line in sump. It is hard to get absolutely no bubbles without a full siphon.
Another option is to add a baffle to the sump where the return exits - I've attached a photo of the sump design I'm working on - the water enters far right, then has to rise and flow over the first baffle (red) - this allows the bubbles to break at the surface. You can add a baffle to your sump so the retunr outlets are submerged and the water and bubbles have to rise. This is a little more effective against large bubbles than microbubbles. You can also try having your return go right into a filter sock, which will reduce bubbles as well (but will increase maintenance).
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You can just simulate what would happen if one gets blocked. Cap one overflow - wait and see if the water rises too fast. Obviously be ready to remove cap and resume second overflow if needed : ) Like I said, the Herbie method with separate overflows would be really hard to implement, so I would probably advise against it...
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