Need help setting up a new tank.

[tprize]

So I have a good friend who bought a 72G Bow front. It's in really good shape, and is pre-drilled. Problem is, is where it's drilled. Now I am a horrible artist, I do video not pictures so please bare with me. I can get real pics of the tank this weekend but I thought I would get the ball rolling. Here is where the bulkheads are located.

This is the back wall of the Bow front

So I have four holes in the back of the tank but no overflow. I would really like to turn one of these into a closed loop but I really have no idea how I should go about making an overflow. Let me know what you guys think. The only Idea I have now is to put a strainer on the top left and bottom right, and lock line returns on the bottom left and top right, then run it through one pump back into the tank making a closed loop. Then just buying a hob overflow box to the sump that way if the power goes there is no flood. Please give me suggestions so I can figure out the best course of action. THANKS!!!!

-Tony

 

[macronut]

Hi Tony,

I've been thinking about your situation and I have a suggestion, but hopefully someone will chime in if I'm incorrect.

I would have the bottom of the tank drilled middle ways along the back side of the tank and install an overflow box. One hole drilled to go to the sump and the other for a return to the display tank. Since the back is already drilled double check that you can drill the bottom of the tank. I'd return the water from the sump to the display tank by coming up from the underneath side of the overflow, like most standard reef ready tanks purchased.

Closed loop: I would then take the bottom left and right holes already drilled and use these for water to be drawn out of the display tank. The close loop returns to the display tank would be at the top left and top right. I don't think you would have any unwanted flooding incase of a power outage this way.

 

[tbittner]

If you don't want to drill anymore holes, I'd build/buy a skimmer box to fit over one of the top holes. Make it in between 1/4 to 1/2 the width of the back. Let the water drain through that one hole to the sump.

Use the other top hole as the return from the sump, I'd use locline and put a Y on it and have two nozzles directed in different directions to get decent flow towards the top. Don't put the loc line much below the surface of the water though so you don't back siphon too much water when the electric goes out.

Then I'd hook a powerful pump up to one of the holes in the bottom as the intake to the pump. I'd run PVC on the inside of the tank from the other bottom hole, make a run of it along the back, install 3/4" T's in it and attach locline nozzles to the T. You'd be able to make some outstanding flow this way.

 

[tprize]

Ok, do you know where you can buy pre molded Skimmer box's that I can silicone to the tank?

 

[macronut]

try this site. http://www.wetdryfilter.com/internal_overflow_boxes.htm

I've not ordered from them and don't know anything about their customer service, but this is what you need. You might give them a try.

If looking locally, you might see meyer plastics http://www.meyerplastics.com/index.html
You can get your acrylic from them Indy to make your own. Not far from Abyss Systems. You might try the Abyss off of Binford Blvd. Paul can make you one.

Hope this helps.

 

[tbittner]

I would tend to make my own with acrylic that I buy at Lowes. It's easy but it isn't. And just because the box would be inside the tank, don't think that if it leaks it's ok, because it's not. You want the box to stop flowing water down to the sump when the water level falls just below the teeth, otherwise, you'll flood your sump.

You could also make one out of a large speciman box. You would drill a hole through it to match the hole in the tank. Then silicone it to the tank, place the bulkhead through both the skimmer box and the tank, and put the nut on the outside to draw everything together tight.