Multiple CO2 Solenoids?

[ToLearn]

Ok, I could probably ask this in several different forums, but I have an Apex I am plugging them into and I greatly value the opinion of many of the people who frequent this particular forum.

For the first time I have had a CO2 solenoid fail on me. It was used when I bought it so it isn't shocking and everyone has always said they do in time. Question I have is do people use multiple CO2 solenoids in case one fails?

I am thinking of using two in series on a surge strip plugged into outlet 8 of my EB8.

Luckily I have a slow drip rate and the feed pump to the reactor on the EB8 as well, so when the pH finally got too low the CA reactor was essentially cut off and my tank barely noticed. I was alerted right away by the controller and I am thankful I have it.

 

[Deleted member 143833]

I don't and haven't heard of anyone who does. I handle the scenario you mention through a warning email when the PH of the reactor gets too high to tell me C02 is empty or too low, a potential bad valve. I don't know about your setup but in my case I also have the option of turning off the dosing pump that feeds the CA rector; just a thought...

 

[ToLearn]

Yeah I have the feed pump on a EB8 and it cut off the other night when the solenoid first failed and the CO2 got too low. Do you use a peristaltic dosing pump? Ever had a solenoid fail on you?

 

[Deleted member 143833]

I use an LM3 to feed a PF601 but in forever that I have been running CA I've never had a solenoid fail (thinking +10 years easy and more likely +15 years). Actually, I think I'm still using the solenoid from way back today.

I guess they don't make them like they used to

 

[schwaggs]

Are you sure the solenoid failed or was it just stuck. Periodically, my Solenoid will stick in the "on" posiiton. Power cycling solves the problem only to have it occur again a few days later.

Lowering the pressure to the valve to ~20 psi or less solves the sticking valve for me... my solenoid is ~ 7 years old now.

I do the same as Ken and have email notices when pH in the CA reactor gets too high or low...

 

[markviiisvt4]

I use solenoid valves and a diaphram tank for top off duties, kalk control, and a water change set up. 4 valves handle actual control and 2 redundent valves act as a main feed and drain to the tank. I've also been into air ride on trucks and cars for quite a few years wich use solenoid valves for air control (usualy 8) with no redundency. All that being said they rarely permenatly fail. Usualy the pilot orfice gets plugged or the actual valve orfice gets build up on it holding it open. Nothing a quick cleaning won't solve.

 

[markviiisvt4]

Here's a good little write up on cleaning and inspecting your valves.

http://www.s10forum.com/smc-valve-cleaning-how-to

 

[RokleM]

This is more of a general equipment question and not an Apex question...

However, solenoid failure SHOULD not be overly common. In regards to your CO2 question, a solenoid should be used as a secondary backup device, having already set your bubble count as correct as possible. At worst, it sticks on, your alarm goes off, and you melt some media. Not a ton of fun, but it isn't going to crash your tank in 60 seconds either.

ATO however, yes it's not uncommon for people to think about multiple solenoids if you're worried about one failing (especially if it's gravity fed and stopped by a solenoid only). However, again other alternatives should be leveraged. A "high water" alarm, having your gravity fed throttled down via a valve, maintaining enough water so that your ATO functions but not so much that if it all dumps you have a flood or massive change in salinity, etc.

 

[ToLearn]

Are you sure the solenoid failed or was it just stuck. Periodically, my Solenoid will stick in the "on" posiiton. Power cycling solves the problem only to have it occur again a few days later.

Lowering the pressure to the valve to ~20 psi or less solves the sticking valve for me... my solenoid is ~ 7 years old now.

This is exactly what is happening however I am not sure how, or even if I can change my working pressure. It fails to close and then when I turn it on and off a couple of times it beings to open and close like it should only to fail soon after. The company that makes the regulator, ReefFanatic claims the working pressure is preset at that factory. The working pressure is 45psi when it has been on and running and I saw it get up to 60psi when it had been off for a while.(not sure why it increase when I close the tank and turn off the solenoid, I am using a brass check valve)

I haven't been advernturous enough to take it apart all the way and put it back together, but if I can't change the working pressure and the company that claims the pressure is right and it should be working I may have to do that vs just tossing it. I ordered another one regardless. Waiting to hear back from the company.

 

[schwaggs]

Attached is a picture of a common solenoid (this is a Milwaukee Instuments unit that I have). The large black knob (triangular shape in the picture) is the pressure adjustment knob. With the solenoid on (flowing), turn this knob counter-clockwise to lower the pressure output to ~20.

 

[ToLearn]

Yup, found out today that is not present on the ReefFanatic there is what looks to be a nut in place of the knob and it is soldered closed or something. They preset the working pressure and there is no adjusting. According to them I need to open it up and clean it. I will likely install the replacement I got and then play around with the old one when I get a chance to. Both a second reactor and CO2 injection for a planted tank were coming in the future so it wasn't like I wasn't going to buy more solenoids anyways.

Still kind of debating if it is worth installling a second solenoid on the same line. Probably won't, but considering.

Thanks a lot for the help. Greatly appricaite it.