My Neat Nano Reef

[Clownfish 11790]

Hello everybody!

I would just like to announce that I will be starting up a nano reef in the next few months and I would like to ask for all of the help and expertise you can give me.

I have experience with fish in the past. I used to have multiple 10 Gal. tanks, a 55 Gal. Cichlid tank, a goldfish pond, and a 20 Gal. Long Reef. I moved houses a few years ago and had to get rid of all of it, but it is time for me to start it back up!

I would rate myself as moderately informed on the subject. I understand salinity, importance of clean water, live rock, cycling, water flow, amount of fish etc, etc. A little reminder wouldn't hurt every once in a while, but don't feel the need to write a whole paragraph unless you feel I really don't understand something.

So, to get started I will inform you on my current specs.

Tank: I am planning on a 20 Gal Long again.

Light: My older Orbit Light, (2x65 Current USA Orbit Compact Fluorescent Fixture (1x65= Actinic 420nm / 460nm Actinic and 1x65=Dual DayLight 6,700K / 10,000K))

Is this good enough for hard coral?

Filter ? Is the Emperor still good?

Pump ?

Heater ?

Salt ?

Live Rock How many pounds?

Substrate What should I use? Sand? Aragonite?

Hydrometer ?

Protein Skimmer Is it even necessary?

My main problem is that it has been about 5 years since I have had an aquarium and I don't know what is considered top-of-the-line or 'good' anymore (product-wise). If you could help me with any of the question marks that would be great.

I plan on ordering a large chunk of this from www.drsfostersmith.com since my LFS is a total ripoff, so I would like to figure this out somewhat soon.

Cheers!!!

 

[Clownfish 11790]

Thanks guys for all the help! Haha.

I guess I will do my own research. I just figured some of you might know off the top of your head.

More updates later!

 

[sneeze]

You're proposed specs would be good with plenty of water changes, light stocking, with sorties. If you want to go the sps (hard coral), consider a drilled system with sump filtration and metal halide, t5, or led lighting.

 

[Clownfish 11790]

My main problem is that I will be moving to college in a few months and I will have to move my tank a few times in the next year or so. Having a sump or underneath area would just make this more difficult. I am just trying to stick with the single aquarium.

Do you have any suggestions as to where I should go with this?

I plan on just purchasing a 20 Gallon Long (along with filter, heater, etc), so is there anything else you would suggest for this that could work as a sump? (Ex. a DIY modified filter as a refugium?) Could I fit my heater in my filter? Any ideas?

 

[Pumped]

You can try and turn your 20 long into you biocube type of setup. Where a panel splits the tank in the bank. There you can throw in a little skimmer, heater, fuge...

Maybe you should look into bio-pellets. Since you have limited space, that maybe a good filtration choice with a little skimmer.

 

[ange062]

Why not just get an AIO if you are worried about moving it? If you are doing a 20L I think drilled w/ sump and the full setup is the way to go!

 

[Clownfish 11790]

Alrighty, people. I have given this some thought and I've decided to go with the 20g L and use my old Orbit Compact Fluorescent light (2x65). It should do the trick for now and if I want to get a better one later I will.

For the startup I am ordering from DrFostersandSmith:

-Azoo Powerhead Model 600 (for mixing salt in bucket)​

-AquaClear Powerhead Model 20 (old Model 201) w/Rotating Deflector FLO​

-Synthetic Sea Salt Instant Ocean 50 gallon mix (bag)​

-Hydrometer 1.000 to 1.030 specific gravity​

-Emperor BIO-Wheel Powerfilters Emperor 280​

-Caribbean Live Sand Original Grade Substrate 20 lbs​

-Eheim Jager Thermostat Heater 75W​

Any suggestions or anything that is absolutely necessary? I plan on placing another order in a few or so after I set up my tank. I don't want to destroy my bank account at first.

For the second order I am planning to get:

More salt​

Test Kit​

?​

 

[pico-reefer]

I would ditch the hydrometer, go with a refractometer instead, and i would ditch the bio-wheel and maybe go with a ac70 or 110 and mod it for a fuge.

 

[Clownfish 11790]

I would ditch the hydrometer, go with a refractometer instead, and i would ditch the bio-wheel and maybe go with a ac70 or 110 and mod it for a fuge.

Is the refractometer really THAT much better? If it is, which one would you recommend?

I plan on eventually putting a fuge on the back, but I would probably just buy one like this (http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3727+3618&pcatid=3618) so I wouldn't have to worry about the modification of a filter.

 

[pico-reefer]

Yes, its THAT much better. i use a sybon refractometer with good results, but make sure it has the temp. compensating feature.

 

[Gill_bucket]

DON'T but the penguin filter!!! I know that they used to be the best (I have owned many over the years) but the aqua clear is far superior. The aqua clear will move more water and is silent even when you let the water level get low. Plus the aqua clear just looks better especially after time, this is due in large part to the smooth hard plastic it is made of; which can easily be cleaned. The soft black plastic of the penguin will get salt creep that will stain it white in places no matter how hard you try to clean it. I hate to say so many bad things about penguin filters, but they have not changed the design at all in the past ten years.

