Need advice on swapping out tanks

[bosworth]

I have recently decided to upgrade from my stock AGA 50g to a 70G Tech Series Oceanic. My current tank has been set up for about 18 months and has a shallow sand bed. I'm concerned about moving the sand and distrubing the what has settled into it over the past year and a half.

Currently my system is plumbed into the basement where I have a 55g sump, 30g, frag tank, and a 15g fuge. I can operate the system independently in the basement while im making the change.

My system is a mixed reef whith a heavy SPS population, a clam, 2 shrimp, 1 yellow tang, 2 clowns, 1 mandarin, 1 purple firefish, 1 flame angel, 1 royal gamma, and 4 green reef chromis.

With my current setup I can make and store about 60g of salt water in two Brute cans, sacraficing my RO/DI water can for temporary salt water storage. I've also got about eight 5g buckets ready for the move.

I was also wondering if I should upgrade my lights. I am currently running (2) 150W HQI 14Ks and (2) 75W VHO Super Actinics. I was considering (2) 250W HQIs to replace the 150W units. My new tank will be 25" deep vs my current tank which is only 18" deep.

Please let me know your thoughts.

Thanks,
Brian

 

[serpentman]

IMO, although you can move the sand, I think its best to replace most of the sand with new and seed it with a couple cups of the top layer (1/2-1") of your existing sand.

There is always the risk of stirring up anoxic pockets such as under the rocks that will result in the release of compounds such as hydrogen sulfide, etc. into the water. Again, just my opinion.

As far as the lights go, I think 2x250W would be ideal.

 

[Eggs]

Heard the same thing about stirring up the old sand.
I may upgrade my 55 to a 120 and seem to recall reading somewhere that it's better to replace the sand.

 

[Jetdrvr]

I would go BB and replace the sand with Starboard. I am preparing to do the same exact thing from my 125 to a 210.

 

[oldreefer76]

I would agree on replacing the sand also, I know from first hand experience of reusing sand and it is nothing but trouble in the long run, in fact in a week or so all of that sand is going bye bye and will be going back to BB

I would also say go with the 250w

 

[rj ripetide]

In my experience with moving reef tanks, there has been no problems with moving the sand into the new system...providing that we added new sand to make - up the difference for the larger area. And also used about 50% new salt water in the change over. Just make sure to monitor the water parameters and have saltwater on hand to to water changes if needed. We have experience a rise in nitrates but they have been short lived.
We have even done this in just moving the same system and not increasing the water volume.
**This is just my experience in the past.** (Not hear-say.)
You could also start a deep sand bed in a bucket before the move to help with the nitrates, but this will take about six weeks for the bacteria to mature for this process.
Good luck in what ever you decide to do.

 

[bosworth]

I think I still want to keep some sand in the system. I love the bare bottom idea but I just love the astetic value of sand. If I should replace the sand how much should I keep?

Also, will I expect a mini cycle during the swap out?

Does anyone have recommendations for 250W HQI Ballasts?

 

[serpentman]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11691319#post11691319 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bosworth
If I should replace the sand how much should I keep?

Although I think the benefits of bare bottom are very impressive and possible outweigh sand, I am in agreement. I just like the look of sand. Personally, I would scrape the top 3/4" off the exposed sand from your current tank and transfer 2-3 cups of it to the new tank. As RJ mentioned, you could get away with more, if not all. Personally though, I think its too much to risk.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11691319#post11691319 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bosworth
Also, will I expect a mini cycle during the swap out?

I don't think so. Worst case, you might see a very small one. By minimizing the amount of old sand, I think you greatly reduce the release of harmful compounds and the amount of die off of organisms in the sand itself. Assuming all other parameters remain consistent and your rock stays submerged, I wouldn't expect you'll see much die off.

I would keep some clean SW handy in case you need to do an impromptu water change.

 

[fambrough]

If you had the arrangement, you could always do a major rinse of most of the old sand, keeping a cup or two to reseed. With mature LR and some live sand to reseed, I doubt a small cycle would be much of an issue. However, I have never done this, so its just conjecture.

Another vote for the 250. Like you I have 150 over an 18" deep tank and think it's just adequate. I'm going to 175 or 250 depending on the depth of my next tank.

Please post updates as you move forward. Those tanks look really nice.

 

[bosworth]

As far as the lights go I have to fit things into a custom canopy some I'm going to have to have seperate components. I've been looking on Marine Depot's site and I have decided between PFO or IceCap components. Can someone recommend one over the other They are both coming out to be nearly the same cost at about $735 for (2) 250W Ballasts, Pendants, Bulbs, and Heat Sinks. Or should I be looking at something entirely different from a ballast and pandant combo.

In case someone is interested I will be selling my Current Sunpod shortly after the new gear is installed. Its a 36" Dual 150W Hqi with 14K bulbs, and 18 moon lights (9) White and (9) Blue. I modified the fixture so that it will fit inside a hood over a 36" tank. Basically I chopped the length down a couple of inches. If I showed it to you you couldn't even tell its been modified. The unit is 18 months old and I replaced the bulbs in December. I paid $500.00 for it. $350 and it yours.

 

[Dtip]

That's a really impressive basement system for a 55gal DT. I would think that the relative size and likely stability of stuff down there would be a major factor in keeping any cycling in the new DT as bacteria levels adjust short and mild.