 

[Gill_bucket]

By penguin I mean Emperor, sorry if I caused confusion.

LOL the name is probably the one thing they have changed in the last ten years.

 

[Gill_bucket]

Is the refractometer really THAT much better? If it is, which one would you recommend?

I plan on eventually putting a fuge on the back, but I would probably just buy one like this (http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3727+3618&pcatid=3618) so I wouldn't have to worry about the modification of a filter.

Any refractometer is a hundred times better than a hydrometer.

I think your money would be better spent on a sump than a hang on the back fuge.

 

[Clownfish 11790]

Thanks, Pico and Gillbucket! I appreciate the advice.

I will now most likely go with the AC and the Refractometer.

I still won't get a sump currently though because I will be moving it a few times and that would just make it even more difficult, plus I would need a place to put the sump and I am not sure where that would even be at college. I'll probably add on a fuge in a few months or so. Just a little bit at a time.

 

[chucktd321]

Dude if you're going to a collge make sure you meet their requirements. For my school no bigger than a one ten gallon tank and no halide lighting.

This is gonna be my third year at school with a tank. And you must considered somethings if you are gonna bring a tank to school.
-what are you going to do with the tank during your week to two week long breaks?
-are you able to get RO/DI, Distilled, or bring a RO pump up so you have a constant source of water?
-Does it get hot where you are going and does your dorm have ac/heat?
-Do you have plan for transporting the tank?
-Sand when moving a tank is the biggest pita to keep undisturbed, are you willing to go BB?
-Is your roomate(s) ok with you having a tank?

Sorry for all these things but there are a lot of things you wanna considered i've moved my tank over ten times now and been through it all with a tank at college. Ask me anything about it and i'll help you out. I really should update my thread on here so you can check it out

 

[Clownfish 11790]

Hey, Chuck! You will be great help to me! Give me any tips you can think of!

Is it absolutely necessary to go BB? My college is only about a 30 min drive and I only plan on bringing it back during winter break and at the end of the year.

My dorm has heating and A/C. I live in a single, so no roomie.

How do you transport your tank?

 

[chucktd321]

No it is not necessary at all to go BB... BUT it'll make transporting much much easier so its something to consider. It also helps you sleep at night since transporting sandbeds can cause spikes in your params if disturbed too much. You can avoid this all pretty much by keeping your sandbed very clean and around an inch deep.

Thats nice you are that close to your school so moving the tank will be much easier. For moving I use 5 gallon buckets and kinda lodge my rocks together so they don't crash around during the trip and then have plastic baggies in the water and then wrap them with blankets when i transfer during the cold. Depending on the amount of rock you have the best way would be to use coolers. and baggies within the coolers. So if you could eyeball how your pieces will fit into your containers before your move that would be helpful. With your tank having sand you'll have to do your best on keeping the sand bed undisturbed. Keep just enough water so it just above the level of sand. if you go bare bottom you can just clean the tank and then put all your equipment in there and it takes up like no room when you are moving

couple things i reccomend...
-ditch the 20L and a 15L same depth and width but shorter and will look a lot nicer with a 24" t5 fixture which i also reccomend.
-I like Aqueon pro heaters and hydor theos (they're some of the smallest by wattage)
-any filter will do but bigger the better and make your own media rack so you can run multiple medias. Aquaclears are awesome but are also overpriced...
-I just made a AC50 into a sweet little fuge (i can send you a link if you wanna see my build )
-Mp10s are to die for! but very pricey, if you wanna save $$$$ do two maxijets
-Any aragronite is fine. Be careful of sugar grain as it can really make a mess also crush coral traps detritus too much
-Im not the biggest fan of IO since it has pretty low calc levels and im not one big on dosing a lot and with a lot of sps i like a higher calcium like reef crystals

Keep with the questions and i'll give you your answers

 

[Clownfish 11790]

Alrighty. Thanks for the help.

I already have my 20gL, so I am stuck with that. I'm pretty sure I can make it work though.

I'm kind of confused with the baggies. Why are they necessary? Is that where you put the fish or what?

I would also rather spend the extra few bucks and get a quality product than sacrifice for less, so I am OK with the AC.

I'm still getting used to the lingo. What is an Mp10?

Is Kent Marine Reef Salt Mix good?

I'm also using my old 2x65 Orbit Compact Fluorescent light for now. Until I can afford a better one.

Also, how much of a hassle is it for you to move your aquarium? Do you move it with the rest of your stuff?

Cheers!:beer:

 

[chucktd321]

I've become a vetran with moving my tank lol i get it down and packed under an hour. but the baggies are used cause you can do half water half air and it cushions delicate stuff like hard coral frags, fish, inverts, etc.

Ecotech Vortech Mp10 is a pump that does wonders lol it is a powerhead with the smallest footprint in our tanks yet is also extremely powerful and controllable. However, if you find even an older one for under 150 considered it a steal.

 

[Clownfish 11790]

Wow. That is a crazy *** pump. Haha. Too expensive for me though.

Do you have a stand you take with you to school too? If not, where do you put your aquarium?